Ruger Mark II Target Ejector

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rwmiller

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
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Because of what it's doing, I'm already getting ready to replace the ejector and the rest of the guts in the bolt but my curiosity still has to be placated. I bought this Mark II Target used so don't know how many rounds have been thru it before but I know I've put about 1000 rds thru it with NO failures; no failure to feed, no failure to eject, just plain....NO Failures. But what got my attention was clearing the gun after there was a round in the chamber. You know, stop firing, place on safe, drop the mag and rack the bolt to eject the round in the chamber....but the round in the chamber DOES NOT EJECT. I get to looking close and the ejector barely pulls the round from the chamber much less kicking it free from the gun. So, I guess my question is this.....how is it that it can eject spent casings "flawlessly" but when manually racking the slide, it can barely, if at all, grab the brass and move it at all?

I know, I know...sometimes I just get wrapped around the minutiae of something and go...why? why? why?
 
Yep, we're talking about the same piece of metal. I just got hung up on how it would still extract the brass when firing but not when doing it manually. Talk about anal retentive.......boutaswell get a couple more VQ parts. I've put in the trigger and sear and everything in between.
 
It's blow-back operated, that means the gas from the burnt powder is what opens the bolt and pushes the spent case back.... The extractor doesn't have to work as hard when firing the gun as it does when manually operating the bolt.
If it works flawlessly when firing, don't worry about it....
 
I got one of those extractors for my MkII, then I got one for everything else it could get one for.

Amazing what a difference a little chunk of metal makes.

William
 
Thanks for the guidance and pulling my head outta my 4th point of contact. Ya'll be good now.
 
Yeah, sometimes they do that. It is more noticeable with 22LR ammo having longer nosed bullets, or heavier lubed with a waxy type lube, and especially so if you have a dirty chamber (which, of course, usually means the gun is giving you the best accuracy! :))

If it works when shooting it, nothing much to worry about as long as you don't leave one *in* the chamber if you think you have cleared it. Check and check again!
 
If one properly "fits" the factory extractor, remove the rounded shoulder and make it more of a point, it will allow it to better grab the case rim,also make sure there is NO fouling in the extractor slot (cut out at 3 oclock of the chamber) this can keep the extractor from grabing the case rim also....22 cal gets really dirty in and around the chamber area........
 
I have had this thing torn completely apart enough now that I am totally comfortable with the tear down but I had never removed the extractor cause I was never able to pull the extractor plunger back far enough to free the extractor til this past weekend. Now that I see how simple it is to put back together, no problem. Anyhow, I got it apart and it was most definitely just plain filthy. It is all sparkly now but still replacing the firing pin and extractor. It may be ok that it functions "fine" when firing and although I understand the effect of the weight of the empty brass vs. unfired round, if it doesn't extract a chambered round when I manually pull back the bolt, then something just ain't right and it bothers me. I shouldn't have to lock the bolt to the rear and use my fingernail as an extractor. As for cleaning these things. I'm sure I clean "more than needed" but after 20 years in the military, you know that when a firearm goes back into the arms room, it is clean, don't matter if you didn't fire it or put a 1000 rounds through it. Old habits die hard. But anyhow, I think I've got things under control now.

Thanks for the input, it did help in relooking some things on this piece. I made the mistake about 10 years ago of selling the Mark II Target I had at the time and was lucky when I found this one for really cheap but I'll not make that mistake again. This one will be around till I assume room temp. I did swap the oem sights for a set of Williams Fire Sights and I must say, for these tired eyes, it definitely proved the gun shoots as well as and better than this human is capable. I gotta get a gun rest just to see how accurate this thing really is. Oh well, enough rambling. Ya'll have a good day now.
 
So is this the same reason that pulling the bolt back on a 10/22 won't eject a spent casing (ie. Super Colibris)?
 
After I installed the VQ Extractor, I don't ever remember have any problems extracting chambered rounds when I pulled the bolt back.
 
Guess we'll see in a few days when my extractor, firing pin and spring get here. If nothing else, can't hurt anything....
 
I received and replaced the extractor with the VQ part. Improved results but not what I like. Will replace the extractor spring next; should have done this at the same time. This whole thing in turning into a comedy of sorts. I removed a previous post cause I couldn't read a schematic and the associated part numbers without confusing myself; no telling what it was doing to others. Suffice it to say the new part did not improve the function enough for me to say "problem solved"; so as I said above, will replace the extractor spring. Hope this cures my "problem". I'm beginning to think I have created a problem where none existed. I just hate having to use my fingernail for an extractor. Not sure if that is an approved accessory or not.
 
One more entry and I'll shut my mouth. I guess the reason this bothers me so much is I can take my Winchester 290, fill the tube and cycle the bolt and eject every round without fail yet when I try the same with my Mark II Target, it fails at ejecting the very first round. When I flick the extractor with my finger, there is definitely spring tension there so it's not weak. I have a new extractor spring on the way just in case and replacing the firing pin. If that don't fix it, I'll just suck it up and live with it I guess cause it ain't going away any time soon. Thanks for all the input.
 
it could still be the chamber itself, (rough, out of round...) as well as the slot where the extractor fits into (3 o'clock position, right of the chamber)...hard to see or tell when the gun is not sitting here to try and test......... we use 'dummies' to test and cycle and a properly fitted extractor should pull out an unfired case, live or a dummy............
 
rugerguy said:
it could still be the chamber itself, (rough, out of round...) as well as the slot where the extractor fits into (3 o'clock position, right of the chamber)...
Click to expand...
You might have a point there Dan. I bought this gun used although it seemed to be in very good shape although it did need a very good cleaning. I have noticed (but didn't put a lot of thought into it) that the chamber face seems to be very "discolored" in a couple of places from about 8 to 10 o'clock and at 1 to 2 o'clock, I guess what you would call the chamber face is no longer black but is now a silverish color and after looking at it again, it seems to be where the bolt face would contact the chamber face. Is that normal "wear & tear"? I never had a chance to fire enough rounds through my first Mark II Tgt to see any change. I've already put 10 times the rounds through this one in the few months I've had it as I did my first one in the 10 or so years I had it. (proximity to a range I guess.
BoltFace1.jpg
 
My MK 1 and MK11 has about the same marks on the barrel. Bolt hitting the barrel. Don't loose the firing pin pin that holds it in. It will ruin the barrel. The pin stops the firing pin from hitting the barrel.
 
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