Ruger Old Army Fouling?

[BearStopper]

I have never experienced a cap and ball revolver until today. I bought a used but in good condition with extra new cylinder, Pietta 1858 Remington replica for 125.00 a couple years ago. Just got around to shooting it as a friend wanted to try it and buy it from me. About as much fun as you can have for that price and I now want a Ruger Old Army. Question is, does the ROA foul and lock up as quickly as the 1858 Remmy does? After most of a cylinder full this one got to be a pain to operate. Since my friend is taking this one, I wanted to scratch that ROA itch that I have had for a long time.

 

[flatgate]

Good Luck in finding a new one. Ruger quit making them... :shock:

I have very limited experience with firing the Ruger Old Army, however I've not heard of such overwhelming troubles as you are fearing.....

flatgate

 

[Wyandot Jim]

ROA are not known to have any problems. That is why all the top CAS shooter use them.
I just shot mine in a match last Sat. 40 rounds in each gun no problems.
All I do is wipe the cylinder down and put a little Ballistol on the base pin now and then.
I DO NOT USE GREASE ON THE FACE OF THE CYLINDER. Just makes a mess. My hands and guns stay pretty clean.
Jim
These are not the normal ROA :wink:

 

[cagedodger]

I have loaded and shot 6 cyliner's worth in my Old Army and not had any problems. Probably could have kept on going but it takes a little longer to load.

I have heard of various Itialian replicas gumming up after just 2 or 3 cylinders. You just have to clean a little more to keep shooting. I think it is because they are replicas, with all the inherent problems of the day.

When Bill Ruger designed the Old Army, he improved on the original. The only downside to owning a ROA is they are not acceptable to most, if not all, Civil War re-enactment societies.

You can still find them at gunshows, but they are becoming more rare and prices are only going up. $450~$600

Cage
8)

 

[clayflingythingy]

If your 1858 Remington became difficult to operate after one cylinder, then I gonna guess you didn't have the gun lubed properly.

I have shot my 1858 with never any hint of "binding" due to fouling upwards of 50 rounds.

First off, use real black powder. It is difficult to find, but it can be mail ordered. BP fouling is not near as bad as some try to make it out to be. Nor is the cleanup as bad as some moan about either.

Before shooting, clean the gun thoroughly and then goop the gun with T/C bore butter. Make sure you goop the cylinder pin.

If properly lubed the gun should function all afternoon without any problems.

 

[dennie]

I am new to the cap and ball pistol myself. Yesterday, with Pyrodex P, I put 30 rounds thru my 1858 with no fouling problems. My only problem is that I cannot seem to keep primers on the nipples unless I keep the gun pointed down most of the time. I am using both #10 and #11 primers. The #10 is supposed to fit, but occasionally one will still fall off. The #11 I squeeze just a little and it works about the same. I use the #11 for the fouling shots.
Just have to learn the technique, I guess.
dennie

 

[WASATCH CHARLIE]

i was given a roa in new condition with original can of goex3f. my good buddy never warmed up to it. i have been casting LEE R.E.A.L. pure lead bullets with a little ALOX on them . shoot 5 or 6 cylinders then bronze brush cyl and barrel and good for 5 or 6 more . do not grease end of cylinders unless shooting r.b. loads. great b.p.revolver. W.C. if you can find a decent one, BUY IT ,
'cause there ain,t no more.

 

[albertqss]

I bought a used SS ROA a few years back. What a gun. I shot round balls as well as some lee 200gr, .45 cal bullets out of it. I can say for sure that I went a few times at least with 10 full cylinders before going home. I bet I could shoot even more without cleaning. I use Crisco to top off the chambers after the ball is loaded.

Cheers,
Mad

 

[NorEaster]

I use the American Pioneer (APP) Powder and feel it shoots fairly clean.
No it's not "holy black" but it is easier for me to come by as I can pick up a can of the Jim Shockey's Black Gold at my local Cabelas. I use a wonder wad between ball and powder.
When done shooting, I clean with HOT water and a little soap and then lube well with Thompson Center Bore Butter once parts are dried.
Using very hot water, you will find that the moisture somewhat self evaporates off the metal. Kind of creates a self quick drying effect.
I took and old flannel shirt and cut a piece about 10" square out of the back. I then take a good amount of Bore Butter and heat it in a pan. Saturate the flannel rag with the melted bore butter and let cool. Store in an old cool whip bowl or a jar and you've got a gun wipe to wipe it down with periodically.
There are plenty of adjustable sighted ROA's to be had. The fixed sighted ones are a little harder to come by. I prefer the FS versions as they look truer to their roots than the adj versions do.
There's a really nice stainless FS model on the classifieds: http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=134564&highlight=army

 

[SAJohn]

I once had a cheap replica Navy chain fire 4 cylinders. It happened right at dusk. It looked like my whole hand was enveloped in fire. No damage done to anything but my underwear. The balls I used were undersized. Never-the-less, I now always Crisco the end of the loaded cylinder.

I suspect most problems with poor percussion cap fitting was caused by someone dry firing these things. Most of today's taboo about dry firing probably goes back to the cap and ball days. With a used gun just buy a new set of stainless nipples and don't dry fire them. John

 

[surveyor47]

The Pietta 1858 Remington is a pretty good gun out of the box, and we use them for N-SSA 25 and 50 yard competition, but most have to be accurized. Your alternative is an Old Army, which pretty much duplicates what you can do to an 1858 with over $1200 in alterations. Bill Ruger knew what he was doing.

A couple of tips:
Remove the cylinder between loadings and pull a Bore Snake through the barrel.

Buy a cylinder loading stand. This allows you to remove the cylinder from the gun and load it on a table separate from the gun.

Use Cream of Wheat on top of black powder to fill out remaining space under the bullet when using less than maximum loads. Each chamber should be tightly compressed with the bullet just under the chamber face.

NEVER EVER USE PYRODEX. This stuff is horribly corrosive, oily and difficult to get offf- which is really important in a cap & ball revolver. 3F black powder is the preferred propellant, but I would also consider Triple 7 powder (not pellets).

Use a good lube such as Lens Lube over the chamber mouth or use a Wonder Wad. You dont need 6 chambers going off simultaneously.

Clean with lots of HOT WATER. My wife just loves the smell of black powder going down the sink!

Use Ballistol for cleaning, lubrication and preservative. This stuff neutralizes black powder very well, has a pleasant smell and is pretty mild in comparison to some other products;. Home Depot now carries Ballistol- which I have never seen in a gun shop. I use it on all my black powder guns and have no rust whatsoever on them.

 

[Lloyd Smale]

Buy a bottle of windex with amonia and put it in your range bag. A few squirts and shake it off and keep going.

 

[Jbrown75]

Never had an issue with my '58's locking up either. As far as the ROA goes, get one now or you'll really pay later. And for cleaning, I use Simple Green mixed 50/50 with water. Works like a charm for me.