Type of wood?

Look at the end-grain. Walnut has very defined growth rings.

wood walnut endgrain.jpg


Mahogany is less defined, much like the end-grain in the OP

wood mahogany endgrain.jpg


End-grain in the pic in the OP looks quartersawn as well, vertical, adding to the mystery.
 
Looks like mahogany to me.

There are less expensive grades of mahogany that were painted. If it was original with factory finish and original hardware (no matter condition) it could be worth a considerable figure. Now you just have an old quality piece of furniture. Strip it and paint it. You tube has plenty of options for distressing finishes or other options. Still a big investment of time for something “free”. But if you enjoy doing it you’ll have a nice piece to display
 
I love a good bargain. I found this desk last month with the bulk trash. It’s a quality piece, real wood. Any guesses what type of wood it is? I sanded down one drawer front and it looks like they used another piece to make the drawer taller.

I’m not sure if it’s worth restoring. My daughter said to strip off the paint and stain it. But with that drawer front I don’t know.

Any comments welcome. It’s from Nashville, TN from “Davis, Furniture.”

Yes, that is the desk sitting on my front porch. I've got to do something with it. My wife comes home next week and I don't think she wants to see this any longer. :)

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I'm just not sure what type of wood it is. It isn't Oak or Pine, that's for sure. The whole thing is VERY heavy. And it's very well made.

Would a reputable cabinet maker back in the day used paint grade wood? With the splice on the drawer front, that was my first thought. It was just meant for the paint department, not staining.

View attachment 86192
If you choose not to paint, you might try staining the back of the drawer front to see if the lighter wood blends with the darker, before staining the front. My preference is for staining, but I like the beauty of wood.
 
There are less expensive grades of mahogany that were painted. If it was original with factory finish and original hardware (no matter condition) it could be worth a considerable figure. Now you just have an old quality piece of furniture. Strip it and paint it. You tube has plenty of options for distressing finishes or other options. Still a big investment of time for something “free”. But if you enjoy doing it you’ll have a nice piece to display

One other thing, if it were intended to be painted they very well could have used all kinds of leftover "scrap" hardwoods in combination. The top of that desk looks nothing like that drawer front.
 
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Sand what you can but not too much. Leave it "distressed " with paint in the pores ( like the top and front drawer is now) ,,,,,,,,, maybe even streak in some more in contrasting muted colors.
Cover with flat Polyurethane and put it in the back yard.
Tell her she can put plants on it, and she will love it.
That's a fun piece but for full on restoration choose your battles. That one is not a hill to die on.
 
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Thank you all. I've read all the comments a few times. There is such a wealth of information here, it's greatly appreciated.

I will probably restore it somewhat. When I'm done I'll post some pictures.
 
Thank you all. I've read all the comments a few times. There is such a wealth of information here, it's greatly appreciated.

I will probably restore it somewhat. When I'm done I'll post some pictures.
It's a nice survivor, furniture like that should never be sent to a dump.
 
It is walnut with a piece of walnut sapwood added. Done on lower cost furniture. It would probably have had stain. Sapwood can be stained to match the other color. If you need a 7" wide piece and only have 6" wide you glue a strip on to get the 7". I would refinish and use a walnut stain to get the wood all about the same color. If you don't like the color or look after you are done sale for $100-$200. If you refinish you will probably find other glue ups.
 
A number of years back I restored an old sewing cabinet for my son to do his schoolwork on. Over the Yeats it had been "distressed" plenty. After enough sanding to take the sharp edges of the dings of the drawers and legs, lots more sanding and backfilling with white glue and sawdust filler on the top, I was ready to put on finish. My neighbor who was a floor guy and a woodworking hobby guy told me the filler would stain a different color. He suggested a technique where you apply a couple coats of Sanding Sealer, sand (duh) and wipe on the stain of your choice but don't wipe it off. Instead you create a streaked grain pattern with a dry paintbrush. Even though it sounded like too much work, it wasn't, and produced a nice even, and eye-pleasing finish.
Your Mileage May Vary
 
Sand what you can but not too much. Leave it "distressed " with paint in the pores ( like the top and front drawer is now) ,,,,,,,,, maybe even streak in some more in contrasting muted colors.
Cover with flat Polyurethane and put it in the back yard.
Tell her she can put plants on it, and she will love it.
That's a fun piece but for full on restoration choose your battles. That one is not a hill to die on.
Good practuce/learning/experimentation, even if lacking what some would call presentation. It seems to be good old walnut, not select matched for varnish or stain but meant to be painted, itsells cheaper that way and good training for apprentice work. if solid and in working order is a useful project and a continued useful object, but i wouldnt put it out in the weather simply because its not a chippendale; that would destroy it. Better to use it for firewood or broken up for smaller wood projects like 100 sets of 1911 panels, and some nice saa grips
Adit. A bit surprised to see no evidence of gold paint in the edges.
 
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I have a dresser that is real wood but has real wood veneer. It's really old and it seems like that would be more expensive and time consuming that making out of single pieces of wood.

You are just itching for a fight, aren't you?!?
No, I operate under the belief words have a meaning and I see no fight.
 
I worked at a wood shop after high school. We would make cabinet fronts and drawer fronts. We would always try to color match the wood prior to gluing up to eliminate the big contrast in the wood. The wood was ripped into different widths to get rid of knots and any other imperfections, then glued together.
 
I worked at a wood shop after high school. We would make cabinet fronts and drawer fronts. We would always try to color match the wood prior to gluing up to eliminate the big contrast in the wood. The wood was ripped into different widths to get rid of knots and any other imperfections, then glued together.
I worked for a week as sawyer at a furniture shop. They used alder for framing, and my job was to make the most useful amounts of board, in certain widths and lengths, from cured rough lumber, and to use everything but the knots, which went in the nearby woodstove. As did treated waferboard scraps; burning the plastic glue in the manufactured wood made me so sick i left. They dident match the boards since they were covered with upholstery.
 

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