Ok silly question

[crow#2]

Or should I say chicken question lol.
Regardless of caliberwhich ionly shoot 3diff ones.
IF i always stay with starting grain loads only can i consider those loads to always be safe provided my guns are in good condition.
I reloaded alot many yrs ago but now that im older i have a more cautious thinking.

 

[Enigma]

You should be safe with the starting loads in published manuals. Granted, the loads they publish generally specify a specific bullet, primer, and brand of brass. Changing any of those adds a variable into the equation. I still watch for pressure signs even when using starting loads. You have no control over how your gun was made or remade. Be very cautious of reloading data provided on Internet forums; some people have absolutely no business loading ammo or even handling firearms!

 

[contender]

No question is silly. It's ALWAYS better to ask a question than live in doubt or wonder. Even worse,, be afraid of asking & doing something dangerous.

That said,, following loading manuals,, and using starting loads should be just fine in modern sporting arms. However,, I will say that if you get a couple of different manuals,, and study the way each load was built, AND what gun was used to get the data,, you can most often go above the starting loads. And do so very safely.

Example; A combo of powder, primer, & bullet have been chosen, and the test firearm is a "Universal Receiver." That type of firing mechanism will be different than if the test firearm is a Winchester model 94. And as such,, you will often see different results.

BUT,,,,,,,, remember,, these manuals are published data,, and that testing was done, and if published & used,, a certain amount of liability is involved for the publishers. So,, you can often go above the STARTING loads & be just fine too. As long as your firearm is a modern built one.

 

[Johnnu2]

Now that I'm very old, I refer to several different loading manuals (most of which are NEWER editions). This allows me to VERIFY what I think I'm reading and avoid errors related to my age and comprehension. It's sorta like the old: "measure twice and cut once"...
J.

 

[crow#2]

All of your guys info is very helpful. I appreciate it. I hated to sound like a chicken but the pressures in the chambers of our fireRms is nothing to toy with.
Thankyou very much

 

[crow#2]

Enigma
your statement reminded me of a guy i saw at camp Atterbury range shooting a bolt action.He would fire a round and laugh and say man thats awsome i load these babys hot. Then to load another round he would force the bolt open then he had to beat the bolt handle with a pipe or club cant remember but he would have to beat it open to get the empty brass out. He done this many times. I finally packed up and left.
I wonder if he is still around.

 

[Pál_K]

...he had to beat the bolt handle with a pipe or club cant remember but he would have to beat it open to get the empty brass out. He done this many times. I finally packed up and left.
...

That fool was not only a danger to himself, but a danger to everyone around him.

 

[crow#2]

Yep it was spectical to see.I had only been re loading a few months but i knew that was a disaster waiting to happen.

 

[s4s4u]

Loading minimum might be safe practice, but accuracy generally doesn't come in until a little more juice is put to it. At least for me that has always been the case, accuracy nodes in the upper half of data and most often in the upper 1/4. So, I guess it depends on what you want out of your gun/ammo.

 

[crow#2]

S4s4u thats tge way i remember it fro 30 yrs ago when i reloaded. My i can creep ip on the accuracy loads. The only way i know of cking pressure signs are. Loose primers or pretty flatebed primers,,, sticky extraction. Any other visual signs? Long as the above is ok and im at least a smidgent below max closer to 75% of max would this be ok. I do want the accuracy just not at a bad expense.

 

[kmoore]

All postings had great advice. I will only add that read the fine print to learn what guns if its a gun they did the testing in. This is not the norm but makes my point. 45-70. manuals list several different loading data for different types of guns. Because some can take hotter loads and others still in use can't. Some list loads of a caliber for rifles and other loads of same caliber in handguns.

 

[OLE_X_ME]

Or should I say chicken question lol.
Regardless of caliberwhich ionly shoot 3diff ones.
IF i always stay with starting grain loads only can i consider those loads to always be safe provided my guns are in good condition.
I reloaded alot many yrs ago but now that im older i have a more cautious thinking.

i have only been reloading now for just over 1 year...i am still reloading at starting charges for my 9mm and 45 ACP

i have yet to reload for my .38 special and 45 Colt LC, but they too will be at starting charge.

i only plink, i don't do competition, and i am old as well, i have no need to go bat crazy

i have been saying that in time, i will "bump up to a middle charge", but when........meh......in time........

 

[Hvymax]

You can experiment with different projectiles for accuracy at different power levels.

 

[OLE_X_ME]

You can experiment with different projectiles for accuracy at different power levels.

currently for me, i use lead cast 230 gr. RN for my 45 ACP, but when this runs down, i will go coated lead, and i prefer 230 gr. bullets.

for my 9mm, .38 special, and Colt 45 LC, lead as well.

i do have "some" copper coated 9mm on hand.

 

[Hvymax]

currently for me, i use lead cast 230 gr. RN for my 45 ACP, but when this runs down, i will go coated lead, and i prefer 230 gr. bullets.

for my 9mm, .38 special, and Colt 45 LC, lead as well.

i do have "some" copper coated 9mm on hand.

When I do workups I might get 5-7 different bullets and 2-3 powders. Depending on the gun maybe even 2-3 barrels with different cuts and twist rates.

 

[jgt]

Most of my starting loads will come out with brass all sooty and dirty. I have to get past that point to get to the accurate load. When the groups start to open up again after the accurate load, I have gone past where I want to be. I go back to the accurate load and test that until I get what I want.
In a rifle, that is the point when I tweak the things like distance off the lands, bullet crimp, case length, primer pocket uniformity, flash hole clean-up, and any different bullet shape in that weight.
In a handgun that is when I uniform case length to get uniform crimps and try different bullet shapes and seating depths.
A lot of manuals will note the most accurate load they had. Many times it is safe to drop a little below that load and work up to see if that is where your gun likes to shoot accurately.

 

[turd]

Maybe time to buy a chronograph so you know what your load is doing.