Scope Torque

[jmsfmtex]

What is the general torgue for scope mounts?

 

[Bitman]

If your talking the scope rings, I generally torque mine to 12 or 14 inch pounds. Honestly don't know if it's correct or not, but never had one come loose or mark the scope.

 

[jmsfmtex]

Thank you for your response. i thought it was around that.

 

[ruggedruger]

I'm only familiar with the type of torque wrench my dad used on cars. What kind of tool is this? (I'll be googling it in a second...)

 

[ruggedruger]

Oooh. Sweet.

http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

 

[Silent Sam]

http://ruger.com/resources/videos.html?vidID=005012

per the video: 30"lbs for the mount. 20"lbs for the rings.

 

[jmsfmtex]

Thank you for the link. That video was very helpful.

 

[Pal Val]

That's 20 inch-lbs for STEEL rings. For aluminum, it could be a thread-stripper. I'd back up 25% in the torque for aluminum.

 

[Silent Sam]

It's for Ruger rings. Don't have to worry about aluminum. If you use other manufacturer's rings, use their instructions.

 

[picketpin]

I have an inch pound wrench but a few years ago bought a #10 Torx srew driver from S_K that is quite long with a thin shaft. When the shaft just starts to flex, it at or very near 20 inch pounds. The torque wrench about $200 20 years ago when I bought it as a "scientific instriment". The screw driver cost $8. ;-)

Back then an inch pound wrench was a serious tool for specialized purposes and there weren't the more moderately priced onesavailable to the hobbiest like there is now.

Part number SK T-10 84001 about $8 from anybody that stocks SK or Proto tools. ;-)

Ross

 

[picketpin]

I have an inch pound wrench but a few years ago bought a #10 Torx srew driver from S_K that is quite long with a thin shaft. When the shaft just starts to flex, it at or very near 20 inch pounds. The torque wrench about $200 20 years ago when I bought it as a "scientific instrament". The screw driver cost $8. ;-)

Back then an inch pound wrench was a serious tool for specialized purposes and there weren't the more moderately priced ones available to the hobbiest like there is now.

Part number SK T-10 84001 about $8 from anybody that stocks SK or Proto tools. ;-)

Ross

 

[Silent Sam]

If you use the supplied tool and use the short end as the lever the ring screws should be tight enough w/o overtorqueing. If you tighten hard enough to twist the tool where it engages the screw you are definitely overtorqueing. If you go far enough to damage the tool so it slips in the screw you will also damage the screwhead and most definitely will be overtorqueing. What I have found is the provided tool is softer than the screws and the screws are softer than the bases.

I think one of the problems people create for themselves with Ruger ringmounts is not keeping the ring tops matched to the bases including the orientation of the top to base as it came from the factory. Those mounts are made as a unit, not as mix and match pieces. I even keep screws matched to holes if I remove and reinstall mounts I got as new. Perhaps a little over the top, but that is what I do. On used stuff replacing the screws is not a bad thing as generally speaking the tendency is to overtighten scope rings. I have never used any kind of threadlocker on any of those fasteners as it has not been necessary.

I do use a torque wrench. I am sure it would not qualify as a "precision instrument" but it does provide some consistency. I use it for all the screws on the rifle and record action screw torques for all my bolt action Rugers. The torque on that diagonal screw can make a significant impact on how the gun shoots.