bottom line is if the cylinder "locks up" as your are cocking the hammer back ( On an 'empty' gun), and the cylinder is firmly "locked in place, at or just before the hammer is all the way rearward, with the hammer cocked back, try and wiggle the cylinder, do this on each and every chamber, if it locks up, on all six your are good to go,,yes, there is a 'plug strike' gauge for each and every caliber to "see" ,check if the chamber actually align with the bore, but in most revolvers this alignment is to check if there is 'bullet shaving" gas blow by etc, the forcing cone of the barrel is tapered and when the the cartridge is fired, the bullet "Jump" from the cylinder , to the barrel into the forcing cone aligns the shot,,,folks try a light etc, and all too often just "see" a shadow...if all the chambers 'align' then try and shoot it, see what happens ,how the shot and point of aim ( impact)go .......
you can take a piece of white poster board ,, thin cardboard like they used to put in 'dress shorts' when they were 'new' and at the range on the shooting bench just loop , the cardboard over and around the gun, like a "tent", and if there is blow by , lead splatter etc., it will appear on and around the gun onto the carboard with each shot when fired..again you will get "powder" splatter, "blackened" a bit on any given shot but you do NOT want bullet (lead) shaving.....back to the 'alignment', when checking for the cylinder "lockup" if it does NOT lock up, and you can slightly turn the cylinder that last tiny bit till it goes "click",locks in place, THEN you have a timing issue and it would need to be looked at for a new pawl ( hand) , same goes for when you cock the hammer back and it spins "past" goes by the lockup , the pawl ( hand ) is too thick or 'long'....lastly when the cylinder is in the gun, see if you have "end to end " movement, does the cylinder move any on a front to back basis...then you can look , see measure the "gap" in between the front face of the cylinder and the rear of the barrel, this B/C gap should be in between 4 to 10 "thousandths", I use a .006 " feeler gauge to check as thats about average.......again, not a big deal as once a cylinder has been "fitted" to another, "like, same model" gun, all the fitting and ratchet cuts have been done,,,, then its a case of how long your cylinder actually is, and so it does NOT rub against the rear of the barrel,,,if it did ,it most likely would NOT have dropped in place, for you in the first place....any doubt, have an "expert" take a look at it, check it out for timing/headspace........the proof in the pudding is actually firing it, good luck