So after several attempts to sell my XD40 and one deadbeat bidder ... Well you guessed it, I decided to keep it. I just bought 3 more mags and 500 rds of ammo for. I know the field is split, but for the reloaders out there, what are your thoughts. I know many talk about the fabled exploding glocks etc, but what are the real concerns, do you load mild, case life etc. The ammo I bought is all nickel case. Do these last longer or more prone to case blow out?
The .40 cal debate .... again.
- Thread starter modrifle3
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I can speak only to hand loading for the SR40. I would feel fairly confident that the results would be similar for the XD40 pistol.
I hand load two different ways for the .40 caliber cartridge. One load I use for outdoor shooting; a 155 grain plated (not jacketed) flat-nose bullet from Berry's over a mid-range charge of Hodgdon's Universal. My indoor load (necessary because the backstop at my club's range is not capable of stopping plated, jacketed, or hollow-point bullets) is a 155 grain semi-wad cutter lead bullet over a mid-range charge of Hodgdon's Universal. I have also used an appropriate charge of Hodgdon's Clays with good results (please note that "Universal" and "Clays" are two different powders with two different charge amounts).
I have not loaded a "maximum" charge because, quite frankly, I don't feel the added speed is necessary for my recreational shooting purposes.
I set a personal limit of 5 reloads per brass case. I have had brass appear to be in fine condition after 5 firings but I prefer not to risk a malfunction. I have reloaded nickel cases and have not found any issues with them; I would suggest someone else who has reloaded nickel extensively add to the comments regarding reliability.
I have no experience with the "exploding glocks" but I would suggest to any person who hand loads ammunition to start with the minimum charge recommendations as listed in a reputable reloading manual and then increase carefully until you achieve your goal. My goal was and is to achieve a reasonably accurate target load with a manageable level of felt recoil.
--Rob
I hand load two different ways for the .40 caliber cartridge. One load I use for outdoor shooting; a 155 grain plated (not jacketed) flat-nose bullet from Berry's over a mid-range charge of Hodgdon's Universal. My indoor load (necessary because the backstop at my club's range is not capable of stopping plated, jacketed, or hollow-point bullets) is a 155 grain semi-wad cutter lead bullet over a mid-range charge of Hodgdon's Universal. I have also used an appropriate charge of Hodgdon's Clays with good results (please note that "Universal" and "Clays" are two different powders with two different charge amounts).
I have not loaded a "maximum" charge because, quite frankly, I don't feel the added speed is necessary for my recreational shooting purposes.
I set a personal limit of 5 reloads per brass case. I have had brass appear to be in fine condition after 5 firings but I prefer not to risk a malfunction. I have reloaded nickel cases and have not found any issues with them; I would suggest someone else who has reloaded nickel extensively add to the comments regarding reliability.
I have no experience with the "exploding glocks" but I would suggest to any person who hand loads ammunition to start with the minimum charge recommendations as listed in a reputable reloading manual and then increase carefully until you achieve your goal. My goal was and is to achieve a reasonably accurate target load with a manageable level of felt recoil.
--Rob
Bigboreshooter
Single-Sixer
I have reloaded thousands of rounds of 40 S&W over the last 5-6 years. All of my 40 "range loads" use either 165gr or 180gr bullets over 5.4gr W231. These loads have worked well in a variety of pistols from Ruger, Sig, H&K, Kahr, and others including both XD-40 and XD(m)-40.
Some of my cases have been loaded 7-8 times with no visible signs of stress or case failure.
Some of my cases have been loaded 7-8 times with no visible signs of stress or case failure.
modrifle3 said:
I don't load for .40s&w but I do load for 10mm (which is the parent case of the .40S&W).
I do load on the mild side for most things because, for me, the whole purpose of handloading is to be able to do higher volume of shooting for cheap. Its target ammo, it just needs to be able to meet a minimum criteria.
For target loads this is my general set of rules.
- Loads are about 70-90% of max.
- Brass is inspected every time I load it. I spot check a few cases to check for stretch.
- I mix case brands and I don't keep super accurate track of how many cycles the brass has. I do my best, but things do get mixed up.
There are hunting loads that I make from time to time, and with those, my practice is different.
- New brass or brass that has been loaded once only. In any case, brass of Known life. (used brass inspected and measured to make sure its not over-stretched)
- Loads right up to 100% of max.
- loads are chrono'd to check performance.
- First few rounds fired are shot single-shot and the brass is inspected to check for pressure signs.
Thanks for the info...plated bullets seem to be about all I can find for .45 here lately. Thinking of trying some for the 40 ... But still got to get dies. I am planning on a lee 4 die set. I use lyman for the 45 but lee seems to run less and work just as good.
A few months ago I bought 2K pcs of Federal .40 brass on GB for about $60 delivered. I've loaded some several times and they're still going (upper level load of 231/ 155 gr LSWC). If they look bad I toss them but it's been pretty rare so far.
Also if one gets lost in the leaves or grass you don't have to sweat it with that many on hand.
Also if one gets lost in the leaves or grass you don't have to sweat it with that many on hand.
