Ruger # 1 Questions

[1Longbow]

I just picked up my first #1 in 204 Ruger. I read some of the questions on accuracy problems and some of the cures. Mine seems to shoot the first 2 shots together and the rest start to vertically stack. When you talk about free floating the forearm are we talking about the same thing that I do to my bolt actions? You know,sanding out the barrel channel so I can slip a dollar between the barrel and forearm? How about the Hicks product. This firearm is completely new to me,and maybe I need to pics to understand what you guys are doing to your #1's. Thanks for your time and answers.--1Longbow

 

[b1buddy]

I have had two of these, and both of them loved the Hornaday factory loads, either 32 gr or 40 grain. When I say loved, I mean 0.5-0.7" groups almost all the time at 100 yards.

Now, on the same two rifles they hated Federal and didn't like Remington much better.

So, before you change too much, be sure and try different ammo.

I also have had, and still have most of these, 3- M77's in 204 with identical results. They all prefer the Hornady ammo much more than any other.

good luck!!!

 

[dmazur]

When you talk about free floating the forearm are we talking about the same thing that I do to my bolt actions? You know,sanding out the barrel channel so I can slip a dollar between the barrel and forearm?

Basically, no. The forearm is a separate piece, and (as intended by Ruger) it touches the barrel at its end for support. It also touches the sides of the receiver at the forearm "cheeks". The forearm screw is intended to draw the forearm toward the spring hanger so everything is nice and snug, but not actually touch the hanger. Unfortunately, if the barrel / forearm combination aren't happy, accuracy can suffer.

The Hicks Accurizer is an interesting product, and it sometimes helps tremendously with a barrel harmonics problem. It allows controlling the amount of upward force on the barrel at the spring hanger (increased from zero), which changes the effect of the forearm pressure point. Unfortunately, the Hicks doesn't always work, as the problem isn't always the same.

Others have had good luck by putting an O-ring (or piece of inner tube) between the forearm and the forearm threaded bushing, and varying how tight the screw is tightened.

To solve my "stringing" problem, I replaced the barrel with a PacNor barrel, replaced the stock with a laminated stock, and had the forearm bedded to the spring hanger and receiver (which floated the barrel). Also, so I could shoot with the aid of a sling without pulling the barrel off line, I replaced the 1A stock with one with a longer forearm, effectively making a 1AB.

The way I understand things, floating the barrel may or may not improve anything. In order to do it successfully, you have to bed the forearm at three points to be able to stabilize it without using the barrel. (Because it is a two-piece stock, this is quite a bit more involved than a typical bolt-action barrel floating.) One point is the spring hanger. This little strut can't have enough play in the stock inletting to move at all. The other two points are the "cheeks" of the forearm, where it contacts the receiver. These also need to fit snugly against the receiver with no play. When it is done correctly, you can do the dollar bill test.

 

[wunbe]

An additonal caveat.

Unless you live in an area with failry constant hot and dry weather, you should reseal the wood after any 'fix' is done. Ruger does a poor job of sealing the underside anyway, and moisture shifts will play pure hell with any pains taking rebedding done not to mention move your POI around.

wunbe

 

[1Longbow]

Thanks for the replies guys,and the ideas. Like I said this gun is completely new to me. I will try different loads before I have anything done to the gun. Heck thats part of the fun. I live in Az. and moisture is'nt a real problem,but I have resealed all my gun barrel channels. While I 've noticed that barrel vibrations and harmonics seem to play a role in accuracy with this gun,has anyone tried that Sims thing that you slide on the barrel. I know they look hedeous ,but was just wondering. Thanks again for all your help--1Longbow

 

[Belt Fed]

Hey Longbow, like dmazur said, the O ring trick has worked for me only I used a rubber faucet washer the same size as the head of the forend screw. Also I have noticed that No.1's have a habit of stringing their shots verticaly when the barrel gets warm. Let the barrel cool between shots and see if that helps with the stringing.

 

[METLHED57]

Definitely try the rubber wash. It's a cheap easy fix. I used rubber automotive vaccum hose and cut it with a razor. My .204 also loves Hornady as does my .220 Swift.

 

[picketpin]

Longbow: Sort of the first thing to do with a #1 that's not "working" is to fire it WITHOUT the forearm attached.

Rest the reciever on your rest/bag and shoot your groups. If nothing changes then it's NOT a forearm issue.

If it works great without the forearm then reinstall the forearm and try just snugging it up and then increasing the tension. Almost every #1 has a forearm pressure it prefers and it is as indivual as the rifles.

If you put the forearm back on and the groups go to Hell check for warpage or contact points in the bedding.

There are as many fixes as there are #1 owners but there are some that are easier and less exspensive worth tryng before you do anything radical. The rubber washer on the forearm screw has been known to work, sometimes. I use some small "O" rings that I bought at the harware store. Before the Hicks Accuizer was out many of us tried drilling the forearm hanger and running a set screw up to the bootom of the barrel and increasing/decreasing the pressure on the barrel. Sometimes that works. Out of the 37 #1s I currently own 6 have the set screw or Hicks installed.

Joe Miller is kicking our butts over on the #1 sight and one of the things he swears by is installing a rubber shim cut out of a truck inner tube at the forearm tip pressure point. #1s tend to prefer some forearm pressure at the tip and the Miller Unpatented Rubber Thingy seems to make that pressure more uniform/consistant.

Many/most #1s have a prefer load or two and they are VERY sensative to barrel harmonics. Stuff that works in one rifle may or may not work in another. For a reloader it's usually just a matter of experimenting to find what the rifle likes. It's a bit harder using factory ammo, but there is more than likey at least one load/maker that it shoots better than the others.

Good look. at least the 204 doesn't knock the snot out of you while you work this out. ;-)

the best

Ross