Reloading for the #1

[olnumber1]

Howdy folks,
I just joined this forum and I need some help. I am a model #1 lover. I reload for the 22-250 and the 30.06 in the Ruger #1. Im having some issues with a reloaded case seating into the breech. I full case length size, but when i try to chamber a round (sometimes) the breech block wont close. I have reloaded for 25 years and have never had this issue until i started doing it with the #1's. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mattsbox99]

If you're using RCBS dies they need to cam over (see the instructions for exact details) otherwise, are your cases too long? The only times I have had trouble closing the bolt is when I've seated the bullet out too far.

 

[picketpin]

They breach tight enough that there isn't a lot of camming action compared to a bolt gun. The even a high primer can make them hard to load. I clean primer pocvkets every time and I sit the primed cases on a sheet of glass to make sure there are no high primers. Seating depth is in there also. If you stuff one against the lands on a bolt gun it'll still cam closed, not so with a #1.

Did you change bullets or maker of bullet. If you've changed the ogive may be entirely differentand thus seating becomes critical.

While full length re-sizing isn't critical, I neck size only many of mine but each and every step is more critical than in a bolt gun with a stronger camming action.

Ross

 

[mattsbox99]

Ross, even cleaning my primer pockets and using a hand primer (RCBS) I still get a little scrape mark on the primer with both of my No. 1s. It doesn't really bother me, just noting the tight tolerances on these guns.

 

[four70nitro]

Never had the problem you describe when loading for a No. 1 except when I seated bullets out too far, or the time I tried to shoot neck-sized only brass that had been used in a different rifle. Didn't work out well in either case!

Dave

 

[picketpin]

My first question would be the bullet and OAL and whether you chnaged manufacurer or STYLE of the same make and thus changed the ogive and seating ???

Matt: I Use a unifromer and trun all the primer pockets in my CF rifles, escpecially #1s a seated primer is just below the case and doesn't touch on a piece of glass, so no rub marks. It was/is about uniformity more than anything else.

Ross

 

[Fred M]

First of all try a full sized and primed case without a bullet. If it still is too tight your case is too long, or your die is too long, or your shell holder cutout is too deep.

Get some small pieces of shim stock 0.001 to 0.003"
and place them on the shell holder under the case head.
This will shorten the case.

Your OAL of the cartridge and bullet my be too long and the bullet may jam into the lands. I have shell holder with
up to 0.003" difference in depth, just for that purpose.

Ruger and H&R single shots are known for this problem.
Specially H&R with their stretchy actions.

 

[mattsbox99]

Ross, I haven't cut primer pockets on anything except some .223 with crimped pockets (until I got my Dillon Super Swage :)). I suppose I could do that since I segregate my brass for the No. 1s anyway.

 

[sp]

Not enough headspace? or bullets seated way out there?, or cases not trimmed enough?

My paging through a Redding catalog showed me that Redding has a set of shell holders having different heights, possibly that might work.

Be sure your cases are trimmed to the correct length. And try sizing the case as much as your press, shell holder, and dies will allow. Don't "bust" any thing -- stay cool.

Bolt action rifles exert major forces on brass when that bolt handle is pushed down -- and that is not the situation with the #1.