Steve, simply put, if done correctly there should be no problem...lots depends on just "where" any and all holes are located,and "how many" but its more of what loads you may be using that are of the "homemade" variety (reloads) ,,,,,,factory stuff should NOT be an issue.........
as for the repair or fixing the hole, any GOOD gunsmith should be able to do the job, and if done RIGHT, should not be noticeable, we have seen many that use mig and tig and with the higher temps, you will get that "spot" anneal ( dark circle) when the gun is reblued ,this is why so many will simply color case the frame......the GOOD guys will re heat treat ,draw it back and the hole will not be noticeable, in the "old days" I simply used a mild rod (#2 I believe it was),and an old Hobart we had at the GE plant, use very low amps, just enough to strike an arc and never had an issue with seeing the "hole repair" after a reblue.......... 8) :roll:
By the way, when the old models are "case colored" it is not really hardened, as 4140 chrome moly steel ,used in the "mix" ( alloy) of the Ruger frames is a "complex metal" and "hardening" will cause the metal to become brittle and can fracture, so Turnbull and others use a different temp level to get the "case colors" but not the hardening effects.....I know some case color hardening companies will NOT do the Ruger frames ,ala Springfield Case Color down in southern ,Ohio and yes we have seen and had frames ,years ago, that this is exactly what happened, they became brittle and did fracture in fact saw two that literally crumbled apart in time and with use, this was back in the late 60's ,early 70's when we had our first shop......and over the years have seen hundreds of Rugers that were drilled and tapped on the top strap , as well as about anywhere else the need for a mount or a sling strap is (was) needed...... :wink:
