single six hunter creep
- Thread starter useabow
- Start date
Jayhawkhuntclub
Buckeye
Describe what you mean by the "trigger job" you did.
Normally to get rid of creep, you need to take the hammer notch down to around 0.015". You can take this measurement using automotive feeler gauges. You can't do reduce the notch freehand as you have to keep the angles the same. You'll nee a diamond stone and a way to keep the angles the same. I use a vice and a small magnetic level attached to the diamond stone as a jig. I don't think I've ever handled a NM SA Ruger that had a decent factory trigger (and that's putting it nicely). However, most NM SA Rugers can be essentially creep free, if you know what you're doing. I've done a few that still had a hint of creep, but most it's inperceptable. Make sure you are comfortable with what you're doing before you start. If not, have a gunsmith do it for you.
Normally to get rid of creep, you need to take the hammer notch down to around 0.015". You can take this measurement using automotive feeler gauges. You can't do reduce the notch freehand as you have to keep the angles the same. You'll nee a diamond stone and a way to keep the angles the same. I use a vice and a small magnetic level attached to the diamond stone as a jig. I don't think I've ever handled a NM SA Ruger that had a decent factory trigger (and that's putting it nicely). However, most NM SA Rugers can be essentially creep free, if you know what you're doing. I've done a few that still had a hint of creep, but most it's inperceptable. Make sure you are comfortable with what you're doing before you start. If not, have a gunsmith do it for you.
Jayhawkhuntclub All I did on the trigger was bend the ears on the spring. You know a poor man job. Is there a site that i can go to that has a step by step to do the HAMMER. or do u have pictures on how u did it?thank uJayhawkhuntclub":q75qomg3 said:
The bent spring is, well, pretty distant from a real trigger job. If having a GOOD trigger is important enough and you don't have the skills for such work, I'd highly recommend having someone that specializes in such work work on it. VERRRY easy to go too far.
My NM SS had a terrible trigger. I did the 'bend the spring' adjustment and, while not a match trigger, it IS much better and a bit more predictable. I bent it a wee bit at a time till it was what I wanted and would be happy with.
Jayhawkhuntclub
Buckeye
useabow: I don't know what your knowledge leve is, but... I would start by learning to disassemble/reassemble your gun and learn how it works. Study the diagrams and understand the parts. Once you get that down, start searching for SA Ruger trigger jobs. Also go to www.rugerforum.net and buy the new model single six/single action IBOK from Iowegan. It's around $15. And again, if you don't think you can do the trigger job properly, then let a gunsmith do it. Good luck!
JHC
JHC
CraigC
Hawkeye
Reducing creep in New Models is a job for a real gunsmith. There is creep inherent in the design and a certain amount is necessary for proper function of the transfer bar.
flatgate
Hawkeye
Well stated, Craig. I can get them pretty much "creep free" but it takes some parts swapping and luck.
flatgate
flatgate
Jayhawkhuntclub
Buckeye
I have several that I would consider creep free. I have never had a problem with the transfer bar not working. However, I could see the potential for it being an issue. On a couple of mine the transfer bar only covers part of the backside of the firing pin. I've shot them a bunch though and never had an issue. BTW, this doesn't seem to be an issue on the guns with locks (eg. anniversary flattops, 44 spls). For what ever reason, you can take all the creep out of those guns with locks and the transfer bar will still cover 90% of the firing pin.
