Speed six stainless 2 3/4 barrel
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They are a durable and well built revolver. As to the other questions I am unable to say.
gramps
gramps
I have a Service Six and it has the best double action of any revolver I have or have had. I got it in a trade so don't know who has done what to it. It is better than my GP100 that Teddy Jacobson did a trigger job on. Not too say my GP isn't great, but the Police Service Six is awesome.
As far as durability, hey it's a Ruger.
As far as durability, hey it's a Ruger.
For a SS Speed Six with the short barrel it would depend on your location. However, expect to pay at least $450 as all the Six series guns have had a burst of interest in the past 12-18 months and prices are going up accordingly. SS guns will have a premium of $50-100 over a blued model.
They can be worked very easily as long as you know what to do and are very judicious with the use of your files/stones. You can also still get lighter mainsprings and trigger return springs which will help. A great manual for these guns is Jerry Kuhnhausens manual for the Ruger Double Actions (you can get it at Brownells or can probably have a book store order it for you).
They can be worked very easily as long as you know what to do and are very judicious with the use of your files/stones. You can also still get lighter mainsprings and trigger return springs which will help. A great manual for these guns is Jerry Kuhnhausens manual for the Ruger Double Actions (you can get it at Brownells or can probably have a book store order it for you).
protoolman
Service-Sixer
It can be smoothed up very nicely. As for changing springs-I wouldn't. It does nothing to smooth up the action and creates longer hammer fall times which can affect accuracy negatively. I like my revolvers snappy and smooth. Soft springs make them feel lethargic and can lead to misfires. $350 would be a good deal but $450 is probably more realistic these days as noted previously.
INDY45
Single-Sixer
Just bought a 2 3/4" barrel stainless with box and papers, Lightly used for $450.00 and fell that I got a good deal. I bought if from a older gentleman that got it from the original owner. Maybe been shot 50-75 times? It is very clean and locks up tight and grips are in perfect shape.
mohavesam
Hawkeye
Condition is everything, but generally I agree with $450 and UP!
What other 25-year old first-class all-stainless six-shot snubbie can you find for under $500 these days?
Protect those walnut grips.
What other 25-year old first-class all-stainless six-shot snubbie can you find for under $500 these days?
Protect those walnut grips.
Geoff Timm
Single-Sixer
What's the value of a Speed Six stainless 2 3/4 inch barrel?SHOOTER said:
Depending on condition and box accessories, 350 to 500 dollars, here in NE Florida.
Can the action on these be worked at all?
Yes, but a master can do wonders, you will wait for the work and I can't recommend one.
Are these a durable well built revolver ?
As they say down Texas way, "Son you can do different, but ya can't do better!"
Geoff
Who didn't buy one when it was cheap, twenty years ago...so many bargains, so little money.
Yermo
Single-Sixer
I have one just as Buckeye's in .38 special. Bought it recently, great gun, love it, don't intend to sell, but have a problem.
After a first cylinder full when the gun heats up a bit the cylinder binds on one or two turns, usually the third or fourth. I then have to go into a single action mode, but even cocking the hammer could be difficult. The only way to deal with it is to break the cylinder open and close at again. Then the same chamber would fire just fine. has anyone encountered this problem before? Any suggestions? Thanks!
After a first cylinder full when the gun heats up a bit the cylinder binds on one or two turns, usually the third or fourth. I then have to go into a single action mode, but even cocking the hammer could be difficult. The only way to deal with it is to break the cylinder open and close at again. Then the same chamber would fire just fine. has anyone encountered this problem before? Any suggestions? Thanks!
mohavesam
Hawkeye
Are you sure the crane isn't bent? Also check the cylinder face for build-up; enough to bind on the barrel face, doesn't need to be very much if the cylinder gap is tight.
dfletcher
Blackhawk
I havethe blued version with factory wood grips. I added a Tyler T Grip and like it alot.
Regarding cleaning up the action, I think it's worth it. I generally don't use stones but stick with "Wet 'N Dry" paper of fine and extra fine grit. Removes the tool marks and results in a morror smooth finish on bearing surfaces.
Regarding cleaning up the action, I think it's worth it. I generally don't use stones but stick with "Wet 'N Dry" paper of fine and extra fine grit. Removes the tool marks and results in a morror smooth finish on bearing surfaces.
Give it a full run first. I think you will be surprised
The trigger return on the SP and GP is a plunger/piston inside a housing. This spring pushes a piston that has 360 contact (usually not all at once) on the walls of the housing. This contact area can sometimes be felt when pulling and releasing the trigger. When I changed the springs in my SP I also removed some of the burrs on the housing wall with a drill bit. This produced a noticeable difference by helping the piston glide better, but really there is no way to completely remove all the contact friction.
The Security Six, on the other hand, has a torsion spring that returns the trigger. This springs sits out in the open with no contact area during operation. I also think the floating cylinder stop helps with trigger return. IMO it smooths out that catch/click you feel when releasing the trigger on the GP/SP.
My two SPs were gritty and stiff, but I was able to fix them with a spring kit and some polishing. My 4 Six series were fine the way they were.
The trigger return on the SP and GP is a plunger/piston inside a housing. This spring pushes a piston that has 360 contact (usually not all at once) on the walls of the housing. This contact area can sometimes be felt when pulling and releasing the trigger. When I changed the springs in my SP I also removed some of the burrs on the housing wall with a drill bit. This produced a noticeable difference by helping the piston glide better, but really there is no way to completely remove all the contact friction.
The Security Six, on the other hand, has a torsion spring that returns the trigger. This springs sits out in the open with no contact area during operation. I also think the floating cylinder stop helps with trigger return. IMO it smooths out that catch/click you feel when releasing the trigger on the GP/SP.
My two SPs were gritty and stiff, but I was able to fix them with a spring kit and some polishing. My 4 Six series were fine the way they were.
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