.30 Carbine NM Suggestions, Please

[raf]

Just received 95% Ruger NM .30Carbine revolver. S/N indicates late 1975. $600 out-the-door. Trigger is much nicer than I expected.

Upgrades planned include Hogue grip, XP base pin latch spring, and hopefully the Ruger Vaquero Crescent head ejector rod I have will work. I "may" install a slightly reduced power trigger spring from Wolff. I have the ability to R+R all "drop-in" parts.

Intended use is target range and (hopefully not-needed) personal/home defense.

So, the questions:

1) Base Pins: I see "Old" and "New" OEM Ruger base pins. "Old" having a flange which abuts the frame, "New" being flangeless. Is either one preferable? Stainless or Blued? Have also seen aftermarket base pins. Are any of these worth their price, and if so, which one(s)? It seems some of the aftermarket pins are more easily grasped than the OEM pins, and their shorter length may allow the ejector to more fully eject spent cases. Is this so?

2) Where can I obtain a "Crescent" headed shell ejector rod? I have a Ruger Vaquero crescent-head shell ejector, but the crescent head on it is smaller than I'd prefer. Stainless steel preferred, but I'll take what I can get.

3) Source(s) for "Cammed" ejector rod housings hopefully compatible with above Crescent head shell ejector. Unsure If I want steel or aluminum; barrel is 7-1/2". Currently the revolver has aluminum ejector rod housing, and aluminum grip/backstrap.

4) Suggestions concerning making front sight more visible. I'm reluctant to modify the existing front sight. Rear sight is OEM Ruger adjustable sight. Painting the rear of the front sight is an option; I have the paint.

5) From reading here, I understand that the WCF .32-20, the H+R .32 Mag, and the .327 Fed Mag ctgs can be safely shot in this revolver. Is that correct, and are there any other ctgs suitable for this revolver?

TYVM for reading. Info/suggestions on other "must-do", but reversible mods also requested.

 

[needsmostuff]

First off,,,,, shoot it, shoot it a lot.
That will expose if it has any demons that need to be chased.
Measure the cyl. throats, many are too tight. Slug the bore to check for bore choke by the receiver.
Get set up for reloading! 30 carb. is expensive and NO fun without reloading.
Sound like mundane first steps? Well that's where you START with a new revolver. Find out if you like the gun before you jump into cosmetics.

 

[raf]

Good advice! Advice on dimensions of cyl throats/bore vice barrel will be appreciated! I have Zero problem sending this (unaltered) item back to Ruger if any problems whatsoever are encountered. Been down that road, and returned item was always much improved.

Am an experienced reloader, with .30 Carbine Carbide dies. Have about 2K rds of very well made .30 Carbine ammo made to GI spec. Due to liability issues with handloaded ammo, can't sell/give the ammo away, so this revolver is least-cost alternative for using-up the ammo.

Should mention that I also have a Ruger NM Blackhawk "Convertible" revolver in .45 Long Colt/.45 ACP which I modified to "Bisley" configuration using Ruger parts. I have a "suspicion" that the Hogue grip installed on this revolver will kinda eliminate the need to replace the grip/backstrap on the .30 Carbine revolver with a Bisley unit, but I "might" want to install a Ruger Bisley hammer, since it is (to me) easier and faster to cycle.

Again, as you correctly say, "Early Days" yet. In the unlikely event the revolver needs to be sent back to Ruger, I'm fully aware of Ruger's disdain for user-made mods.

TYVM for perceptive comments!

 

[needsmostuff]

Advice on dimensions of cyl throats/bore vice barrel will be appreciated!

Thing on cyl. throats is they need to be at least .001 bigger than the bore groove and roughly the same as whatever bullet you are using. They also need to be ALL the same size.

I have Zero problem sending this (unaltered) item back to Ruger if any problems whatsoever are encountered. Been down that road, and returned item was always much improved.

Ruger does not really deal with this very well. Their spec. covers a wide +/- range so they seldom acknowledge a problem on cyl. throats.
Much better to send the cyl. to Fermin Garza. (He is rewriteing the book on this stuff.) You will get it back in a week and it will be right. Call him and he will explain the whole thing to you. (361-960-3697)
Spec. for cyl. is .308 which is good for jacketed bullets . I had mine opened to .309 for better cast bullet shooting. There is a whole world of .312 cast bullets made for32 mag/327fed that I run thru a Lee .309 sizing die.

Have about 2K rds of very well made .30 Carbine ammo made to GI spec.

GI spec is not really at its best in a revolver and is where it gets its reputation for LOUD.
Many find more happiness steering closer to revolver ammo than rifle ammo.

I have a "suspicion" that the Hogue grip installed on this revolver will kinda eliminate the need to replace the grip/backstrap on the .30 Carbine revolver with a Bisley unit, but I "might" want to install a Ruger Bisley hammer, since it is (to me) easier and faster to cycle.

30 carb. black hawk has a very MILD recoil. no need to worry about NEEDING more grip, unless you want more.
I popped a super Blackhawk hammer and an old Dragoon grip on one of mine mostly to get a steel grip for a better way to balance the barrel and get more grip, plus I had one.



This one is basically stock just blinged up a little. Dont blame me it mostly came this way,,,,,, but a little worse.



Both of these have cylinder throats at .309 and have had a round of fire lapping to straighten out bore choke . Both now shoot cast VERY well with no leading.
One or the other will probably get a red dot sight on it just for fun.

 

[raf]

Understood that cyl bores differ from "forcing cone" and also from Barrel bore. In my limited experience, usually a .001 step-down, progressively, from cyl bore>forcing cone>barrel bore. Is this correct? Understood that uniformity is KEY. TYVM for contact info for resolving possible issues. Much obliged.

Ammo is what it is, all 2K very carefully-made GI-spec rds of it. I understand (OP) that other caliber revolver rds can be shot, safely, in this revolver. If reloading for this revolver in the future, I would tailor the reloads for it.

For sure, I'll investigate other safe-to-shoot rds for which this revolver is capable of shooting. Never knew about such until I read about it here.

Hogue grip is not because I'm "recoil-sensitive", but to kinda mimic the "Bisley" grip (and hammer) I retro-fitted on my .45 LC/.45 ACP Ruger "Convertible" revolver. I liked both mods much better than OEM. Just personal preference: others will differ.

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum!!!!!!

Ok, you've gotten some good info above on how the gun should perform, and what to do if the chambers in the cylinder need "adjusting." Fermin is excellent. But I'm going to try & answer your numbered questions.

(1) Base pins; You can't use an "Old Model" base pin in a "New Model" gun. A NM has a tip that is necessary for the safety transfer bar. As for the collar,, Most of the NM Ruger factory ones have the collar. But,, many folks like to upgrade their base pins with one from Belt Mountain. They are excellent. I use a #5 Keith type often. If you want one,, I don't think he has a website,, but I do know he uses mail order 7 such. If necessary,, I can see about his contact info.

(2) Not sure if anybody makes a larger Crescent headed style ejector rod for a Ruger. I have a custom made one by a friend,, but it's not much bigger. And no,, he's not making any to sell.

(3) Cammed ER housing. I haven't seen any of those anywhere. I doubt you'll find one.

(4) Sights. The front sight is soldered on,, so modifying it is a custom thing,, other than painting. For the front,,, a base coat of white model paint,, then adding your preferred color over that is what many folks use. No permanent mods to the gun. (If you removed the front,, and soldered on a different one,, it'd need rebluing.)
BUT,,, the rear sight. That is something that CAN be easily changed,, to a style that works MUCH better. Again,, this is a place to where a call to Fermin Garza is in order. He,, along with Ronnie Wells, have designed, developed, and are producing at least (1) different rear sight blade assemblies. The good part,, all you have to do is remove the factory rear BLADE & SPRING only. Then install the Fermin/ Wells rear assy. It's hard to explain all the differences,, but I have some and they WORK!!!!!!!! it goes into the rear sight base's slot,, but fits over & behind the factory base. MUCH better rear sight assy. You can go to RW Grip Frames or Fermin's website to look at them. But a call to Fermin works quite well.

Side note; If you go to Ronnie's website,, you will see a lot of custom grip frames. Another wonderful addition to a good Ruger if so inclined. Different shapes & sizes. Ronnie has bigger hands & as such, decided to build different grip frames to fit other hands. (Not just his hands either.)

(5) Shooting other calibers. In the NM's only,, often folks use 32-20 brass to load & shoot in their carbines. Brass extracts easier, and reloading is easy as well. Yes,, some folks have shot 32-20 & .32 H&R or others in their Ruger .30 Carbine handguns. I always caution against it. Why? Well, a bore diameter on the .30 Carbine is cut for a .308 diameter bullet. The .32's use a .312-.314 bullet. While a .004-.006 diameter difference may not be much to some,, it's not a real good idea in general. I prefer to always be safe,, and use a properly sized bullet to match the bore diameter. Plus,, I cast & powder coat bullets,, and it's a well established fact that the best accuracy & such is achieved when you properly match the bullet to the bore. In a pinch,, and if self defense was the reasoning,, then I'd likely try it if necessary. But you've already mentioned having plenty of .30 Carbine ammo, so why bother?

I hope this all helps you a bit!

 

[raf]

Thanks very much for very helpful response. Am trying to order #5 base pin and base pin latch from mfr, Belt Mountain via e-mail sent to them; awaiting response.

Improved rear sight-- May opt for "square" sight with added white paint outline.

No problem with painting front sight blade--I've done so many times.

Will see if I can order a NM Blackhawk Bisley hammer from Ruger.

Understood about "additional" calibers suitable for this revolver. Maybe I'll experiment a bit after I determine the revolver is GTG as-is.

Much obliged!

 

[contender]

Sounds like you are on the right track.
You'll like those rear sights.
And the Belt Mtn pin,, it may take him a bit to get to an email. But he does get them and takes care of everything.

Bisley hammers are not always available as "extra" parts. very popular for many. They sell fast.