10/22 Trigger Job.

sourdough44

Single-Sixer
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
466
City & State/Province
WI
I bought an 8 or so year old 10/22 a few months ago. The gun is pristine but the trigger left much to be desired. I debated the V. replacement, and then there's the Timney 'drop-in'. Midway has the Volq. replacement parts on a good sale until the end of May if anyone is interested.

Yesterday I decided to try the home 'polishing' of the factory trigger parts. I got schooled up with some u-tube videos & at rimfirecentral. I tested the trigger before the job, it was off the top side of my spring pull scale. I venture to say 6++ or so. After the polishing I am at a steady 4lbs. The roughness of the pull is mostly gone. I delved into this with the idea that I had to do something & if I messed it up I would just get the upgraded trigger parts. It turned out well enough that now I don't plan to do anything else. I do have one more 10/22 to do.

I will also add that I did this as a test & could of spent more time doing it. If you really put your mind to it you could get it a little lower. I can live with a less gritty 4lbs though. I saw where some of the rimfire guys said if you are fairly well versed to try it yourself 1st, before spending the cash. There are a ton of U-tube videos & other web instructions available. The 1st time is always the hardest with the re-assembly.
 
Did the polishing job myself.... it helped, but still wasn't where I wanted it to be. Then, I had a chance to fire a friend's 10/22 with a Hornet trigger assembly.

That's what I have now.... less than a Ben Franklin, includes the extended mag release, a CLEAN 2-1/2 pound pull, and installation takes about a minute.
 
Yes, I may spring some $$ at some time in the future, but since my gun budget has been strained lately this will do for now. I do see the Hornet assembly getting good reviews though.
 
I've done the DIY stuff but still find for the time and patience for the DIY/drop in stuff and the cost of the "drop-in" stuff, I'd rather send mine off for a re-work. Costs a few dollars more but he end result is far better. I use TT Shooter for all mine that get reworked.
 
I am happy with my DIY polish job, even though it is the dreaded polymer trigger group.
 
96/44":2rbgaw5k said:
I am happy with my DIY polish job, even though it is the dreaded polymer trigger group.

Dreaded? I've still yet to see anyone show how this polymer assembly is so much of a horrible and inferior change? Anyone? :?
 
I have the 2 10/22s, the 1st went to 4lbs on the polish job. The 2nd stayed in the 6lb area. It also had some fair machining marks on the hammer. I bought the Volquartsen hammer pack on sale at Midway & the 2nd 10/22 settled right in at just over 2 lbs. I could see the hammer was polished smooth as a newborn's bottom.

I can live with the one at 4 & the 2nd just over 2. It was much quicker to get to a good pull with the Volq. hammer.
 
Ive done the DIY trigger job on mine am I'm at a 2lb 4oz pull did the buddys 10/22 and its the same. Im happy with mine at no cost.
 
My '66 10/22 (bought used) came with a crispy 4-pound pull that I find delightful. I've no plans to change anything about it.

My '85 gun (bought new) has a 6-7 pound pull with a very slight bit of creep. It feels almost exactly like my WWII Inland USGI M1 carbine. That's why I'm going to put it in a USGI carbine stock, put USGI carbine sights on it, and use it as a carbine trainer. :wink:
 
I bought a charger with the new poly group and but the Volquatsen hammer and spring in it and it caused a serious safety problem... if you pull the trigger with the safety on, nothing happens but when you flip the safety off... pow! I had to put the original hammer back on the charger. This could have just been on mine.... too much play between the safety button and the sear but I would / will check this first thing if I change out a hammer and spring again.
 
blume357":1bquo2xb said:
I bought a charger with the new poly group and but the Volquatsen hammer and spring in it and it caused a serious safety problem... if you pull the trigger with the safety on, nothing happens but when you flip the safety off... pow! I had to put the original hammer back on the charger. This could have just been on mine.... too much play between the safety button and the sear but I would / will check this first thing if I change out a hammer and spring again.

I had similar problems with a 10/22.
The polymer trigger group is dimensioned slightly differently than metal ones, and the parts that would make a nice trigger in a metal housing don't work well out-of-the-box in the poly units.
I sent my whole trigger group back to Power Custom to get it fixed, and wound up with a very nice 2# trigger. It did involve the extra trouble, but was worth it in the end.
 
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