Erratic ejection is most often caused by the extractor, and usually because it releases the case too early or too late...but most often too early.
And in some pistols, it can be too late AND too early.
The shortened variants can be especially problematical because the typical extended length ejector hits the case while the slide is still moving fast and has a good distance remaining to the impact abutment. On the full-sized pistols, the case contacts the standard "stub" ejector at a point that the slide is nearly at the limit of its travel and has been slowed enough by the action/recoil spring to give it time to clear the port.
The extended ejectors necessary with the reduced slide travel also made it necessary to lower the port wall to prevent the case from striking the wall and being vectored straight up.
Forward ejection usually means late release. Backward usually means early.
Early release generally results in the brass flying backward...sometimes straight into your face or over your head. It's usually accompanied by brass tracks in the front of the port because the case was released into the slide's path and it gets knocked backward.
But sometimes it bounces twice. Once off the front and into the back of the port...and then it arcs forward of the gun when the slide hits it on the return trip. Analyzing the tracks and the patterns will provide a clue.
Check the length of the extractor claw from the tensioning wall to the tip. Ideal length is .035-.038 inch.
Often, if the claw has sharp, defined corners, late release...weak ejection...or even the occasional failure to eject is seen. I've come to tweak the claw on all new extractors as a matter of course. It only takes about 30 seconds to do it. Basically, you use a smooth mill file or a stone to give the claw a rough "D" shape as viewed from the front of the slide instead of the usual "]" shape. The radiusing shouldn't be as heavy as a true D. Your goal is to break the sharp corners that can snag the inside face of the rim as the case twists off the claw.
If you do this, lay the file or stone on the bench, and swipe the claw on it with a rolling motion to create a small radius. The mill file only cuts in one direction and it cuts pretty fast...so be careful. It usually only takes one or two swipes to do what needs to be done.
Sometimes it's necessary to tweak the shape of the extractor nose to guide the brass in the direction you want it to go, but this is one of those things in which a tiny change usually has a large effect...so it's a careful, trial and error exercise...with patience being the key to not having to order a new ejector and starting over.
I haven't seen Ruger's Commander clone yet, so I don't know what the ejector looks like. My advise is to go find a Colt Commander and study the ejector shape. Colt pioneered the Commander and has been successfully building them since 1949. They've got a handle on it. Minor details like this very often escape the notice of other manufacturers if they even bother to go look at a Colt...and from what I've seen...almost none of them do.