Super Blackhawk Trigger issues?

[George]

I got 65 reads but no replies so I thought maybe I could explain things a bit better. I''ll try!

I have a new Super Blackhawk. It's a Lipsey's Exclusive Bisley 0818 in SS.It has a Bisley Hammer, trigger and grip frame. This is a new in the box from my dealer gun. It's fit and finish looks 100% in everyway.

The trigger feel was clean and crisp with a pull weight just right for me. But the trigger just didn't return right. I looked up the issue and I found I had a bit of transfer bar hammer pinch going on as the trigger did not fully reset with out a little pull back on the hammer..

I took a file to notch in the hammer where the pinch takes place till all but eliminating it. What I mean is with very heavy pressure on the hammer there is a slight drag on the trigger reset that I can feel but the trigger now fully resets all the time. This is how it sounds and feels to me. After I drop the hammer I hear two clicks when I let my finger off the off the trigger it resets fully forward but I don't have any trigger end play at all at full reset.

If I press on the trigger at full reset it's does not move at all. Is this ok? My Single six has about 1/6" or so play after full reset . Just wonder if having no end play is ok on my SBH? George

 

[schloss]

So is it working correctly?

Play in the trigger isn't preferable to me. If it resets properly every time, you can set the hammer every time, and goes bang every time you pull the trigger, I wouldn't complain.

If that's not the case, tell the story. You can email me if you like. I'm not always real good about checking back here every day. But, like I was saying, its only a problem if its a problem.

 

[Hondo44]

You have no problem, just a normal functioning gun.

The lack of play in the trigger is a factor of the transfer bar top length. It's right up against the bottom step in the hammer face or up against the bottom edge of the firing pin. Pull the hammer back 1/16" or more, disengage from the hammer step, and the spring and plunger in the end of the cyl pin will push it out from under the firing pin. The trigger will then have full rearward travel and you will see the transfer bar rise coincidentally. Can't compare with the 22, it's geometry is different. In fact every gun is slightly different.

 

[George]

Jim , Thank you for your info! I think I have the transfer bar and hammer just right as far as pinch goes. And yes if I dry fired the gun and took my finger off the trigger ( Before I did the work on it) I would hear one click, trigger would have end play but the T bar was under my firing pin at that point. Hitting the bottom of firing pin but Not under hammer saftey notch.

If I pulled the trigger with the hammer down the T Bar would contact the bottom of the firing pin I could feel a slight catch as if the T bar was just not making it under the saftey notch in the hammer . It was not under the safety notch in the hammer unless I pulled the hammer back a tad ( a 1/16" like you said) then I would get full reset. This is why I checked for pinch first and after finding some I thought it would fix my issue if I took out the pinch. It did not.

Maybe I was wrong but after reading I felt the trigger should be fully reset when ever the hammer was down and finger was off the trigger.. What I did to correct this was cut the bottom of the safety T bar notch in the hammer just a little. I now get full trigger reset whenever the hammer is down the hammer . Let my finger off the trigger I hear two clicks trigger is fully forward no end play. I just want to make sure what I did is OK for this gun the way it's set up.

The T Bar goes under the safety notch in the hammer now with out pulling back the hammer a 1/16" then let it rest back down ( as it cam from the factory). I didn't feel I should have had to do this manual reseting of the trigger every time I wanted the T bar under the safty notch in the hammer.

Maybe I should have left it the way it came from the factory. Did I explain it well enough? I did check all function with cly. out and cyl. pin in to check location of firing pin. I used a good light and could just see where and what the t bar was doing in relation to the hammer befor and after my fix. Does it sould like my gun is good to go now? George

 

[Hondo44]

Yes it does and what an excellent analysis of the issue.

TO TEST HAMMER/TRANSFER BAR FOR MISS-FIRES:
With hammer fully cocked, press on the transfer bar to extend the firing pin and observe how far thru the recoil shield it protrudes. Now keep the trigger pulled back, drop the hammer and observe the firing pin again. If firing pin protrudes the same amount, you’re good to go. If it doesn't protrude the same amount, you need to remove just enough metal from the top face of the hammer nose so the transfer bar is pushed tight against the firing pin in the hammer channel. If you remove too much, the transfer bar will not perform its safety function. Also make sure hammer has no friction or contact with grip frame ears around its base to slow its fall and you may have miss-fires.

IF YOU HAD TO MODIFY HAMMER NOSE:
At the range, double check the safety function by loading a live round under the hammer, point down range, cock the hammer, hold with thumb, release the trigger to uncock the hammer, take finger off trigger and release your thumb so the hammer falls. The round will not fire if safety transfer bar is functioning correctly.

 

[George]

Jim, Thank you for your help! I did the safty checks again. All is good! When I get to the range I'll do your safety function test. I must say it feels right now! Again thank you! George