Single Six rescues

Gather App
Guns.com Vault
Thx Joey.
The ERH I used came from Cimarron F. A. Co. They made a 3 1/2" Colt clone and their ERH is as nice as the Colt part but cheaper with immediate delivery. I've also used Colt style ejector rods with their larger crescent shape knob on some of my 44 Spl Rugers. I look forward to seeing your project. Nice work on your SSS.
 
With a shorter barrel than 4 5/8", your gun may shoot low like mine did. Since you are shortening the barrel on a Super SS you probably have enough adjustment in the adjustable rear sight that you might not have to lower the front sight. But my shorty is a Single Six with the windage-adjustable-only rear sight because I was making a pocket gun. If you need to adjust your rear sight higher it's not likely to be over elevated to shoot on center at 25 yards

Have fun and let us know how your project progresses.
 
Last edited:
If you do need to lower the front sight, take a file with you to the range, file down the highest point at the top front of the front blade and shoot and file until it shoots bullseyes. If you want to restore the factory front sight blade shape, file the serrated surface of the front sight to lower it, until the high point of the blade is just as long as originally. You'll fie the ramped serrated area on an angle so the vertical rear part of the sight blade doesn't get shortened.

Then you can re-apply the serration lines with a checkering file. You can get one from Brownells or Midway Parts. You want the 40 lines per inch size to match the Ruger serrations. File 90 degrees to the barrel and it'll just cut lines, not checkering.
 
An early version of my pocket SS
1767420500778.png


A New Model Super SS with Bisley Hammer and Trigger
1767420642257.png



Old Model Super Bearcat
--Wide spur hammer from a transfer bar retrofit kit
--square top custom grips I prefer to the bearcat round top grips
http://www.fototime.com/%7B2ADCAC66-ABB5-4AAE-BE0F-E5ED7FC16690%7D/sspict/640/exp=f&modt=43150.816206875&ssdyn=1/E4DBF48A-0143-4988-BA35-5CFD0EF43608.jpeg




--Colt 22 Peacemaker ejector rod button like I used on the Bearcat. This a 32 Super Single Six. I use full size Colt ejector rods on larger caliber Rugers.
Image
 
Last edited:
Some nice guns, Hondo! Thanks for sharing!
I have a message to Cimarron, don't expect to hear from them till next week.
I tore down the driveway sss yesterday and tried to remove the barrel. Stripped out one of the bolts. Goint to the hardware store today to get replacements. I got a 2 bolt vise to better clear fixed sights on a 4 5/8" barrel. The 4 bolt versions can get into a sight. I was using belt leather as padding, and I think I was tightening the vise down on the leather rather than the barrel. I will use 1" wide leather next time. Live and learn!!
1767448050451.png
 
Joey said:
Some nice guns, Hondo! Thanks for sharing!
I have a message to Cimarron, don't expect to hear from them till next week.
I tore down the driveway sss yesterday and tried to remove the barrel. Stripped out one of the bolts. Goint to the hardware store today to get replacements. I got a 2 bolt vise to better clear fixed sights on a 4 5/8" barrel. The 4 bolt versions can get into a sight. I was using belt leather as padding, and I think I was tightening the vise down on the leather rather than the barrel. I will use 1" wide leather next time. Live and learn!!
View attachment 91610
Click to expand...

I always get the grade 8 flange bolts, and if I can find them in fine thread, that’s even better. They don’t strip, don’t break. They have marching nuts too-

IMG_2734.webp
 
Randyzzz said:
I always get the grade 8 flange bolts, and if I can find them in fine thread, that’s even better. They don’t strip, don’t break. They have marching nuts too-

View attachment 91636
Click to expand...
Thanks much man. Saw’em at the store, no all threads. Wasn’t sure partial would work, so I got the same that came with it. Got’em separated with no damage. Used thin corrugated card board board. Leather apparently has too much give. IMG_1150.jpegIMG_1151.jpeg
Now to decide barrel length. And a trip to the 'smiths. Get it cut, edges eased and crown cut. Get the er assy. Be shootin' in high cotton!
 
Last edited:
If you start with a 4 5/8" barrel, the length you can cut the barrel will be somewhat determined by the existing original front sight screw hole location. You want that hole to be covered by the relocated front sight or completely cut off.
Might want to wait to determine barrel length until you get the 3 1/2" ejector rod housing if you want barrel even with the muzzle.
 
Last edited:
What I am cutting down is a pre warning 6 5/8" Barrel off a parts kit I got, Or I may get a 5 5/8" NM off ebay and sand the book off it. I have 2 .357 barrels that got that treatment, and I like the bare look! The front sight isn't important, as this will be a point and shoot self-defense gun I may decide to put one on it, I like the looks of yours with the sight. I can always do that afterword.
Here is my barrel wrench/handle. I notched the end of an axe handle, works great. And as Clint said “There’s nothing like a good piece of oak.”
Only, this is maple. Still..................
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1154.jpeg
    IMG_1154.jpeg
    2.3 MB
  • IMG_1153.jpeg
    IMG_1153.jpeg
    3.2 MB
Last edited:
Joey, this might help. I was shown a long time ago that regular dry wall tape works extremely well as a protective shim for the barrel in your barrel vise. And, :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: IIRC..."a nice piece of Hickory" was The Preacher's remark.
 
Many things will work. My particular choice is duct tape wrapped tightly around the barrel sticky side out. Then a fairly thin piece of leather stuck to the duct tape. Two pieces of hardwood, each with a V notch to cradle the barrel in the vise. Whatever you do, don't use rosin to grip the barrel; if and when the barrel slips the rosin will rub the bluing off the barrel.
 
Hondo44 said:
Many things will work. My particular choice is duct tape wrapped tightly around the barrel sticky side out. Then a fairly thin piece of leather stuck to the duct tape. Two pieces of hardwood, each with a V notch to cradle the barrel in the vise. Whatever you do, don't use rosin to grip the barrel; if and when the barrel slips the rosin will rub the bluing off the barrel.
Click to expand...
I'll have to try this. What I did was wrap 1 1/2 blue painters tape around the barrel after degreasing with alcohol. Cut 2 pieces of thin corrugated cardboard, put one top and bottom, squooze the vice down until it was tight enough that the barrel didn't turn. I turned it just enough to see that it wasn't tight enough, else the tape will get into the roll mark and that's a pain to clean out! When it stopped turning, I took my "big stick" and gave it a sharp pull. The barrel broke loose easily. I then cleaned the tape glue off with alcohol, and oiled it to keep it from rusting. The duct tape will eliminate the glue clean up. Thanks much, Hondo.
And the no resin is great advice. Never tried it, but seen the results.
 
Here's another option. This has a Colt double action Lightening .38 Colt style birds-head grip which is a two piece grip frame like all Colt SAs. I made this grip frame for a friend who didn't like the Ruger birds-head grip frame. I used the trigger guard and front strap from a Ruger plow handle grip frame mated to a lightening birds-head backstrap from Cimarron Arms. He liked the Colt birds-head grip frame but it was too skinny. You can see how the grip frame below that I made for his Ruger is wider than the Colt style one piece wood grip. He liked it and made his own grips to fit the grip frame I made for him. I liked it better than the Ruger birds-head as well.

1767770073838.png
 
Dang man, you do some great work!

Cimarron's web site leaves a lot to be desired. I called yesterday and spent 10 minutes on the phone with a very nice lady. She emailed the parts numbers to me, will get them on order soon. In the meantime I made me one using an alu eh that was in bad shape. gonna shorten the base pin and turn it down, if it works I will have it cerakote when I do the gf. Kinda like the Vaquero Sheriff's model.
1767795391914.png

1767795459592.png
 
Ruger's modern finish for decades now instead of anodizing alum alloy parts is Powder Coating. Much more durable. If you find a location to do that I think it's preferable to cerakote.
 
OK, thanks Hondo. I'll have to look for a place. I have a xr3 gf I need to have refinished as well, have them all done at the same time. A bit more surface prep is needed on the erh, it was in bad shape. Need to work some of the gouges and scratches out of it. I called Ruger about a Vaquero Sheriffs model erh, won't sell it without a serial #, I don't own a Vaquero much less a sheriffs. Can't find one at any of the usual parts suppliers. Get the Cimarron one on order, see which I would like best before drilling and tapping the barrel. Wish this didn't say Colt.
1767821017510.png
 
I believe that's an ejector rod from the earlier Scout 22. You need the 1970-71 Colt Peacemaker 22 rod that does not have the 'Colt', but I only use them on Bearcats. Also the centerfire COLTs do not say Colt but I use them on mid and large frame Rugers.

The Ruger sheriff model ERH only comes with a straight slot like all of the Ruger ERHs, only Colts and Colt clones have the curved slot. There's a ton of clones made and some of them have offered Sheriff models. I would search with them.

The angle slot tucks the Colt ER knob up tight against the barrel. When I use a Colt rod in a Ruger straight slot ERH I grind a shallow curved slot on the front end of the Colt rod. The slot is aligned so that when you release it the spring tension forces it against the ERH retaining screw and cams it tight against the barrel.
The cylinder pin in the background has had another cannelure added near the back end so the pin is retained in the frame when making cylinder changes in the field so you don’t have to worry about dropping the pin in the dirt. Handy for guns with convertible cylinders.
1767840304135.png

1767838416580.png


NOTE: The Ruger Sheriff models are 3 3/4" barrels (in some references they are erroneously listed as 3 5?8"), but of course you could shorten the ERH 1/4" if you want a 3 1/2" barrel. To order from Ruger you can use serial #510-96646.
 
Last edited:
Joey,
I almost forgot, the other advantage of using the Colt style ERH with the angled slot is so you can remove the cyl pin far enough forward to remove the cyl without unscrewing the ERH. Push the ejector rod to the rear just enough to move it out of the way of the cylinder pin so it will move forward far enough so the cyl can be removed. That's another reason why Ruger made the cyl pin with a flat tip. The pin will also still be captured so you have to remove the ERH to remove the pin from the frame with either ERH, Ruger's with straight slot or Colt with angled slot.

You can also shorten the ER spring to get full travel of the ER for case ejection.
 
Last edited:
Hondo44 said:
Joey,
I almost forgot, the other advantage of using the Colt style ERH with the angled slot is so you can remove the cyl pin far enough forward to remove the cyl without unscrewing the ERH. Push the ejector rod to the rear just enough to move it out of the way of the cylinder pin so it will move forward far enough so the cyl can be removed. That's another reason why Ruger made the cyl pin with a flat tip. The pin will also still be captured so you have to remove the ERH to remove the pin from the frame with either ERH, Ruger's with straight slot or Colt with angled slot.

You can also shorten the ER spring to get full travel of the ER for case ejection.
Click to expand...
I hadn't thought about that, Hondo. Quite the selling point! I HATE removing and installing the erh assy!! To think about doing it every time I cleaned the gun................. Thanks much, man. Just kept me from using colorful English....
 
Hondo44 said:
Joey,
I almost forgot, the other advantage of using the Colt style ERH with the angled slot is so you can remove the cyl pin far enough forward to remove the cyl without unscrewing the ERH. Push the ejector rod to the rear just enough to move it out of the way of the cylinder pin so it will move forward far enough so the cyl can be removed. That's another reason why Ruger made the cyl pin with a flat tip. The pin will also still be captured so you have to remove the ERH to remove the pin from the frame with either ERH, Ruger's with straight slot or Colt with angled slot.

You can also shorten the ER spring to get full travel of the ER for case ejection.
Click to expand...
Went ahead and ordered the Cimarron 3 1/2" housing and screw. I appreciate it Hondo.
I am going to do the base pin mod for a couple sss when I get the barrel cut at the 'smiths. A fantastic idea!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

gunzo
The Single Six
Replies
20
Views
758
JAYDAWG
JAYDAWG
stonebuster
Old Single Six questions
Replies
22
Views
389
Hondo44
H
B
Single Six Locking Up
Replies
16
Views
542
gwpercle
G
thedogdidit
Help with a RENE. Single six info search
Replies
10
Views
316
twriggen
twriggen
D
Help with single six please
Replies
15
Views
592
eveled
eveled

Latest posts

Back
Top