10/22 buffer

daveg.inkc

Hunter
Joined
Nov 14, 2015
Messages
2,503
City & State/Province
Kansas City, MO
Has anyone replaced the steel bolt pin with a poly buffer type? Theres a youtube video, these cats replace the barrel clamp with a GRX? has a lug that is glass bedded in stock. Their heavy barrel 10/22 is shooting small groups to start with. I can see no improvement after they finish project. So, I was reading Brownells catalog and found these buffers. They work in my 1911, slide leaves a horseshoe mark. And I wore one out on my Mini 14.
 
I put synthetic buffers in all my 10-22's. My oldest one has the pin hole beat out into an egg shape and I found and oversized plastic buffer for it to tighten things up. Just my opinion but synthetic should be standard.
 
I have them in my 10/22's mostly because they quiet down some of the metallic sound when action is cycling. My first 10/22 has over 15,000 rounds fired and I replaced factory pin with a poly buffer pin after over 10,000, but there was no apparent damage to the aluminum receiver. I just replaced it when I started to replace them in my newer guns.
 
The steel works with the cut out on the back of the bolt to deflect the rear of the bolt down. This stops the rearward movement of the bolt in two steps. This spreads the impact out over time and reduces the forces adsorbed by the receiver. When the bot is kicked down, it has to hit the small ledge on the top of the trigger group, slowing the return of the bolt to battery.

The action is designed to run with the steel pin. If the bolt hitting the pin is too load you should be wearing hearing protection.
 
I do wear hearing protection, Precision<< . I dont hear it, I have buffers in other auto loaders. And they absorb the shock
 
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daveg.inkc said:
I do wear hearing protection, Precision<< . I dont hear it, I have buffers in other auto loaders. And they absorb the shock

Try shooting an M1 Garand in 30-06. There is no buffer in it at all.
 
"BUFFERS. :D The snake oil of the gun culture. :D"
"Swapping in a buffer should have your 10/22™ making at least ten more horsepower"

Maybe so/maybe no. I've spent far more for far less many times so if the things are worthless, at least they make me feel better.
 
Ol'Freak said:
Swapping in a buffer should have your 10/22™ making at least ten more horsepower :roll:

Not to mention that my gas mileage improved 100%. (The tank overflowed)
Actually, the buffer keeps the hole in the receiver from egging out from repeated hammering. I got a length of 1/4"Ø black nylon rod from McMaster-Carr and made a half-dozen of them.

 
FlyerTom said:
Ol'Freak said:
Swapping in a buffer should have your 10/22™ making at least ten more horsepower :roll:

Not to mention that my gas mileage improved 100%. (The tank overflowed)
Actually, the buffer keeps the hole in the receiver from egging out from repeated hammering. I got a length of 1/4"Ø black nylon rod from McMaster-Carr and made a half-dozen of them.


Got any close-ups of those egg shaped from the pounding bolt stop pin holes ?
 
My stock steel buffer was so loose that it rattled loudly when the rifle was moved side to side. The synthetic buffer remedied that rattling --- for what it's worth.
 
The best shooting 10-22 I own is so loose that every pin falls out when the action is out of the stock.
 
Hi,

Somehow methinks with the way Ruger's bean counters appeaar to work sleepless nights trying to figure out how to cheapen the production cost of their guns, customer be da(r)ned, there must be a really good reason they have NOT already gone to a synthetic buffer from the factory.

Rick C
 
A lot of the bean counting has turned into high quality parts being produced. Ruger spent a lot of money to produce cold-hammer-forged barrels for almost all their guns. Most 10/22s may not need a aftermarket barrel anymore because of that upgrade.

Instead of buying buffers, try replacing the recoil spring/charging handle assembly after about 5000 rounds, that spring doesn't last forever it gets weaker and the bolt slams into the bolt stop harder. But don't put in a stronger recoil spring than OEM because the bolt will come forward too fast. :lol:
 
rattlegun said:
Instead of buying buffers, try replacing the recoil spring/charging handle assembly after about 5000 rounds, that spring doesn't last forever it gets weaker and the bolt slams into the bolt stop harder. But don't put in a stronger recoil spring than OEM because the bolt will come forward too fast. :lol:
Springs do not get weaker through use. When a spring fails it breaks, it does not get weaker. Look up "elastic solids" for yourself. When was the last time you changed the springs under your car or the valve springs in your engine?
 
Springs do wear out. Put couple hundred thousand miles on a Chevelle, any A-body. There are shims to place under valve springs to get proper tension on overhauls. Springs weaken, sag, wear out. There are little wedges that used to be sold to spreads coils apart on cars.
 
Kansas City Springs Works. I've had truck springs re-arched and replaced with new. Not a spring made that won't wear out at some point in it's life. Ever watched a progressive die run in a press? Ask any tool and die maker, springs under the stripper plates give out. Usually break, old car seats sagging,,
 
daveg.inkc said:
Kansas City Springs Works. I've had truck springs re-arched and replaced with new. Not a spring made that won't wear out at some point in it's life. Ever watched a progressive die run in a press? Ask any tool and die maker, springs under the stripper plates give out. Usually break, old car seats sagging,,
I used to make my living as a tool and die maker. As you point out, springs fail by breaking, not getting weaker. Sagging springs are ones pushed beyond their elastic yield point. Than there is physical wear by abrasion.

Ever use a beam style torque wrench? It's nothing but a spring. It will comply with Hooke's Law until the day it fails, by breaking.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elasticity_(physics)
 
Have 2 with aftermarket buffers. Shot my 3rd (a parts gun) today with steel buffer. Been a while since I had shot with steel buffer installed. Gun shot just fine. Clacking sound was annoying and I fantasized that the recoil process wasn't as smooth. FWIW, I'll be getting a 3rd "soft" buffer, even if it's just the shank of a nylon bolt from Lowe's......
 
Precision32 said:
rattlegun said:
Instead of buying buffers, try replacing the recoil spring/charging handle assembly after about 5000 rounds, that spring doesn't last forever it gets weaker and the bolt slams into the bolt stop harder. But don't put in a stronger recoil spring than OEM because the bolt will come forward too fast. :lol:
Springs do not get weaker through use. When a spring fails it breaks, it does not get weaker. Look up "elastic solids" for yourself. When was the last time you changed the springs under your car or the valve springs in your engine?


I disagree 100 percent based on several instances of personal experience. springs DO get "weaker" or worn out through use. I have had to replace several recoil springs because they were worn out and weaker than what the pistol was designed to function with. all of the springs that I replaced where intact, none of them were broken. after replacing the recoil springs, the pistols once again functioned without issues. I've also had to replace magazine springs, and they too were intact an unbroken. I don't have a fancy title or an engineering degree, but I do know what I've experienced over the years.
 
triton186 said:
I disagree 100 percent based on several instances of personal experience. springs DO get "weaker" or worn out through use. I have had to replace several recoil springs because they were worn out and weaker than what the pistol was designed to function with. all of the springs that I replaced where intact, none of them were broken. after replacing the recoil springs, the pistols once again functioned without issues. I've also had to replace magazine springs, and they too were intact an unbroken. I don't have a fancy title or an engineering degree, but I do know what I've experienced over the years.

when a spring is pushed to its material maximun strenght, then there will be a gradual fatigue. to fit the smallest spring with the most return, gun manufactures do design springs that will get weaker since they are pushed beyond the material's strenght.

I have done calcs on "brand name after market" performance springs and they are way outside the "normal" limits. and they take a set and get weaker within a hundred rounds
 
JFB said:
when a spring is pushed to its material maximun strenght, then there will be a gradual fatigue. to fit the smallest spring with the most return, gun manufactures do design springs that will get weaker since they are pushed beyond the material's strenght.

I have done calcs on "brand name after market" performance springs and they are way outside the "normal" limits. and they take a set and get weaker within a hundred rounds
If you push a spring beyond the elastic limit of the material it is made of, the spring is deformed the first time it is pushed beyond that limit. Please provide us just one example of a firearm deigned with springs designed to fail.

What calcs did you do and which springs are getting weaker within 100 cycles?
 
Precision32 said:
If you push a spring beyond the elastic limit of the material it is made of, the spring is deformed the first time it is pushed beyond that limit. Please provide us just one example of a firearm deigned with springs designed to fail.

What calcs did you do and which springs are getting weaker within 100 cycles?

Doing spring calcs is not one of my routine activities and I have to rely upon handbooks (and now spring website online software). but I have had to spec a few springs for varoius pieces of equipment over the decades. Here is a link to a review of springs for the Keltec P series guns. I even had a few replies from a Ruger designer (CoffeeCan ?) related to his work on similair.

http://www.thektog.org/forum/f87/wolff-recoil-springs-calibration-pack-reveiw-198394/

If you do review, you should notice that the 200Kpsi meterial strenght I used for an unity comparision factor is actually above the strenght of most spring material (KT uses a properity silicon something alloy).

And as you stated, those springs actually deformed after the first 5 rounds

I thought I had included calculation sheets with the KTOG postings, but could find them (I quit KTOG years ago when website got bought out) If I have time, I'll search for the calculation sheets and get them on photobucket latter.

I did find an interesting comment made by Coffee Pot "Bill Ruger's philosophy when it came to spring design. He insisted that all coil springs be stressed to no more than 80% of yield strength at solid height and no more than 40/45% of tensile at L2"
 
Spring makers wind the springs with a pitch longer than the final length. As soon as the spring is put into operation, it is pushed the first time the firearm fired beyond the materials deformation limits, is permanently deformed at a reduced length. That's why most people report the springs on their guns are "weak" and "got shorter".
 
Mobuck said:
"BUFFERS. :D The snake oil of the gun culture. :D"
"Swapping in a buffer should have your 10/22™ making at least ten more horsepower"

Maybe so/maybe no. I've spent far more for far less many times so if the things are worthless, at least they make me feel better.

Been there, done that, and when I think of what's been spent in many-a saloon during my youth, it makes me shudder. All the hard nylon and other magical material buffers I've installed in factory 10/22 receivers, and premium aftermarket receivers, like the "KIDD" have been money well spent. Steel bolts working on a steel stop-pin should cause a normal thinking man to stop for a minute, and consider a "steel" pin bolt stop's cause and effect, rather than a hard nylon bolt buffer. Should be a 'no-brainer' for anyone employing normal common sense. And.....................who gives a pinch of owl crap as to what the M1 Garand does, or requires? What the hell comparison is that? This is a .22 rimfire thread/forum. :roll:
 
Precision32 said:
The best shooting 10-22 I own is so loose that every pin falls out when the action is out of the stock.

Reads to me like you have NEVER shot a GOOD shooting Ruger 10/22. Pins don't fall out of a properly set-up Ruger 10/22, but if those conditions meet YOUR acceptance criteria, I'd love to shoot against those inadequate conditions any time.
 
Did you discover a problem was the bolt-stop holes in 10/22 receivers, thus you started installing buffer pins? Most other parts on the gun(s) ride steel on steel? Or did you see them for sale and bit the hook?

Loose fitting pins is by design especially through polymer, this is common sense to those that work in the field whether engineering or manufacturing. It prevents problems even in steel on steel parts.
 
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