poor ignition with Old Army - weak mainspring?

[woodpuppy]

I have a stainless Ruger old army that I traded for. It is in excellent condition,though not new as it has had the forcing cone cut to a lower angle and an action job. It is a joy to shoot when it does go whump. Unfortunately I am plagued with misfires, and I'm tired of holding a mis- or hang-fired gun for a minute......

I'm using CCI caps, which I seat with a wooden dowel in an attempt to improve ignition. Now, the misfiring cap always goes off on the second attempt, so I am thinking that my problem is either failure to seat the caps all the way, or a light hammer strike. I have a set of torch probes that I use to clean out the nipples with each loading, so I'm pretty sure fouled nipples are not my problem. They also do not appear to be deformed in the least. I am guessing part of the trigger job included lightening the mainspring, so I've looked up the replacement part on Midway. Before I buy, is there any difference between the factory Old Army part vs. a Blackhawk mainspring? I want ensured ignition over a light trigger!

thank you!
Dave

 

[Sam Johnson]

Yes ,, there is a difference, The ROA has a heavier, stronger spring than the Blackhawk. I have a spare ROA spring in my parts box if you are still looking.
Sam

 

[clayflingythingy]

Are you using a #10 or 11 percussion cap?

If you are using 10s it might be worthwhile trying 11s.

 

[Rick Courtright]

Hi,

Though not an Old Army, I've a percussion pistol that should use Remington #11s for best results, according to the mfr. I've used CCIs when I couldn't get the Remingtons. The guys who made the gun knew what they were talking about--the CCIs reacted just like your ROA: they'd all go bang but sometimes it took that second strike! There is a bit of difference in how they seat due to slightly different dimensions.

The other thing that mfr warned against was dry firing where the firing pin could hit the edge of the nipple and dull it some. I slipped up and dinged a couple of nipples, which gave me trouble until I replaced them. Dunno if that would happen on the ROA.

And, if the gun's had an action job, what are the chances you still have an unmodified factory spring in there? My limited experience is that Ruger doesn't choose their springs just on a whim!

Rick C

 

[rich e]

If they ignite on the second strike, then I would replace the nipples, over time they get peened over and its difficult to seat the cap fully on the nipple, so your first hammer strike is driving the cap over the peened end and seating the cap. The second strikes hits solidly so it fires the cap. Check out Dixie, Track of the Wolf or Log Cabin Shop, you should be able to find a set of replacement nipples.

 

[frontstuffers]

I would agree with clayflingythingy, first off, change caps. The CCI caps are much harder than most other brands. If you can find them, try the Remington. When you do, look at the cap. If memory serves, the Remington's have cuts in them. This helps the cap spread and makes it easier to remove. If you are getting the cap to go off on the second strike, then it isn't seated all the way down. What is happening is that the first strike is seating the cap, then the second strike sets it off. One way to check if the cap it the right size...how does it remove. If it is to small, then you may have to pry it off. I've even had to use a knive and cut some of them off. Another good cap is the RWS brand. Try the new cap routine first, it is the cheapest method of fix. You can always replace the spring later if this don't fix the problem.

Good luck. I have one of these in stainless also and they are a pleasure to shoot when everything goes right.

 

[flatgate]

it has had the forcing cone cut to a lower angle and an action job.

:shock: Ah-Ha! A frequent source of Ruger O.A. trouble is the so called "action job". Most folks associate an action job with a reduction in the effort to cock the hammer on their Single Action revolver. Gomer's Gunsprings makes a real light spring that'll really slick up your gun!!!

The Old Army is shipped with a 25# mainspring. The other Ruger Single Actions are shipped with 23# mainsprings. I've seen ads for 17# to 20# or so springs.

None of this crap gets put on my shooters. Period. I am not a Cowboy Action Shooter where the careful application of reduced springs can make a difference. I want to be able to sling lead at distant targets with total confidence in my gun and its' abilities. If I could only shoot as good as the guns can.......

flatgate

 

[woodpuppy]

Thanks for the replies. I've used the RWS caps on my c&b rifle and like them very well, but never find them locally. I'll try a new mainspring.