22/45 fieldstrip from hell!!!

Donaldjr1969

Blackhawk
Joined
May 26, 2010
Messages
751
City & State/Province
Akron, Ohio
Normally, I have no issues fieldstripping a 22/45 MkIII. Even reassembling it goes fairly quickly and trouble-free. But tonight was NOT the case!!! Let's see, what went wrong tonight? Or shall I say, what DIDN'T go wrong! ;)

First off, after I got the mainspring housing installed and went to cock the bolt, it only went back halfway. That has happened to me before and while I cannot remember what caused it right now, I know it is an easy thing to do. Remove mainspring, remove bolt, then reassemble from there. Again, no biggie.

When I went to reinstall the mainspring, it slipped slightly. Rather than the bolt stop pin thingy going through the bolt and up through the hole for it in the top of the receiver, the bolt stop shifts forward and gets wedged between the hammer and the bolt!!! :evil: :evil: When that happens, one has to very carefully wiggle it free. After about 20 minutes or so of using verbal lubricant, aka profanities, I was able to loosen the mainspring housing to slide out.

Oh but it does not stop there!!! :shock: The hammer strut become all out of alignment. The mainspring housing went in as it should. The bolt cocked, but it still hung up. The trigger would not reset and there was excessive force needed to insert and remove the magazine! WHAT THE HECK??? And yet again, the mainspring housing was hard to remove to the point where it needed a good tap with a dowel.

After disassembling it, I referred to exploded views in my owners manual and inspected the hammer assembly for damage. Luckily, nothing was bent or the like. So...I go to reinstall the bolt and mainspring. FINALLY it worked! I chambered a fired casing and the indent from the dry fire was normal. I repeatedly cycled the bolt by hand to check for feed issues with live rounds with my hand away from the trigger. Everything was as it should have been and as it was before the fieldstrip! Phew! After that, I think I need one of my "real" shamrock shakes! :lol:

Anyway, sorry for the rant. But darn, a job that normally is something I can do with my eyes closed just goes awry tonight. Hopefully, I am not the only member here that, while being able to fieldstrip and reassemble a 22/45 easiley, ends up seeing a routine fieldstrip turn into a living hell! :P
 
Don’t feel bad. I think all of us who love our Mark III 22/45 have assembly moments we just cannot explain.

A few weeks back I was in my garage cleaning my Mark III and I completely stripped it, because I have about 10K rounds through her and felt she needed a good inspection and detailed cleaning. I had everything laid out nicely on a small table in perfect assemble order after inspecting and cleaning. Just when I was getting ready to start assembling my neighbors ADHD Retriever ran into the garage jumping on me playing and he knocked over the table. Every little part went flying. It took me an hour on my hands and knees to find everything and start over. You know how small the safety spring is in the Mark III for these old eyes. :)

Good thing for my neighbor’s dog that I’m safety nut, and lock my other weapons and ammo in the safe when I am cleaning so that no accidents occur, otherwise, I would have fixed the family a Vietnamese dish of ADHD dog for dinner. :)
 
Highstandardguy said:
I did mine once. If it ever gets dirty enough that I have to take it apart again, I'll probably just sell it.
I got in the habit of cleaning it every 400 rounds or so to get a lot of the dirt and grit out of the trigger mechanism and the grip frame. Of course, I can always clean the barrel after every shooting. But still, I just like to get everything I can out of the grip frame.

Well, as expected, my 22/45 shot as good as it did before. When I was having some problems and considering how tight that parts were fitting when I had problems reassembling it, I just wanted to make sure.
 
Highstandardguy said:
I did mine once. If it ever gets dirty enough that I have to take it apart again, I'll probably just sell it.

It gets real easy after 2 or 3 times. Just follow the instructions in the manual and you should have no problem!

Watch this guy>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fIYIWK0boo&feature=related
 
carsinc said:
Sell it and buy a revolver.
I've already got a revolver. A 44Magnum Super Redhawk! :D If Ruger did still make a .22LR double action revolver, I'd take it in a heartbeat. The S&W Model 17 is just too expensive. The Taurus is a good price, but I do not trust their spotty quality control issues. The Charter Arms does not have the barrel lengths I want. Besides, the 22/45 is good practice for when I want to shoot my P90.
 
Here's a good deal on a S&W 617 in the Classifieds Section.....if still available!

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=111146
 
We have all been there a time or two. Great gun, PITA to field strip.

There is an aftermarket part which will allow you to bypass the housing latch/mainspring housing and take the bolt out with a hex key. Looks pretty slick:

http://www.majesticarms.com/id10.html

-Jay
 
The mag safety is what makes the Mk III a PITA to field strip. You could always remove the mag safety by installing a Mk II hammer bushing - Plus your Mk III 22/45 mags would drop free upon pressing the release...
 
Donaldjr1969 said:
When I went to reinstall the mainspring, it slipped slightly. Rather than the bolt stop pin thingy going through the bolt and up through the hole for it in the top of the receiver, the bolt stop shifts forward and gets wedged between the hammer and the bolt!!! :evil: :evil: When that happens, one has to very carefully wiggle it free. After about 20 minutes or so of using verbal lubricant, aka profanities, I was able to loosen the mainspring housing to slide out.

Hey I was wondering if you (or anyone) could help me. I did this and I can't seem to find the right terminology to figure out how undo it. I just got my first ruger, tried to disassemble and reassemble it, and made that same mistake. This is the only place I've found that made mention of this particular problem.
Right now I've got it stuck but the bolt stop pin is wedged forward somewhere and I can't get the mainspring assembly out. I'm not sure what tricks I should try to get it coaxed out.
 
dillydallyho said:
Donaldjr1969 said:
When I went to reinstall the mainspring, it slipped slightly. Rather than the bolt stop pin thingy going through the bolt and up through the hole for it in the top of the receiver, the bolt stop shifts forward and gets wedged between the hammer and the bolt!!! :evil: :evil: When that happens, one has to very carefully wiggle it free. After about 20 minutes or so of using verbal lubricant, aka profanities, I was able to loosen the mainspring housing to slide out.

Hey I was wondering if you (or anyone) could help me. I did this and I can't seem to find the right terminology to figure out how undo it. I just got my first ruger, tried to disassemble and reassemble it, and made that same mistake. This is the only place I've found that made mention of this particular problem.
Right now I've got it stuck but the bolt stop pin is wedged forward somewhere and I can't get the mainspring assembly out. I'm not sure what tricks I should try to get it coaxed out.
Good morning, Dilly! Welcome to the forum!

When I had that mistake, the only thing I could do is to carefully wiggle it free. It's a very tight fit but with time and patience, it will come out. I did not use any tools to try to force it out as there is the risk of bending something and rendering the pistol a paperweight. What I do remember is that a mix of lateral and front to back pulling on the mainspring housing eventually worked it free.

After that incident, I A, learned to visually examine the receiver to see if the bolt stop pin is properly lined up with the top hole before snapping it into place. B, I ALWAYS have the instructions in front of me during reassembly. I have given up trying to see how fast I can reassemble it every time. I'd much rather go slowly and have the pistol reassembled right the first time than try to go fast, then spend over an hour getting it right the second time! :lol:
 
jarubla said:
We have all been there a time or two. Great gun, PITA to field strip.

There is an aftermarket part which will allow you to bypass the housing latch/mainspring housing and take the bolt out with a hex key. Looks pretty slick:

http://www.majesticarms.com/id10.html

-Jay
Thanks I'm expecting delivery on my 22/45 anytime now Lipseys must be slow this time of year.
 
gknr4f said:
Donaldjr1969 said:
carsinc said:
Sell it and buy a revolver.
If Ruger did still make a .22LR double action revolver, I'd take it in a heartbeat.

ruger does make a couple 22lr DA revolvers:

http://www.ruger.com/products/lcr/models.html

http://www.ruger.com/products/sp101/models.html
At this date, yes. But when I made the post several months ago, the SP101 22 and the LCR 22 were not released yet. But then, I still would like a barrel length of at least 6 inches or more so as to have a sight radius closer to that of my Super Redhawk.
 
Well I am a shadetree gunsmith and mainly do cleanings and scope installs and small repairs. I had a friend stop me the other day and had a 22/45 he took apart several years ago and couldn't get it back together. He laid it on top of his guncase and forgot about it. He asked if I would try to fix it. I told him to leave it and I would see if I could fix it for him. After I got it back apart and cleaned it up it went as smooth as clockwork. and almost fell back together and works fine. I think the 2 tilting moves is what gives most people problems. first you tilt the barrel down and squeeze the trigger to let the hammer forward. Then you install the pin into the hole fully but don't lock the latch until you tilt the barrel up to let the hammer strut align with the notch in the latch. Simple as pie and no trouble at all when done in that sequence. And yes I had a similar experience years ago. Once you fight with a ruger like that you always remember it and some folks hit it lucky and it goes together without a problem without noticing the tilting required to assemble the ruger automatics
 
Donaldjr1969 said:
...After that incident, I A, learned to visually examine the receiver to see if the bolt stop pin is properly lined up with the top hole before snapping it into place. B, I ALWAYS have the instructions in front of me during reassembly. I have given up trying to see how fast I can reassemble it every time. I'd much rather go slowly and have the pistol reassembled right the first time than try to go fast, then spend over an hour getting it right the second time! :lol:

X10, I've fixed more than a few MKIIIs for friends and this is the one piece of information I really stress on. DO NOT attempt to disassemble and reassemble without the manual in front of you. Additionally, the gun doesn't need to come apart everytime you go to the range. I've got a lot of these things, and I won't say I've never had an issue putting one back together, but that manual is always out when I do take them down.
 
I love my new Mk III 22/45 slab side. Joy to shoot and astonishingly accurate. But I gotta say that sucker was TIGHT to get apart.

I shaved down a piece of handle from an old toothbrush to make a plastic punch for punching out and re-seating the hammer spring assembly.

The barrel would not unseat from the grip until I found an old rubber mallet and 'beat on it like a rented mule.'

Reseating the barrel on the frame involved merciless pounding of the muzzle on a carpeted floor.

Took it apart a second time to install Sam Lam's hammer bushing. Of course I would not recommend anyone modify their firearm in any way. But the mags now release and fall freely from the stock, no need to pry out with fingernail. Also I can dry fire the gun without magazine installed. That simplifies take-down and re-assembly.

Also improves safely, I believe. I like to keep my mags loaded, and I like to crack the slide back to take a final peek into the chamber just before dry firing. I don't like to have to install the mag to actuate the trigger.

Have about 500 rounds thru it now. The hammer spring assembly can be pulled out and re-installed by hand, without a claw hammer and plastic or wood dowel punch tool. Don't see any need for frequent removal of the barrel from frame, but expect that will loosen up over time also.
 
OpsMgr said:
The mag safety is what makes the Mk III a PITA to field strip. You could always remove the mag safety by installing a Mk II hammer bushing - Plus your Mk III 22/45 mags would drop free upon pressing the release...

You can also buy one of Sam's bushings for $10. and use your existing MKIII hammer.
 
I heard and read about all the horror stories of field stripping the Mark III and i thought no not me, but sure enough i ran into roadblocks. :oops:
 
D_Gunner said:
I heard and read about all the horror stories of field stripping the Mark III and i thought no not me, but sure enough i ran into roadblocks. :oops:
I think all but the luckiest will run into a 22/45 fieldstrip roadblock at least once.
 
I have just inserted the mainspring housing bolt forward of the hole it is suppose to go in. I have taken the advice of wiggling and pulling and side to side movement... and the most important... the uttering of explicit terms in hopes of getting the housing back out. An hour later I am still in the process of:
1. wiggle and pull
2. rotate and pull
3. explicit remarks
repeat... over and over...

any one have any other help they might be able to share? It's a great looking paperweight and all but I really would like to actually shoot it again!

Thanks
 
I just had my brandy new 22/45 a few weeks, and after firing it a few times, felt it was time to try the field strip process, despite the anectodal evidence that it could be a bear. Hey, I'm an engineer, how bad could it be?! Well, I was following a YouTube video, that seemed to do a better job than trying to follow the manual, which I found confusing, and it worked the first time no problem. Then I decided to try it again, feeling my oats, and sure enough, I wasn't paying attention, and jammed the pin forward of the hole! I could not understand why it would not pull free, and after ever increasing levels of force due to ever shrinking patience, I just ripped it out. Needless to say, it would not work correctly after that, figured I'd bent something. Brought it to my 'smith, and even he couldn't figure out what was wrong, so we ended up sending it back to Ruger. They realized it had been mishandled, but still fixed it as a courtesy. Great customer service. Anyway, I'm going to fire about 10K rounds through it before I decide whether to try stripping it again.... Now I know why the ritualistic insert mag, point up, pull trigger dance. Eeech, the manual should explain what is going on, i.e. the mag interlock "feature".

ps- Can I dry fire the MK-II, like the MK-III 22/45?
 
oneruger said:
I have just inserted the mainspring housing bolt forward of the hole it is suppose to go in. I have taken the advice of wiggling and pulling and side to side movement... and the most important... the uttering of explicit terms in hopes of getting the housing back out. An hour later I am still in the process of:
1. wiggle and pull
2. rotate and pull
3. explicit remarks
repeat... over and over...

any one have any other help they might be able to share? It's a great looking paperweight and all but I really would like to actually shoot it again!

Thanks
The only advice I can give is to just keep at it with the wiggling and pulling. Eventually it will come free.
 
oneruger said:
I have just inserted the mainspring housing bolt forward of the hole it is suppose to go in. I have taken the advice of wiggling and pulling and side to side movement... and the most important... the uttering of explicit terms in hopes of getting the housing back out. An hour later I am still in the process of:
1. wiggle and pull
2. rotate and pull
3. explicit remarks
repeat... over and over...

any one have any other help they might be able to share? It's a great looking paperweight and all but I really would like to actually shoot it again!

Thanks

Have you tried wrapping a piece of cloth (good old piece of tee shirt) on the mainspring lever and pulling with a pair of pliers? I have to do that to start my mainspring assembly out.
 
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