trimming new ,44 spcl cases

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Ok, it is all you alls fault. :shock: I never would have thought anything about it, but there are those on here that insist on minutia, and here I am trying it out. :roll: I have a couple hundred new Starline brass that range in length from 1.271 to 1.278 inches. My Lee trimmer doesn't touch any of them! :evil: So now the question is how far into the cutter do you screw the guide? Finger tight or grab a pair of pliers til tight? Or what? Is .007 of an inch not enough to worry with? Minutia experts I need your input. :D
gramps
 

Enigma

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In order to obtain a uniform, consistent roll crimp, all the cases need to be the same length - or as close as possible. What you're experiencing is one drawback to the Lee trimmers - they're not adjustable. For what you want to do, I think you're going to need a bench-mounted case trimmer. I suppose that you could shorten the pin that goes through the flash hole the appropriate amount and try it that way. If that worked, I would mark that one to identify it (spray paint, or something), and order a new one to use if the brass ever grows far enough to need trimming - which ain't likely. Revolver brass tends to shorten over time, rather than grow.

To answer your question, I tighten the guide rod finger tight, then just snug it up with pliers so it won't come loose during use.
 

Cholo

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I run all new brass thru my carbide sizer die. I then trim them to as close to 1.150/1.160 as I can get. I've had to shorten the pin on one, but that was the only one. Another cut them way too short and LEE sent me a new pin that was right on. I finger tighten the pin and then wrap a rag around the base and tighten it with pliers.
 

Chuck 100 yd

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I have found that most straight walled handgun brass gets shorter after the first firing. Then I trim all to the same length and forget it until they eventually end up in the scrap bucket. As stated above the case length will affect the crimp quality but if you buy a Lee Factory Crimp Die it will compensate for that difference to a large degree. If the brass is below maximum length when new, load and shoot it once and then check the length.
 

Jimbo357mag

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+1 Be sure to size cases first then trim. Finger tight on the gage or you might damage the cutters. You can grind or file the pin shorter or use a small washer to make the case length gage longer. :D
 
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Thanks guys. I guess I'll just shoot them. I don't have extra cash to buy anything at present. I do have a Lee FCD, but stopped using it, and voila my loads are now accurate. It had been sizing them too much.
gramps
 
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Grinding on something to make adjustments is out of the realm of possibility for me. I don't have the aptitude to make it right. Past experience shows I will damage it beyond use!
Thanks anyway,
gramps
 

Precision32

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I've loaded 44 spl & mag for a long time and never have trimmed any of them. I use a mild crimp and never had an issue. YRMV
 

Rick Courtright

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Hi,

Nice thing about reloading is there are many ways to achieve the same end result, so if their ammo works as they want it to, the guys who trim are no more right nor wrong than the guys who don't! :)

For myself, Starline was the brand that convinced me to start treating my new (or "new to me") handgun brass the way I do new rifle brass: size it, then trim it, followed by a chamfer/deburr. Works for me, and it doesn't cost anyone else a second of time or the tiniest bit of energy for me to do it! I've yet to find any which has needed a second trim, and the crimp process is a bit more consistent for me...

As to the "how tight" part of the question, I stick a small screwdriver into the slot on the threaded end to spread the arms a touch. Then the gauge screws in with a bit of resistance, and I tighten it ever so slightly with a scrap of leather between it and pliers. If I spread the arms, the gauge seldom works loose in the cutter head. If I don't, it does!

Rick C
 

Chuck 100 yd

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If you like to shoot oversized cast bullets ,then the Lee FCD is not for you. The carbide ring will reduce the bullet diameter to around .452 for .45 caliber and so it goes.
 

Precision32

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Rick Courtright said:
Hi,

Nice thing about reloading is there are many ways to achieve the same end result, so if their ammo works as they want it to, the guys who trim are no more right nor wrong than the guys who don't! :)

Rick C

Rick is absolutely correct. I hope my post was not taken as saying anyone is wrong in the methods they use.

Any ammo that headspaces on the case mouth gets checked and trimmed as needed. All the bottle necked ammo also gets checked and trimmed, both rimmed and rimless. I've just never found the need to trim rimmed cases such as 38, 357 or the 44s. :wink:
 

Rclark

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've loaded 44 spl & mag for a long time and never have trimmed any of them. I use a mild crimp and never had an issue.
Never have trimmed handgun brass in my life either. Never felt a need to do so. My groups seem to be just fine without the 'trim job'.... YMMV.
 

Jim Puke

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Rclark said:
've loaded 44 spl & mag for a long time and never have trimmed any of them. I use a mild crimp and never had an issue.
Never have trimmed handgun brass in my life either. Never felt a need to do so. My groups seem to be just fine without the 'trim job'.... YMMV.

X 3

But that doesn't make it wrong...different strokes for different folks.
 

dougader

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I only ever trimmed handgun brass when I was trying to shorten a mag case to use in a "special" revolver, ie, 454 Casull shortened to use in a 45 Colt handgun.
 

Johnnu2

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Never trimmed handgun brass either......but agree, go for it if you feel the need. Can't hurt.
 

mikld

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IMHO, much ado about nuttin'. I have been reloading straight walled handgun ammo since 1969 and only trimmed a few cases out of curiosity. I am of the "don't bother/never trim" school of handgun reloading. Using a moderate roll crimp, I don't think there is any noticeable difference in case neck tension even with a .005"-.010" difference in case length. If there is, I cannot determine by shooting any difference in ammo with all cases within .001" or a variation of .008". I reload .38 Special, .357 Magnum, .44 Special and .44 Magnum. I seat all my cast bullets to the crimp groove and use a Redding profile die. Prior to the profile die I just used the normal seating/roll crimp die. Perhaps if one was looking for 1/2 MOA from a straight sided case in a rifle, consistent case lengths to .005" would make some sort of difference...

But like most things in reloading; it's your ammo, and your time. What makes you happy is the most important thing! The "Reloading Police" ain't gonna kick down your door and confiscate yer ammo because you did it ""wrong".

Hey, jes an old guys thoughts... :mrgreen:
 
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