SRH Trigger assembly

[SweetWilliam]

I need some info on my 454 SRH trigger. First I will say it has a nice light pull with no creep. My problem is the trigger return, the last 1/8" to 3/16" feels gritty & like something is rubbing.
I've had it apart & ive narrowed it down to this.
If I remove the pawl & the pawl spring (part #6) it's smooth as glass.
But when those 2 parts are in is when it's gritty.
From what I can tell it's happening when the pawl spring is contacting the trigger plunger. Is this normal? The spring goes all the way through the hole in the trigger & makes contact with the trigger plunger (part #58).
It just seems weird that they would have a bare spring end doing rubbing on the trigger plunger.
I don't know what the guy did to this gun before I bought it so I went ahead and ordered a new factory trigger guard latch spring.
Any info will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

As the trigger is released the item 58 plunger has to compress the pawl spring so it can ride over the little ledge on the cylinder latch. These parts are the place I would check for rough edges. I have disassembled several and there is no plunger/ plug / guide that goes under the pawl spring. It rides directly on the trigger plungers rear face. I would have called that part " the cylinder latch actuator" if I were Rugers engineer. That is what it does after all.
Have you shimmed the trigger to prevent excess side play and keep it from cocking at an angle in the trigger housing. Every little bit helps smooth them up.

 

[SweetWilliam]

The trigger is tight with no side movement. I'll have to take it back apart & look for ruff edges. But I'm 99.99% sure it has something to do with my above description. Because it only does it when the pawl spring is in place.
Am I correct in saying that the trigger guard latch spring is the trigger return spring also? I'm thinking the guy I bought it from may have put a lighter trigger return spring in it.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Yes, the trigger return spring also works the plunger that holds the trigger guard into the main frame. I replace that spring with a Wolff 8# spring when I work on one of mine.if the trigger wont reset with an 8# spring there are other issues going on.without removing the pawl,keep it from falling out while working the trigger. Note how the cylinder latch interacts with the trigger. I believe your problem is related to that system. You said that if the pawl is removed the trigger is smooth. Without the pawl spring the part number 58 is not pushed under the cylinder latch and does not have to compress the pawl spring to allow the trigger to fully reset. Watch it function,I believe you will find a burr on either part no. 58 or under the rear flat of the cylinder latch itself.
Notice #58 has a slanted front face. The last little bit of trigger return forces it to the rear compressing the pawl spring and allowing it to ride over the ledge at the bottom rear face of the cylinder latch.

 

[SweetWilliam]

Chuck thanks for your help.
I didn't find anything to bad but I did do some polishing on part #'s 4 & 58. Especially where they made contact with each other. That seems to be where the problem is at.
It seems to be better & next time I have it apart I'll probably do a little more.
But I'm still going to put a new factory trigger guard spring in it. I don't know if the one in it is a lighter one or not I'll have to compare them. But it's on it's way from Ruger for free along with a new factory main spring. Just in case that's a lighter one also. I'm a believer in heavy main springs. And I'm really not worried about the double action trigger pull.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Cool, let us know how you make out.

 

[SweetWilliam]

Well my springs showed up yesterday & their was a lighter trigger return spring in it.
The new factory spring was longer & looked to be a little bigger diameter wire.
I also changed the main spring. The new factory also looked longer. Definitly a lot smother trigger return, no felt drag or hesitation. I'm sure the DA pull is heavier now but I don't plan on firing to many DA rounds with this set up.
I will say with the scope mounted on, the hammer can't be removed all the way.
But I think once I get it sighted in I can probably remove the scope (still in the rings) & hold zero. Or at least pretty close.