Single Six grip frame finish

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Geezerglide

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
10
Anyone ever use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black to completely re-finish the bare aluminum grip frame. Does it work and/or is it durable?

Thanks in advance
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
21,005
Welcome to the Forum!
I think I tried to use it for a touch up several years ago. I wasn't happy with it for that application.
There are several posts around here about redoing the AL grip frames. Most use one form of high temp engine paint, or a bake on finish from Brownells.
 

Geezerglide

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
10
Yep........., tried it on a small spot on a different gun. Looks like crap! Off to the paint store. Thanks :?
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
21,005
If you go to the paint,, go to an auto parts store, get a high temp engine paint.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Messages
7,773
yes the alloy in them frames can be a real pain in the butt..I've had them touch up' just fine with Birchwood case aluminum black and others did NOTHING...so it depends,,,,then the paint, ,Krylon has worked for us, and we prefer, the Brownells Aluma hyde, works about the best overall...but as said, use what works for YOU...in the summr we will leave it out in the hot sun, to "set" or you can pop it in the over, on a wire rack and "bake" that helps too, but most all of that is temporary, but at least you can always go back and "redo it" another time, after a bunch of wear............
 

gb6491

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
374
contender":xep9b7ax said:
If you go to the paint,, go to an auto parts store, get a high temp engine paint.
+1 , I've used Dupli-Color High heat 1200 degrees ceramic paint with very good results.
2vb1qts.jpg

At about $6 a can it is a very viable substitute for the specialty paints at $20 a can. One thing I like about the ceramic infused paints such as this and Wheeler Cerama-Coat is that they only require a clean surface for application (Wheeler Cerama Coat instructions state: "Blued or Parkerized steel and anodized aluminum can be coated as is. However, if any red rust, corrosion, or oxidation is present, it must be removed in order to assure proper adhesion of Cerama-Coat and to protect the substrate from further deterioration. Light surface rust can be removed using fine steel wool and a penetrating oil or solvent. Severely corroded surfaces should be stripped using a chemical stripper and/or a mechanical means such as a bead or sand blaster, a buffing or sanding wheel, or by hand sanding.")

If you can't bake it on, Brownells Aluma Hyde II that rugerguy mentioned or DuraCoat are good choices.

Other products worth a look are:
Gun Kote
Norrell Moly-Resin
Cerakote

Regards,
Greg

BTW: Paints have varying degrees of resistance to the various chemicals found in cleaning/ lubricating products. It best to limit (or avoid) exposure time to them. It would probably best to do a test piece and expose it to the products you use.
 

Geezerglide

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
10
Found some epoxy type high temp spray on at Advance Auto. I'll let ya know how it comes out.
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,715
I had one re-anodized at a plating shop that looked just like original. I also had one brass plated that came out very nice and looked like solid brass. The shop had to plate it with something else first but I don't remember what it was.
 

CraigC

Hawkeye
Joined
May 27, 2002
Messages
5,197
Brownells' Aluma-Hyde II works great but for aluminum grip frames, I prefer to either polish them or bead blast and leave bare.
 

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