40 S&W cylinder to 38-40?

Not a huge number of Ruger SA's in .40 S&W caliber.
I'd leave any of them, "as shipped". But if I wanted a 38-40 cal cylinder,, I'd opt for a .357 mag cylinder bored out as an addition. Going to ream one anyway,, why not use a more common cylinder & preserve the original one?
 
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Excellent advice from contender!

Plenty of cylinders available at on-line auctions. Just look for one with an overall cyl length as long or longer than your cyl. Too short takes welding to fit to your frame.
 
Also check the gap at the recoil shield. If it's more than .060" it won't headspace on the rim.
 
Quite a cartridge. Converted this .357 to .38-40, a few years ago. A simple conversion, not by one of 'the famous' and no frills, just a great shooter.

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I've dressed it in steel grip frame with steel ejector housing and thinned the grips
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SBH grooved trigger:
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With return spring shelf web contoured to the trigger guard:
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It has the tight chambers, throats and b/c gap on the large Ruger frame that can take advantage of the .38-40 Magnum 'Ruger Only' loads.

.38-40 Magnums and the guns for them by LEE MARTIN
http://www.singleactions.com/files/3840WinchesterArticle.pdf
 
contender said:
Not a huge number of Ruger SA's in .40 S&W caliber.
I'd leave any of them, "as shipped". But if I wanted a 38-40 cal cylinder,, I'd opt for a .357 mag cylinder bored out as an addition. Going to ream one anyway,, why not use a more common cylinder & preserve the original one?
this is good advice!
 
It works great guys we’ve done several I’m actually working on one now. Thanks again, Bobby Tyler
 
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