Why are Ruger revolvers so fragile? (Yes I said it)

[Doug.38PR]

Don't force it, get a bigger hammer!
The cylinder latch plunger is quite thin as the spring goes inside of it.
It can be damaged on assembly, as you have done yours. When correctly assembled,
And not damaged, it will last forever. Don't forget there is this new stuff called lube. It is used to make parts slide without galling and binding.

If there is one thing I've been doing consistently, it's lubing this plunger hole before and after it got jammed. Break Free CLP.

Get a bigger hammer? I am not even a using a hammer. All I've been doing is GENTLY using a punch and tapping (with no hammer)

 

[PriseDeFer]

Now I'm praying for you. That the Lord your God will teacheth thine hands for repair and thine fingers to fix so that thine iron can once again speak of final things and spit the hot refiner's fire of purification.

 

[Doug.38PR]

This just keeps getting weirder and weirder. I took the frame to a local gunsmith to see if he could get the plunger out. He tapped on it a little and it wouldn't budge.

I got it back home, toyed with an idea. I got plyers and a spent 9mm brass shell. crushed it to where I could cover the plunger sticking up and then tapped on the side of it with my punch.

POP. The punch popped up with the spring. *whew*

AND the punch and spring are working fine now without getting stuck. (Good deal)

NOW, I put the gun back together. The bolt is working. But the gun is acting more like a Single Action Army. You pull the trigger and let the hammer down and the firing pin doesn't retract nor does the trigger come back forward resetting. You have to pull the hammer back a nudge to get it to completely reset. And, once it does reset, I can open the loading gate but something is keeping the cylinder from spinning

What is going on there?

Would that have something to do with not being able to get the Cylinder rotation stop spring screw in all the way?

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Doug, my HAMMER comment was meant to be toungue in cheek. You have to know that some kind of force has been used at the wrong time ,either when assembling or operating this revolver.the cylinder latch plunger has been damaged and it sounds like the cylinder latch or the loading gate spring or hammer plunger are also bent or damaged. When the loading gate is open the cylinder latch is supposed to drop out of the cylinder window to allow the cylinder to freely rotate.
It sounds to me that a complete tear down and inspection of all parts is in order. If you dont fully understand the function enough to identify a part as damaged it needs to go to someone who does. I suggest the Ruger factory service department.

If the trigger does not reset the transfer bar also does not lower causing the firing pin to not retract. This can be a dangerous condition. I believe Ruger will repair it for free. They don't like their guns to be in the hands of customers when they have any possible safety issues.

 

[Doug.38PR]

The loading gate spring looks okay. What I DO see happening on closer inspection is that the hammer is NOT coming down completely when "fired". The firing pin does come through and might strike the cartridge, but I noticed there is a very slight gap in between the hammer and frame when hammer comes down. It appears logical that with the cylinder rotation stop screw being out is preventing the hammer from fully engaging and (somehow in the function of the gun or lack thereof) keeping the gun from completing it's cycle

NOTE: I just noticed also when I open the loading gate and then pull the hammer back as far as I can under those conditions (almost at what would be a single action army loading position) I CAN rotate the cylinder (with a SAA ticking effect as the cylinder runs along the hand/paw)

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

With the loading gate open the cylinder latch is supposed to be lowered to release the cylinder. If it does not lower enough to free the cylinder, either the latch or gate spring are damaged. If you look at the latch (out of the gun) you will see a cylinder shaped piece that sticks out the side of it. When the loading gate is opened,the gate spring contacts this cylinderical piece and lowers the cylinder latch to free the cylinder. I think what is happening is, you have to pull the hammer back part way so the hammer plunger can lower the cylinder latch and free the cylinder. Your revolver still has damaged parts inside.
I would replace the loading gate spring, cylinder latch,cylinder latch spring and plunger first. Also your reverse indexing PAWL,and spring. I would run a tap into the hole that the reverse indexing pawl goes in untill the hex set screw can be seated flush with the hammer mortice. All other internal parts need to be checked for damage and proper operation.
Again, I suggest it be sent to Ruger.
When Properly fitted and assembled, these guns are tough,dependable and will last a lifetime.
Some people can wreck an anvil with a rubber hammer.
Good luck!

Note, the hammer will not go " all the way down when fired". At that instant it is resting on the transfer bar untill the trigger is allowed to reset.

 

[powder smoke]

The Ruger Single Action Revolvers by Jerry Kuhnhausen.

I'm no pistol or Revolver smith by any stretch of the imagination. That said I have
dismantled old and new models with zero issues. This book will allow you to tinker
to your hearts desire without issues. Really!! Very Nice Shop Manual. ps

 

[mohavesam]

"Why are Ruger revolers so fragile?"
I read the OP and see one issue - ignoring the factory manual.
Ruger has to fix all the things that went wrong when the owner disassembled the gun much further than the factory advised. Or is the FM supposed to not apply to someone?

I know Ruger service people who shake their heads over this all the time.
"Where in the owners manual does it say 'complete disassembly is just fine. we'll fix anything you bubba/ruin for free'? is a comment I hear more than once!