10/22 Barrel Band Screw?

[RickMessNC]

OK, yes I am a noob and this is probably the "dumbest" question ever asked, but here goes...why is the barrel band screw on a 10/22 Takedown so long? Seems it could get snagged pretty easily. Am I missing something? Is there another use for that screw that I am unaware of? Thank you for not laughing too hard.

 

[RC44Mag]

Just checked mine it was bought new, it's a wood stocked 10/22 in the 80's. It's quite a deal shorter than yours. Length on the end is about as long as yours where the threads stop and mine has no threads past the clamp itself. maybe Screw for wood v synthetic stock are different for some reason? Perhaps yours isn't a stock screw for the 10/22 or they changed them for some reason, maybe for sling attachment ? Honestly, I wouldn't be concerned if I were you.

 

[hittman]

Welcome to the forum.

Nothing wrong with being w newbie.
No question is too "basic".

No idea why it's that long. Maybe somebody replaced it? Does your owners manual give it's size and you know it's the right one?

 

[RickMessNC]

Thanks. This is a new rifle - just took it out of the box a week ago. No upgrades. Unaltered 10/22 Takedown, Synthetic Stock, 16.4 inch barrel. Just a curious question. I do know it will have no affect on the shooting - that's on me.

 

[arcticruger]

That does look a little long, usually don't see much for threads past the band. I don't have access to my 10/22s at the moment. Not sure of the difference between the metal alloy and poly barrel bands other than the poly bands use nuts, but some models or variants came with a sling mount in the band.

Here's a pic of a 1994 and 2007 w/sling mount. These have the metal bands with no nut.

 

[WAYNO]

You'll find the clamped area on the fore-end varies somewhat between two seemingly identical rifles. The clamp has to spread a lot farther to fit on some fore-ends. If you take the screw completely out, it's easier to spread the clamp, but then it can be difficult to preserve the hole alignment while pinching the clamp together. A long screw makes it easier to remove the clamp without completely removing the screw, and if you do need to remove the screw, the self-aligning screw tenon helps get the screw threads started easier without stripping the threads in the clamp. Yes, you can shorten the screw, but the next time you need to reinstall the screw, you just might wish the screw was longer. I have clamps where the same screw barely protrudes, and some that it protrudes greatly. To me it's a non issue. If it's offensive, cut it off.

Additionally, the synthetic stocks I've found to be narrower at the clamped area, making the screw protrude farther.

And if you install a clamp-mounted front swivel, keeping everything aligned while assembling, you'll appreciate this long screw. The more you spread the clamp, the more hole misalignment you create.

.

 

[Uncle Howie]

I don't have any 10/22s with the plastic barrel clamp, but I think that every one I've owned has had a screw that looked "long," like yours.

There is lots of good information in this thread, including using the screw like a lineup tool, your ability to trim the screw, and the forends having slightly different sizes.

I also like the swivel stud that mounts on the barrel band… it just looks "clean" to me.

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum!

As noted,, NO question is too dumb, as long as it's asked honestly.

Education isn't born into us,, we have to learn things. And by asking questions is how we learn stuff.

Glad to have you here,,,! Another Tarheel!

And it looks like you got some good info above.

 

[Captain America]

Here's mine, looks almost identical to the OP…

 

[Mobuck]

'You'll find the clamped area on the fore-end varies somewhat between two seemingly identical rifles. '
^^^ THIS^^^
One part that's capable of covering all the variations

 

[GasGuzzler]

The answer to a question like this is usually a bean counter found using one version of a certain part across the board saves a part of a cent per unit times however many they make. There are DOZENS of Ruger barrel bands for the 10/22 and the modern way is to make one bolt fit them all.

Plus, it's a "pull closed" band so it has to be long enough to safely engage threads to close the gap with stripping out.

 

[ruger66]

That screw is used on all the barrel bands I believe. Originally it was designed so you could put the flat band swivel for a sling. For the 44 carbine and a 10/22.

 

[Hondo44]

I had the same question many years ago!

All posts above are correct. And Ruger 66 has added the final piece to the puzzle. Very early on this model came with sling loops, that were stamped flat steel bent into shape like those on the Mini 14.

The two loop flanges are placed over the barrel band lips then the screw was inserted thru loop flanges and band lips, screwed into the threaded lip and tightened. The two loop flanges with unthreaded holes allowed the loop to freely move. The two flanges used up more of the screw's length which looked correct.

But that loop is not quickly detachable like the later version shown above which is designed for quick detachable after market sling swivels. And of course does not need the extra long screw, but which is still used on most 10-22s.

 

[RickMessNC]

Welcome to the Forum!

As noted,, NO question is too dumb, as long as it's asked honestly.

Education isn't born into us,, we have to learn things. And by asking questions is how we learn stuff.

Glad to have you here,,,! Another Tarheel!

And it looks like you got some good info above.

Thank you. Heading to Lake Lure next week sometime.

 

[amishjeff]

Mine appears to be the same length but it is NOT a takedown model. I never paid attention to it before and have never been bothered by it.

 

[rugerguy]

spot on, "One size fits all" as well as the point to it being like a "guide" to boot when loosening it to remove and replace , no need to take it all the way out, and / or also to use the 'handy dandy' Uncle Mikes front sling swivel adaptor.....genious

 

[wv.citybilly]

I helped a fellow at the range with a Ruger 10/22, who was attempting to sight in, but still a little off.
1) I explained the screw holding the receiver to the stock should be torqued, and set his to the same as mine.
2) I explained why he should remove the barrel band altogether.

That immediately tightened his groups. My Ruger 10/22 (after much work and wanting to break it over a tree at first) hits targets up to 200yds.

Your mileage may vary.

 

[GasGuzzler]

Now loosen the screw you torqued and watch the groups shrink more. Or maybe tighten his and do the same. That's a value that is not absolute.

 

[wv.citybilly]

Now loosen the screw you torqued and watch the groups shrink more. Or maybe tighten his and do the same. That's a value that is not absolute.

Ignored.