Lee has complete instructions for all their products on the website. They also offer the old standby Lee Loader in 45ACP. I started loading with the Lee Loader a long time ago and still use them for certain applications. One would want a case trimmer and deburring tool to go with it, but perfectly servicable ammo can be produced with these tools, Actually, very good rifle cartridges have been produced by me. As Walter Brennan used to say in "The Guns of Will Sonnet".... "No brag,just fact!" Crap! Just gave away my age. Get into reloading, you"ll love it. Guy
Interested in reloading
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AK*Partner
Bearcat
I started reloading back in 74 and my old rock chucker is still serving me well. I load mostly 38, 357 & 44, with a few 45's for the old 3screw blackhawk. I have almost always used speer lead bullets but do find I have a lot of lead at the end of a shoot. A few hotter jacketed shots helps "clean" the tubes. I've never tried the lazercast but will see if I can find them locally. Wow, has the price of lead ever gone up lately?
I load mainly because I like reduced loads, so does my wife and many of her friends. I figure if I can keep her and them shootng its a win win, plus I find satisfaction in doing it.
However, once I learned the basics I havn't advanced a whole lot. I find it really does not take much, as long as you take your time and pay attention to detail.
I load mainly because I like reduced loads, so does my wife and many of her friends. I figure if I can keep her and them shootng its a win win, plus I find satisfaction in doing it.
However, once I learned the basics I havn't advanced a whole lot. I find it really does not take much, as long as you take your time and pay attention to detail.
Waifer
Bearcat
I picked up the Lee Precision 40th Anniversary kit for $29 which has the Lee single stage press AND the big Lee Reloading manual. It's a deal for what you get. The manual itself is easily worth the $29 and has a wealth of useful info in it. Food for thought.
Parson Colt
Bearcat
Looks neater than mine.
Look on you tube - some folks did there own tutorial on how to use dillon 550 - very good product and it shows you how to use a progressive loader. I am a total beginner and with the advice of others and the youtube I learned the basics of reloading. I also did about a months worth of reading thy LYMAN and Speer Manuals, but that was just to get up to speed on terminology and concepts. For me,Translating knowledge into action has alot to do with what kind of reloading equipment you end up choosing to use.
It cost me about $750 for all equipment (I went with the dillon 550) which was around 400 bucks which includes one die set and then a couple of other things like tumbler and scale and bullet puller.
Now, when I stock up on components - it cost me less than $125 bucks to reload 500 of 45 or 9m - these are Oregon prices.
In the last two months of shooting - Todays factory loads prices, I almost made back my invest (really, I just shoot a whole lot more).
Reloading is great fun! ENJOY
It cost me about $750 for all equipment (I went with the dillon 550) which was around 400 bucks which includes one die set and then a couple of other things like tumbler and scale and bullet puller.
Now, when I stock up on components - it cost me less than $125 bucks to reload 500 of 45 or 9m - these are Oregon prices.
In the last two months of shooting - Todays factory loads prices, I almost made back my invest (really, I just shoot a whole lot more).
Reloading is great fun! ENJOY
Tommy Kelly
Buckeye
I started reloading about 30 yrs ago. Back then you could buy components cheap but ammo prices were cheap also. I started loading for the accuracy. Now I have 3 presses and 42 sets of dies and a lot of bullets and powder. Reloading pistol ammo you can save money at todays prices for ammo but I still load for accuracy. I shot 10 bullets out of my deer rifle over a crony and used factory ammo after 10 shots I checked and there was 320 fps difference in the fastest to slowest. I then shot my reloads 10 shots and there was 12fps difference between fastest and slowest. Quite a difference and it proved to me that realoading was paying off. I reload the slow way and set my powder measure light and trickle every load If I am going to reaload ammo I want the best load I can get and the most consistent velocity. Components are expensive but I make bullets that suit my needs and that I cant go to the store and buy factory loaded. I have 1 30 cal bullet that I really like and use it in every 30 cal rifle I shoot. from 308 to 300 ulti mag. I get exceptional accuracy and I use the bullet I like that noone makes in factory loads.
Greebe
Single-Sixer
That's a bunch of crap. Probably he was stressing that you should spend lots of money buying factory ammo from his shop. If you reload you will spend way less on ammo and be able to afford to shoot a lot more.
Don't listen to him, he obviously doesn't know what he is talking about. There is no reason you can't load for the SP101. I don't own one, but did have on on loan for years that only ate hand loaded ammo.
Just don't do double charges and you will be fine. That applies to all guns though, not just the SP101.
If you have any questions about getting started I think you might find a few of the answers above. If you don't find what you are looking for feel free to ask. I will be more than happy to answers questions as I am sure plenty of other people on this forum would be too.
Now get off that computer and start loading some ammo.
Good Luck
Greebe
Don't listen to him, he obviously doesn't know what he is talking about. There is no reason you can't load for the SP101. I don't own one, but did have on on loan for years that only ate hand loaded ammo.
Just don't do double charges and you will be fine. That applies to all guns though, not just the SP101.
If you have any questions about getting started I think you might find a few of the answers above. If you don't find what you are looking for feel free to ask. I will be more than happy to answers questions as I am sure plenty of other people on this forum would be too.
Now get off that computer and start loading some ammo.
Good Luck
Greebe
Lost Sheep
Single-Sixer
jaypee":3awep0nu said:
Yes, you should.
I imagine that no manufacturer recommends handloads/reloads. Too much liability. But all manufacturers recognize that handloads are used. Any properly equipped person can produce ammunition 100% as safe as any commercial manufacturer.
The reasonable answer is that if you can operate and maintain your revolver safely, you can reload (with care).
Slipping into my curmudgeon hat for a moment, "If you are too dumb to reload, you are too dumb to shoot."
As always, believe only half of what you see and a quarter of what you hear. That goes double for what you find on the internet.
As for the gun dealer, I wonder how much he knows about firearms. Some people are just shopkeepers, some people are enthusiasts. (The "shopkeeper" is not meant to slight him; I expect he is sincere and well-meaning, just not as well-informed as you soon will be.)
Lost Sheep
Lost Sheep
Single-Sixer
I have thought of a few things I think are useful for handloaders to know or to consider which seem to be almost universal. So much is a matter of personal taste and circumstance, though. So, all advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".
Bonus advice: Advice zero, if you will, Why load?
At the same time as I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. However, most shooters will not realize any savings at all. Instead of shooting for 1/4 the ammo cost, you will shoot four times as much for the same cost. However, handloading can be more than a means to an end (money savings or increased accuracy), it can be a satisfying hobby in itself.
Now, here are my Ten Advices.
Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.
Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of money on equipment.
I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offerings in your local library. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging.
Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well. As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)
The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. You also get better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.
The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.
There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.
Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.
Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack.
Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?
Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Lee makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you thing Ford/Cheby owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better. RCBS equipment is almost all green, Dillon, blue, Lee red. Almost no manufacturers cross color lines and many handloaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. Make your own choices.
On Kits: Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is decent way to get started. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least..
Advice #3 While Learning, don't get fancy. Progressive or Single Stage? Experimental loads?
While you are learning, load mid-range at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the loading steps right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a "fluffy" powder that is, one that will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it.
Learn on a single stage press or a turret press. Do not learn on a progressive press. Too many things happen at the same time, thus are hard to keep track of. Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE AT A TIME. Until handloading becomes second nature to you.
Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke.
Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of every reloader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. They always keep at least one.
Advice #4 Find a mentor.
There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")
I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.
After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.
Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, cleanliness
When I started reloading, I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2" x 6" plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table My loading gear all fit in a footlocker and spread out on the coffeetable and the lid of the footlocker. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but now it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" (as some describe thier setups) would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.
You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for a floor covering when you pick your reloading room/workspace. I would not try to vacuum up spilt gunpowder unless using a Rainbow vacuum which uses water as the filter medium.
Advice #6 Keep Current on loading tecnology
Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Powder chemistry has changed over the years. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual andthen triple check with the powder maker.
Read previous threads on reloading, here are a couple I read.
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewfor ... ae1f754eec
The second one is a thread started by a new recruit to reloading which the moderators thought highly enough of to make it "sticky" so it stays on the top of the list of threads.
Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)
When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying.
Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies (or Titanium Nitride)
T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.
Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.
Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children. Enough said?
Advice #10 Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and frequently hit "7" instead of "4" because the are next to each other on the keypad.
Good luck.
Lost Sheep
Bonus advice: Advice zero, if you will, Why load?
At the same time as I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. However, most shooters will not realize any savings at all. Instead of shooting for 1/4 the ammo cost, you will shoot four times as much for the same cost. However, handloading can be more than a means to an end (money savings or increased accuracy), it can be a satisfying hobby in itself.
Now, here are my Ten Advices.
Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.
Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of money on equipment.
I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offerings in your local library. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging.
Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well. As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)
The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. You also get better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.
The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.
There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.
Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.
Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack.
Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?
Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Lee makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you thing Ford/Cheby owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better. RCBS equipment is almost all green, Dillon, blue, Lee red. Almost no manufacturers cross color lines and many handloaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. Make your own choices.
On Kits: Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is decent way to get started. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least..
Advice #3 While Learning, don't get fancy. Progressive or Single Stage? Experimental loads?
While you are learning, load mid-range at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the loading steps right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a "fluffy" powder that is, one that will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it.
Learn on a single stage press or a turret press. Do not learn on a progressive press. Too many things happen at the same time, thus are hard to keep track of. Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE AT A TIME. Until handloading becomes second nature to you.
Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke.
Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of every reloader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. They always keep at least one.
Advice #4 Find a mentor.
There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")
I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.
After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.
Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, cleanliness
When I started reloading, I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2" x 6" plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table My loading gear all fit in a footlocker and spread out on the coffeetable and the lid of the footlocker. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but now it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" (as some describe thier setups) would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.
You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for a floor covering when you pick your reloading room/workspace. I would not try to vacuum up spilt gunpowder unless using a Rainbow vacuum which uses water as the filter medium.
Advice #6 Keep Current on loading tecnology
Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Powder chemistry has changed over the years. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual andthen triple check with the powder maker.
Read previous threads on reloading, here are a couple I read.
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewfor ... ae1f754eec
The second one is a thread started by a new recruit to reloading which the moderators thought highly enough of to make it "sticky" so it stays on the top of the list of threads.
Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)
When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying.
Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies (or Titanium Nitride)
T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.
Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.
Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children. Enough said?
Advice #10 Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and frequently hit "7" instead of "4" because the are next to each other on the keypad.
Good luck.
Lost Sheep
A bunch of great posts, as usual. It looks like I'm getting ready to "bite the bullet" (pun intended) and start reloading again after a 25 year hiatus. I used to have an old Rockchucker, and loaded 38/357, 44mag, and 45 Long Colt. I got divorced, sold most of my handguns and all my reloading gear, and went "on the prowl". Now, married again for 23 years, buying back handguns (autos this time) and now I can't find ammo to shoot! So, I just ordered a Lee Turret press with all of the necessary stuff to get started back. I'll now be loading for 9mm, 40S&W, and 45acp. I'm sure it will all come back to me pretty quickly, but don't be surprised if I'm asking questions pretty frequently until I get the hang of it again!
Get as many manuals as you can and READ them. Mean while go here http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ Never guess get a good scale and refer to the manuals often.
Link Jones
Bearcat
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2010
- Messages
- 3
If you don't have a buddy who reloads (apparently you don't], a used reloading manual is a good start. I cut my teeth with a Lee hand loading tool (which I still have) for 30/30 Winchester using only cases fired in the rifle for which I was reloading for. That was 30 plus years ago and I still have the tool.
Regarding costs - Bullets will be the most expensive item followed by primers and powder. This is after you secure the necessary tools. There is nothing wrong with good used equipment, but stick to current major brands (RCBS, Lee, Lyman, etc) to insure you can get parts. Check Midway to get an idea of prices in general. Call Midway 800-243-3220 for a free catalogue
Regarding costs - Bullets will be the most expensive item followed by primers and powder. This is after you secure the necessary tools. There is nothing wrong with good used equipment, but stick to current major brands (RCBS, Lee, Lyman, etc) to insure you can get parts. Check Midway to get an idea of prices in general. Call Midway 800-243-3220 for a free catalogue
3leggeddog
Single-Sixer
ontrack":19exj62g said:
It will be in your best interest to get a new reload manual. I just got the NEW "Lyman Third Edition PISTOL + REVOLVER " hand book . It has the latest powder /loads for all the different calibers. Its the best $20.00 I've spent. I trust this book,I've seem lately a internet chart download that had a few VERY hot loads- too hot. Stay safe!!!!
cedarcreek
Bearcat
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2010
- Messages
- 59
Just to get a look at reloading checkout YouTube. Reloading for me is more than saving money. I like the feeling of accomplishement when Im done and stacking my new reloads. It also makes for a good hobby during bad weather.
I've reloaded for over 40 yrs. My first reloading setup was a washer placed on the end of a piece of 6" pipe, a 357 bullet mould, a scale, plumber's bob, nail, board, hammer handle, lee hand lubisizer, and a cast iron pot for reloading 357 Mag. My first commerical reloader was the Lyman 310 tool.
My current reloading equipment includes many mould, dies, RBCS single stage presses, a Decker press for travel reloading, 10-10 scale,Hotnaday and little Dandy powder measures, Lee melting pot.
To begin reloading, you do not need expensive equipment, only imagination. :lol:
My current reloading equipment includes many mould, dies, RBCS single stage presses, a Decker press for travel reloading, 10-10 scale,Hotnaday and little Dandy powder measures, Lee melting pot.
To begin reloading, you do not need expensive equipment, only imagination.
:lol:Reloading is a great hobby! You can definately spend a lot of money in equipment if you want. I love Lee stuff, it is inexpensive comprared to others, has a 2 year warranty and lifetime 1/2 price refurb policy. Some of the stuff is plastic and aluminum (hence low price) but I have had zero failures in the equipment I have - some is pushing 20 years, and MANY thousand rounds. I would go straight to a lee turret starter set, add some calipers,book, odds and ends and you would be going about $200 with all new equipment ready to roll. Don't forget cost of primers,powder, and bullets would need to be added. It would take some use to repay investment, but as I said it's a great hobby in itself!
ozark777
Bearcat
Maddy345 said:
I was just getting ready to post this question as well... thanks everyone for all the info and resources!
I feel like jumping into the reloading game is/can-be dangerous, especially when I'm learning on my own. At least when I learned to shoot I had my dad showing me the ropes.
SweetWilliam
Buckeye
He probably was trying to sell you some of his over priced ammo he's had on the self for 30yrs.jaypee said:
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