Working on a Presentation case for a Blackhawk

[jimbo1096]

My hope is to get one of my 45colt Blackhawks fancied up and to build a presentation case to gift to my son as a heirloom gift. I have some black walnut and may build it out of that if I can't find something else I like. I plan on a small sterling silver plaque on the lid with his name and "presented by:" below. Question for those with knowledge on the subject, has anyone else done a similar project? Any makers of nice presentation cases to fit a 4 5/8" Blackhawk? If I decide to build the case or at least the insert and velvet lining, anything to do to reduce chances of rust and finish damage? I have built the interiors of cases before, with open cell foam cut to the gun's contour and with nice fabric or velvet covering.
Thanks for any suggestions
Jim H

 

[Chief 101]

My thoughts, select some nice wood, and hardware...instead of fabric on the inside, a nice wood layout...I hand cut the dovetails on this one but there are other methods if you don't do dovetails.

 

[Bob Wright]

Woodworkers Supply has the felt to line presentation cases. This helps protect the gun from the elements and preserve the finish.

Many years ago the head of our engineering department made a period style case for a Remington cap-and-ball revolver with accessories. Used that old fashioned crushed velvet lining. Looked authentic for the period.

Bob Wright


Bob Wright

 

[rugerguy]

all that being said, bottom line is it is just that a "presentation " case......those are NOT meant for any long term storage, no matter what you line it with or NOT line it with, the material will either rub, attract moisture, or cause speckling, even pitting, to the guns surface that it touches....since our shops and refinishig going back to the last 60s, we've seen FAR too many guns over those years that were RUINED by being left in ANY "presentation" case, S&W, Colts, old Rugers ( Supers, RSSE, guns) and on and on...........
so just hand build a NICE wooden case , make the liner, or dividers out of what ever YOU like, looks nice and cover it with felt, or silk or whatever.......put on the " name plate", heck you can even get some nice ones at places like "Things Remembered", make it "personal"...........
to some the building of the case is a 'labor of love'.......... :wink:

( ps a lot of the wear you see on many guns is just from sitting, laying in the box ( they call it box burn),,,put a gun in a box and drive across the country and SEE what happens 8) :roll:

 

[RoninPA]

Jim H - look at pictures of the mahogany cases that Ruger first used with the Superblackhawk and lay out and cut like that. Then use nice thick felt to line the bottom with the cutout piece holding the felt in place and outlining the gun. These are very nice and probably wouldn't be real hard to replicate. You could also flock the vertical parts of the gun outline so the gun doesn't bang against the bare wood.

This would make a nice presentation to whoever gets it and they can then store the gun however they want but they will always have the case to show it and the gun off if they want.

 

[GunnyGene]

I've made a few. Here's 3 of them.

This one has a false bottom for stashing money, documents, etc.

Advise: Don't cheap out on the hardware for it. Get the good hinges, etc., not what you find at some local hardware store. That means Brusso hardware. It ain't cheap and requires some skill to install, but it's absolutely worth it. It's the only hardware I use on my small boxes. A pair of hinges and a lid support will run about $50. A small box lock (if you want one) varies from about $8 to $50 depending on what you get.

You can get the hinges you will need at http://www.leevalley.com/us/Hardware/page.aspx?p=41454&cat=3,41419 and lid supports at http://www.leevalley.com/us/Hardware/page.aspx?p=40477&cat=3,41419

 

[Joe S.]

Those are beautiful!

 

[GunnyGene]

Those are beautiful!

Thanks. The key to making small boxes like this, whether for a handgun or something else, is meticulous planning and getting all the materials (hardware, finish, etc.) together, and the necessary tools tuned up/sharpened, before cutting any wood. As for cutting/joinery, there's many options - finger joints, dovetails, mitered corners with or without splines, etc. Nothing looks worse on a otherwise fine box than sloppy joinery - and nothing shouts fine craftsmanship better than tight, well fitted joinery. I've tossed nearly complete work on the fire and started over because of a single screw up on a joint.

 

[jimbo1096]

GunnyGene, you have the right idea of what I was thinking. Good input. I'm still in the planning stages.

 

[GunnyGene]

GunnyGene, you have the right idea of what I was thinking. Good input. I'm still in the planning stages.

An added note, that I forgot earlier. If you use stryofoam, don't carve it out. Get a piece about 1" thick that is relatively easily compressed with your finger. You can find this at places like Hobbylobby. Press the gun down into it to make an impression, then deepen if needed by compressing it farther with a spoon. Make the final impression slightly larger than the gun outline to accomodate whatever fabric you plan to use, and it should be deep enough so that about 1/2 the thickness of the gun is in the impression.

 

[woodsy]

I made a walnut case for my Mark 1, a long time ago. It is still in first-class shape. It holds the pistol, one extra mag, and a 50-box of cartridges. All the inserts are wood. All the interior is covered in felt, glued to the wood. DO NOT USE FOAM. Foam has a nasty habit of degrading over time, all by itself. Then it simply falls apart, and one is lucky if the object being nestled does not become coated in literally crap. I am also a retired furniture maker (not a cabinet maker, but furniture). Take extra care during working the wood because walnut is poisonous. The only part of a walnut tree which is not poisonous is the meat inside the shells. Again, DO NOT USE FOAM.
I emphasize my cautions because they are very real.