Want recommendation on a gunsmith to polish-up a GP100 action

[oldcrab]

Good morning!
I have a stainless GP100 357 magnum I want to get polished up in the action.
I want to keep the existing hammer spring, just want to smooth out the action and have trigger and/or hammer shims installed if needed.

I live in the Seattle-area, and have made several calls and the smiths I have talked to aren't revolver-folks with experience on the Ruger GP100.

Do you have someone who has successfully done this kind of work for you? (Name/phone-number and/or business name??)

(Please don't reply that I should do it myself..... I want a good "pro" to do it rather than rely on my non-existent experience, proper tools, etc.)

Thanks, and have a super weekend!!

Crab

 

[dannyd]

Understand you don't want to do yourself, but finding a gunsmith is probably going to hard, so contact Ruger and explain to them the action is ruff. Can I send the GP to you to have it cleaned up.

Because very few GP100's are used in competition shooting Gunsmiths are hard to find unless you want really upscale work. (600 to 1500 dollar range).

 

[rugerguy]

,,,,,free, cheap and easy advice...you can do some yourself,,,,,I've seen over the years some folks simply take some sort of polishing lube/compound, like Lubriplate ,used for installing cam shafts and slather it in the guns innards and dry fire it , over and over, also builds up your arm, hand and trigger strength as well as , actually wears the parts to each other , in the gun ,much like hand fitting and polishing and the parts are matched to YOUR gun ,and NOT some trick "gunsmith" jig fixture...the same things happens with "use" (time) in just shooting but at todays cost of ammo. would cost a fortune to build in wear ( polishing) as well as lightening with use,,,just look at about any old timers firearm, how nice and slick the action will be just from "use"....and I recall back in the late 50s and early 60s some old timers even used toothpaste....I kid you not.
...and yes I had three gun shops over the years doing service and warranty work for 3 different gun companies, and local LE/Pds in the Cleveland,OHio area.......been retired since 2002.........
..........and you can always get one or more of the late Jerry Kunhausen gunsmithing the Ruger Revolvers, and do some real informative reading......

 

[contender]

Our own member here,, "RoninPa" is pretty good at working on these guns. Maybe he'll see this soon & chime in.

rugerguy has said you can do some yourself,, but your OP says you want a pro.

Ron can offer help,, but if you'd want it done by him,, shipping to Pa might be a sticky issue for you. Ron is a FFL though.

 

[RoninPA]

Yes, I do work/specialize on GP100's and the Security Six series of revolvers. I've been working on them since 1989 when I was competing in PPC matches.

As Contender said I am located in central PA. Shipping isn't really difficult, the difficult part is that it is a handgun and as such you (the owner) cannot ship it through USPS and because of the new regs that UPS and FedEx have put in place it makes things a little harder. However, if you know a FFL who will ship it for you, HE can ship it via USPS as FFL's are allowed to ship handguns via USPS. Shipping by USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate box is much cheaper than UPS or FedEx (unless the FFL has an account with them and ships a lot through them (read that as the FFL spends a lot of money with them - then the FFL can possibily get a reduced rate). I ship all guns by USPS and in over 25 years I have never had one come up missing or stolen. After doing the work, the firearm can be shipped directly back to you or to your FFL if you want to do it that way. This is perfectly legal per the BATFE.

You can PM (conversation) me and I can give you more info about my work and rates.

 

[dannyd]

I had to learn to fix any problems on my GP100 in 1989 after talking to a very good gunsmith reminded me that it was not a S&W. He only worked on Smith's.

 

[JackBull]

,,,,,free, cheap and easy advice...you can do some yourself,,,,,I've seen over the years some folks simply take some sort of polishing lube/compound, like Lubriplate ,used for installing cam shafts and slather it in the guns innards and dry fire it , over and over, also builds up your arm, hand and trigger strength as well as , actually wears the parts to each other ,

I dont think Lubriplate is a polishing compound. Were you thinking of Clover Compound?

 

[rugerguy]

not a surface on the outside but it is for the camshafts installation to "polish" the lobes to the lifters, thus it "polished" the matching parts not to be used as a "
outside the gun, the bluing surface...terminology, "polish " or is it "polish....you can use it on the rails of such as a 1911 slide and frame, "polishes" the "mating" parts.........
all polishes , even toothpaste or jewelers rouge are an "abrasive" just finer, and finer......

and yes I agree with Ty and I know Ron quite well and is one of the very few I would send the Rugers DAs to,,,but as I said in my "lead" it was to try and save YOU time ,and money ( expense) and just simply "use it" as they say "break it in"...besides, its MORE "fun" and great practice.......

 

[JParker47]

Good morning!
I have a stainless GP100 357 magnum I want to get polished up in the action.
I want to keep the existing hammer spring, just want to smooth out the action and have trigger and/or hammer shims installed if needed.

I live in the Seattle-area, and have made several calls and the smiths I have talked to aren't revolver-folks with experience on the Ruger GP100.

Do you have someone who has successfully done this kind of work for you? (Name/phone-number and/or business name??)

(Please don't reply that I should do it myself..... I want a good "pro" to do it rather than rely on my non-existent experience, proper tools, etc.)

Thanks, and have a super weekend!!

Crab

Check out MCarbo. He has a vid on YouTube on how to do it yourself. He also runs a business that will do it for you and sells you parts if you are so inclined. I actually followed his vid years ago, stripped my G100 to bare bones. It's not for the faint of heart. It's very ZEN orientated, like reloading, without a progressive press, HIGH ATTION TO DETAIL. focus, focus, focus. I would never do it again. But from owning many GP100 & SP101 over the years, my takeaway is metal on metal will polish itself over time, just shoot it. However, my father being a master machinist, said you can't oil a spring, but I say, you can oil the hole it goes in. HA...Good luck BRO. Changing springs is really easy. I love Ruges DA Revolvers.

 

[JParker47]

,,,,,free, cheap and easy advice...you can do some yourself,,,,,I've seen over the years some folks simply take some sort of polishing lube/compound, like Lubriplate ,used for installing cam shafts and slather it in the guns innards and dry fire it , over and over, also builds up your arm, hand and trigger strength as well as , actually wears the parts to each other , in the gun ,much like hand fitting and polishing and the parts are matched to YOUR gun ,and NOT some trick "gunsmith" jig fixture...the same things happens with "use" (time) in just shooting but at todays cost of ammo. would cost a fortune to build in wear ( polishing) as well as lightening with use,,,just look at about any old timers firearm, how nice and slick the action will be just from "use"....and I recall back in the late 50s and early 60s some old timers even used toothpaste....I kid you not.
...and yes I had three gun shops over the years doing service and warranty work for 3 different gun companies, and local LE/Pds in the Cleveland,OHio area.......been retired since 2002.........
..........and you can always get one or more of the late Jerry Kunhausen gunsmithing the Ruger Revolvers, and do some real informative reading......

A++ brother. we are on the same page with shooting the heck out a revolver may very well loosen up/polishing the metal on metal. It will not compensate for the spring drag, which has to be dealt separately.

 

[GasGuzzler]

(Please don't reply that I should do it myself..... I want a good "pro" to do it rather than rely on my non-existent experience, proper tools, etc.)

Never mind.

 

[Boxhead]

Rather helpful...

 

[GasGuzzler]

Yep. Everyone seems to agree he should do it himself.