1958 Single-Six incoming… reblue advice sought

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Uncle Howie

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Hello, all-

I’ve been reading the “Single Six rescues” thread, by RF member “Joey.” Great stuff!
Joey

Thread 'Single Six rescues'

I have always said I am not a true collector of Ruger single actions. More like a gatherer!! I seem to attract, or am attracted to, guns that need a little, or a lot, of TLC!. I just enjoy taking a down-in-the-mouth firearm and
Bringing it back to life. In the last 3 months, I have "rescued" 2 om single sixes and an om SSS. I feel I need to clarify that, one of the ss was in great shape, got it as a barreled action with cylinder, erh, proper base pin and er and loading gate. put the innards in it and gf and grips. Came with a beautiful plum ejector housing, which I had never seen. Thanks...
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Apparently, I’ve been inspired- I have a 1958 Single-Six with a 5-1/2” barrel coming in soon, from an auction. 😂

It’s already been converted, and it has a ring around the cylinder. The plan is for it to be a “shooter,” especially if I can find an original set of lockwork for it.

I’m guessing that I will want to get it reblued, if the factory is still doing reasonable refinishing. (As a “shooter,” I don’t want to sink a ton of money into it.)

Any thoughts/advice are welcome. This will be my first project of this type.

A few random thoughts:
-Since it’s been converted, likely no “free ride” to the mother ship(?). I might try to buy a shipping label from them, though.
-Will my refinished revolver show up with a fresh ring around the cylinder, from Ruger cycling the converted action while “testing,” after bluing? Any way to avoid that, other than not cycling the action, after rebluing?
-Any other advice for a relative Old Model newbie? My only Old Model ‘knowledge’ is limited to, “only drop the hammer from full cock, and carry with the hammer down on an empty chamber if it has original lockwork.”

Have limited computer skills, but will try to post pics when it comes in. This will be (approximately) ongoing project #2,337… so it might be a while, before I make any headway! 😇
 
You can "unconvert" it with parts found here, ebay, or https://cfnparts.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=413

I did have a SBH reblued, but because it had not been converted I chose to go the private route. My gunsmith sends everything to this guy: https://foglesgunsmithing.com/

Here is a before/after of the work they do:
1767566179323.png

1767566194528.png
 
"-Will my refinished revolver show up with a fresh ring around the cylinder, from Ruger cycling the converted action while “testing,” after bluing? Any way to avoid that, other than not cycling the action, after rebluing?"

Most likely,, it will not have the turn line on the cylinder when it returns. To prevent the line,, have the parts in hand to re-convert it the day it arrives. Then use the proper loading & unloading sequence to prevent the line.
 
I literally just had one done by Ruger. It came back in 100% condition. True- they converted it while there and gave me the old parts back. But I never thought about mentioning that when I called. I just called and they emailed me a label after I paid for it. Had them do a rifle barrel for me too. Cheapest price by far, and very nice finish.
 
Uncle Howie said:
…… The plan is for it to be a “shooter,” ……

…… As a “shooter,” I don’t want to sink a ton of money into it.)
Click to expand...
My thoughts.
Just shoot it.

If you want a pretty one there are plenty for sale in very fine to mint condition. Apply your reblue budget to one in excellent condition.

Now, if I was to get one refinished, Id have Ruger do it.
 
Hey, Uncle Howie

Just ran across this thread. Thank you for the compliment. Not often I get called for inspiring, more the opposite!
Post pics of the ss when you get it. I can put you together a "re-conversion" kit out of my parts box. If you decide to send it to Ruger, do it before you put it back to as shipped condition. I have also been told to remove the grips before shipping, as this is just another item for them to keep up with. And Ruger still has the re-blue program; I called them last week to confirm. I will be sending the ss that was stored in a holster to get blued. A coupla years ago I sent an om .41 for barrel replacement, they did a great job, re-blued the whole gun, and it looked great, Cost they quoted last week is 175.00, I did not ask them if that included the grip frame. I got the .41 back in a 14 days, a great turnaround time.
 
"-Will my refinished revolver show up with a fresh ring around the cylinder, from Ruger cycling the converted action while “testing,” after bluing? Any way to avoid that, other than not cycling the action, after rebluing?"

It's highly unlikely that they'll cycle it enough to wear thru the bluing.

The first thing I do on EVERY single revolver I acquire or work on for friends, especially brand new guns:

It's amazing how rough the surface of the bolt can be. Take 10 minutes to pull out the cylinder and polish the top surface of the cyl locking bolt. You'll really mitigate the cylinder line for years.

TIPS:

- first check the fit of the cyl bolt by marking the cylinder with a black felt pen where the ring appears including the approach ramps right in front of the cyl notches. Cycle the action until the cylinder has rotated completely around. Is the mark in the black ink centered in the approach ramp? If not start by sanding the hump of the cyl bolt till you get the mark centered.
- don't change the angle of the surface
- don't round off the right and left edges
- start with fine grit paper wrapped around a hard flat surface until the locking bolt surface is smooth
- very lightly remove the knife edge on the right and left edges
- final polish LIGHTLY with a felt buffing wheel in a Dremel tool polishing rouge (or by hand). I prefer the white rouge made for stainless steel
That's it!

Remove the grip frame from the main frame, look for an 'R' stamped on the bottom surface of the main frame near the trigger. That will tell Ruger they've already installed the retrofit transfer bar safety in that gun and they may not convert it again for free. Ask them when you call. If they say no I'd leave the parts in the gun so they don't charge you for new parts. Just ask for a refinish, it's still the best deal in town and the gun will look like new. As long as it doesn't have any big rust pits.

If there's no 'R' stamp, call and tell them you want to send it to be converted and refinished and ask for a prepaid shipping label. Remove and keep the 7 action parts and springs, including the cyl center pin before you send it to Ruger. The only minor draw back is that the replacement original type action parts that you buy, cyl pin, hammer, and trigger won't get reblued.

Looking forward to seeing your acquisition!
 
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That's some good info, Hondo. First thing they ask for is serial #, they will then tell you if it's been converted, so the proper thing to do is what Hondo suggested, tell them you want to have it converted. Contender posted a coupla weeks ago he thought they no longer stamped the main frame with an R when converting. Or at least I think he did!! But the info is in the data base under the serial #.

Can't wait to do the cylinder latch treatment, thanks, man!
 
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For now, I’m going to take Hittman’s advice, “Just shoot it.” His point about plenty of “pretty” ones out there is well taken.

I may try to scrounge up a set of parts to “unconvert” it, we’ll see.

Special thanks to Hondo44 for your excellent (as always!) advice. You are definitely one of my Ruger Forum “heroes!” (I have several…)

This revolver might be a good practice canvas for my budding gun-tinkering career! 🤠

If/when “unconverted,” it should also be a good teaching tool for proper handling of the Old Model lockwork. I’ve got the basic principles down, but I’ll need some quality practice.

BONUS- It also came with a “period correct” holster… if the “period” in question is about 2005, anyway! 😂

IMG_1473.jpeg
 
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Dang, UH, you got a deal!! Looks fantastic! I would let it wear its battle scars, good honest wear. I would like to see a pic with the hammer cocked. The hammer has the flat top of the conversion hammers, but I don't see the "hump" in the trigger that the conversion has. But then, my old eyes.........
 
Uncle Howie said:
Hello, all-

I’ve been reading the “Single Six rescues” thread, by RF member “Joey.” Great stuff!
Joey

Thread 'Single Six rescues'

I have always said I am not a true collector of Ruger single actions. More like a gatherer!! I seem to attract, or am attracted to, guns that need a little, or a lot, of TLC!. I just enjoy taking a down-in-the-mouth firearm and
Bringing it back to life. In the last 3 months, I have "rescued" 2 om single sixes and an om SSS. I feel I need to clarify that, one of the ss was in great shape, got it as a barreled action with cylinder, erh, proper base pin and er and loading gate. put the innards in it and gf and grips. Came with a beautiful plum ejector housing, which I had never seen. Thanks...
  • Like
  • Love

Apparently, I’ve been inspired- I have a 1958 Single-Six with a 5-1/2” barrel coming in soon, from an auction. 😂

It’s already been converted, and it has a ring around the cylinder. The plan is for it to be a “shooter,” especially if I can find an original set of lockwork for it.

I’m guessing that I will want to get it reblued, if the factory is still doing reasonable refinishing. (As a “shooter,” I don’t want to sink a ton of money into it.)

Any thoughts/advice are welcome. This will be my first project of this type.

A few random thoughts:
-Since it’s been converted, likely no “free ride” to the mother ship(?). I might try to buy a shipping label from them, though.
-Will my refinished revolver show up with a fresh ring around the cylinder, from Ruger cycling the converted action while “testing,” after bluing? Any way to avoid that, other than not cycling the action, after rebluing?
-Any other advice for a relative Old Model newbie? My only Old Model ‘knowledge’ is limited to, “only drop the hammer from full cock, and carry with the hammer down on an empty chamber if it has original lockwork.”

Have limited computer skills, but will try to post pics when it comes in. This will be (approximately) ongoing project #2,337… so it might be a while, before I make any headway! 😇
Click to expand...
If you want the gun as a shooter, which all of mine are, I would recommend you do not re-blue it. I feel it lessens the value to re-blue a gun. Take good care of a gun, and use it as you would a tool.
 
I am not buying that gun for $500 but for the price you paid I'd buy ten. If I had it refinished I would wait a year first in case I decided to make an easy $100 reselling to upgrade. I would not reblue if I intended to resell it. I might if I knew I was going to keep it.
 
Uncle Howie, nice snag on that revolver! For some reason my eyes are always drawn to the screw heads on used guns, just for overall aesthetics but also a “ well used but not abused” feeling about the gun if they are in good shape. A nice, quick and relatively easy upgrade to your nice find would be some work on the screws - there are short you tube tutorials on how to do it. I can give some links if needed.

Nice gun, and I’ll second the opinions to use it and shoot it and enjoy the patina of the honest wear.
 
Hondo44 said:
I had the same reaction as Joey, I don't see the hump on the back of the trigger either! But as I think about it, some earlier kits didn't have the bump and I don't think I see a bump on the one below.

View attachment 92219
Click to expand...
I pulled an early conversion kit out of my box before hibernating last night, and saw the same thing, no hump on the trigger. Still can't get over the deal you got on it. I agree with gasguzzler! That's a nice 4 5/8" BH convertible package, Hondo.
 
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Ok, the gun you received is not so worn as to "need" a reblue. I'd enjoy it "as is" and just take care of it. of course,, this is after you re-convert it to the original action type.

At $265 it was a very good buy. Even at $125 for a set of original parts,, you are still into a nice usable OM .22 for $390.00,, (or less if your conversion parts cost less than $125.00.) A very fair purchase.
Donate that nylon thing-a-ma-jig to Goodwill.
 
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