1st posting, new single-six needs bluing and grip frame finishes.

settup6

Single-Sixer
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Oct 30, 2023
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North Carolina
Hi, just purchased a ‘84-‘85 32 H&R Mag single-six. I knew it was needing refinished but didn’t realize the grip frame was aluminum and was anodized and would be a different process all together. I could use some insights into where to look to get a quality job done. Any info would help!
Thanks
 
Welcome to the Forum!

Anodizing the grip frame can be a challenge,, even for a professional place. Trying to match the original color/finish is NOT easy or cheap.

Brownells offers a spray can of Alumahyde finish stuff, that has been used often by many. It's not a bad way to go.
Others have stripped the g/f & left it "as polished" instead of trying to refinish it.

And others,, have taken the Cerrakote route.

If I PERSONALLY wanted one done,, I'd look hard at the Cerrakote process,, by someone who knows how to match the Ruger color.
 
You need a few more posts to open up the PM process.
 
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Thanks so much, I’ve also seen on Rugers website that they sell a steel grip frame that would need fitted and thought that could then be blued or cerrakoted. It’s a good shooter and fun to load for but it does deserve to be returned to good shape.
 
Welcome to the forum. I have a blued steel 2015 Single-six and I just wanted to go for a two-tone so I stripped the finish off the grip frame and just polished the finish, it looks pretty nice I think. However, the finish on the newer Single-six grip frames are painted rather than anodized and the paint was easily removed with paint remover products and I'm not sure about removing the older anodized finish. I also wound up buying a stainless steel grip frame for mine and when they say some fitting may be needed, considerable fitting had to be done to mine. I am actually now happy with either the stainless steel grip frame or the stripped and polished original aluminum grip frame. Picture is of the stainless steel grip frame on the revolver. I don't have a picture with the original stripped aluminum frame.
 

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Hello, wow that does look really nice and I may keep that as a backup plan! I have already located a black replacement frame for reasonable price and will go that route. I may polish up the old aluminum and see how it turns out and have two different looks. I do appreciate the response!

Thanks,
settup6
 
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Yes! Sending it back to Ruger is by far the least expensive and the best results.

However they no longer anodize alloy parts like the grip frame ever since new production changed to powder coating alloy parts about 20 years ago. The baked on power coating is superior to anodizing and a much better match to the rest of the gun.

Polishing the alloy grip does not look good for long and oxidizes rapidly to a ugly dingy look.

My choice is replacing with blued or stainless steel grip frames. But not a new one! Much cheaper getting a used steel grip frame and is far less work, usually little fitting required because they’ve already been factory fitted to a gun. Stainless is easiest because any fitted areas only needs to be polished, no bluing to touch up.

If you send the gun to Ruger for a refinish you can request a steel grip frame replacement.
You can get the same size XR3-RED or my preference for the small frame .22 and .32, the Ruger original XR3 Colt size grip frame, currently installed on the New Vaqueros and Flattop Blackhawks.
 
Send it back to Ruger…they will do the job with the bluing and the anodizing!

Yes! Sending it back to Ruger is by far the least expensive and the best results.

However they no longer anodize alloy parts like the grip frame ever since new production changed to powder coating alloy parts about 20 years ago. The baked on power coating is superior to anodizing and a much better match to the rest of the gun.

Polishing the alloy grip does not look good for long and oxidizes rapidly to a ugly dingy look.

My choice is replacing with blued or stainless steel grip frames. But not a new one! Much cheaper getting a used steel grip frame and is far less work, usually little fitting required because they’ve already been factory fitted to a gun. Stainless is easiest because any fitted areas only needs to be polished, no bluing to touch up.

If you send the gun to Ruger for a refinish you can request a steel grip frame replacement.
You can get the same size XR3-RED or my preference for the small frame .22 and .32, the Ruger original XR3 Colt size grip frame, currently installed on the New Vaqueros and Flattop Blackhawks.
Thanks, I’m going to contact them to get it reblued, I have a grip frame on the way so part one is taken care of, got to shoot it again last night and I’m still smiling. 😊
 
Removing anodizing from an older grip frame is WAY easier than removing the baked on paint of the newer ones. For touch up (especially on a OEM painted frame), the Aluma-hyde route is preferred. If the whole thing needs redone, I would have it Cerrakoted as mentioned above, especially an anodized frame.
 
Ruger redid a Security Six for a friend of mine probably 25 years ago and they sent it back like new complete with new hammer and trigger and springs and sights and grips for $35.
 
Ruger redid a Security Six for a friend of mine probably 25 years ago and they sent it back like new complete with new hammer and trigger and springs and sights and grips for $35.
I’ve heard lots of stories about how they come back with new hardware and think that’s pretty good customer service!
 
I had a 357 three screw done by Ruger and they did great and was $35.00 then
I have bought a few grip frames from ebay and was happy with them and probably cheaper than you can have one refinished.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2562767257...oNLDmypXiQaKLrRb21Jz1olmB2|tkp:Bk9SR76_xJb0Yg
It's a New Model alloy grip frame with the factory powder coating baked finish. It's a pre 1999 issue with the shorter 'ears' around the hammer. They are too short for any main frame made after 1999.
 
It's a New Model alloy grip frame with the factory powder coating baked finish. It's a pre 1999 issue with the shorter 'ears' around the hammer. They are too short for any main frame made after 1999.
Hondo,
Just showing that they are available on Ebay. I wasn't going to spend a lot of time looking for something I didn't need. ;)
 
Hondo,
Just showing that they are available on Ebay. I wasn't going to spend a lot of time looking for something I didn't need. ;)
I got lucky and found a powder coat frame for less than the eBay pirates. lol It’s interesting to follow the changes in manufacturing practices.
 
Polishing the alloy grip does not look good for long and oxidizes rapidly to a ugly dingy look.
I just wanted to respond to this with my experience. I have read other comments about a stripped alloy grip frame oxidizing and getting ugly. My grip frame has been stripped and polished for about 2 years and it has never tarnished. However, that is no guarantee as to what others might experience.
 
Cerakote Elite Black is a great match for Ruger bluing. E100 Blackout. It’s described as being an eggshell finish but the guy who did mine got it almost gloss. It’s extremely durable- I had him coat a couple bolts to do a torture test. It came out so well I had him do all the hinge bolts for my Jeep Scrambler.
IMG_4667.jpeg
IMG_4622.jpeg

As far as Ruger rebluing- this gun had a canted front sight and a few burrs on the corners of the cylinder window. They straightened the barrel, smoothed the burrs, and reblued it under warranty. It came out great. I just wish I had put in the longer hammer plunger to minimize the drag line. This pic is after the reblue and after I installed a gripframe from Ronnie Wells.
IMG_7641.jpeg
 
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Changed the grip frame, trying to decide if I should redo the whole thing. So far I like the deep clean, and new frame.
 

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I just wanted to respond to this with my experience. I have read other comments about a stripped alloy grip frame oxidizing and getting ugly. My grip frame has been stripped and polished for about 2 years and it has never tarnished. However, that is no guarantee as to what others might experience.
I cannot imagine the horrific environment it must take to corrode a highly polish aluminum OR steel frame. The higher the polish, the harder the surface (kind of) for corrosion. Steel rusts, aluminum does not...but can corrode or whatever the term is. None of the frames I did ever showed any negative signs.
 

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