gobe":3tnx48jq said:
As I've said before on this Forum, I've reloaded tens of thousands of shotgun shells, but am new to handgun cartridge reloading. All the shotshell reloading was on a MEC Grabber (progressive), I'm now loading cartridge ammo on a Dillon 550.
Hi, gobe
Like yourself, I loaded tons of shotshells (almost 200,000?) before ever coming to metallic loading, where I started w/ rifle, then handgun ammo.
At first glance, I'd suggest a progressive press is NOT the best choice for the new handgun loader. But you've already got one, so there's no sense looking back.
Though your progressive experience w/ the shotshells should stand you in good stead, remember that you have a visual indicator of each shell getting its proper powder charge if you watch the wad pressure indicator move as the wad's seated on the powder. That's a good safety check. And, if I remember the Grabber, isn't the charge bar spring loaded in a way it has to be pushed all the way to one side to drop the shot, then it always returns all the way to pick up the next powder charge?
Don't think the 550 is quite that "idiot proof" but it's been a while since I've been up close and personal w/ one, so I could be wrong. Regardless, folks DO come up w/ a variety of "aftermarket" ways to determine if their progressive pistol presses ARE dropping full charges. Some involve physical gizmos added to the press, some involve lights. I'm sure Contender's probably already pointed you in the right direction in that department, or will if you correspond w/ him.
Whatever route you choose, you do want to develop and ALWAYS use some "safety check" system. As you've already experienced enough potential squibs for several 1000s if not 10s of 1000s of rounds, I'm sure your mind's open and hungry to learn how NOT to repeat that experience!
Now, this is a bush league solution, but if you have a digital scale, you can carefully make up, then weigh, a few rounds w/ your particular recipe and record your results in your log book.
Then you can take all your loaded rounds (using THAT recipe, of course!) and weigh them to see if you have any that are obviously "powder challenged." You'll find no two rounds weigh exactly the same, but they'll probably be within a grain or so of each other when all the variables (powder charge, case weight, bullet weight) are figured in, so you SHOULD be able to see which ones are seriously underweight easily enough. It's faster than pulling ALL the suspect rounds apart...
You COULD do the same w/ a balance beam scale, but a cheapo digital (around $30 or so?) makes shorter work of it.
Whatever you do, keep asking questions, and please be as careful as possible!
Rick C