Old Blackhawk with a problem, or is this normal?

[Bpclay1]

It won't be my first Blackhawk, but it will be my only one. I work in a sporting goods store at the gun counter, where a used one came in and immediately had my name on it. I've been fondling it a bit, and I've noticed an issue. It is an old model, that's been updated with the transfer bar. When I open the latch, then half cock the hammer, it spins as it should. If I pull the hammer just a little too far then ease it back to half cock, the cylinder stop locks the cylinder in place. So if I accidentally pull the hammer a little past half cock, I can't spin or reload the cylinder.

The problem is easily remedied if I drop the hammer thel then half cock it more carefully. I'm worried though, that it may be a sign of a faulty cylinder stop? Or is this normal? I'm going to buy it either way, but they'll send it to ruger first if it's an actual issue. Thanks in advance for any advice.

As a side question, I'm wondering if anyone, in their infinite wisdom, could tell me the value of this gun? Like I said, it's an older model, updated with a transfer bar. I'm not sure if it's a 3 screw or not. Unfortunately, it's not got the original grips, and someone's put a "poly choke" rib on the top...

 

[Bpclay1]

* if anyone cares to take a stab at the value, it's a blued 6" and it's got three flat head screws on the loading latch side. In pretty good shape.

 

[DGW1949]

Don't do that. When you do, you are causing the bolt-arm to over run the bolt cam and release itself.

DGW

 

[Bpclay1]

Could you elaborate? Don't use my method of remedy? Don't pull it past half cock? Does that mean it's normal?

 

[contender]

Welcome to the Forum!
First,, what caliber?
If you think it has a 6" bbl,, it's more likely a 6-1/2" bbl. (Measure from the face of the cylinder to the end of the barrel.)
If so,, it's either a 357 or a 41 mag. Or,, even a bit rarer, a Flattop 44 mag.
A serial number & we could give you the year of production.
Yes,,, it's what we call a "3-screw" OM,,, but it has the safety conversion. All NM's have 2 pins,,, where your gun has 3 screws.
As noted,,, don't over cock it. If you do,, just fully cock it & lower the hammer & start over.
OR,,,,,,,,, BEST remedy,,,,, get a set of original parts & put it back to "as shipped" configuration. But if you do,,, you must never carry it fully loaded with 6 rounds. (Load one, skip one, load 4 & fully cock & lower the hammer on an empty chamber.)

As for value,,, more details are needed. The caliber & serial help a bunch. If you don't want to give the full serial,,, at least give us most of it. Example; 1234xx.

 

[Hondo44]

Could you elaborate? Don't use my method of remedy? Don't pull it past half cock? Does that mean it's normal?

It's not normal, it's worn.

The old model transfer bar conversion uses the Colt SAA design hammer cam/cyl bolt system. It's a step backward in engineering and the reason Ruger abandoned that system in 1953 when they introduced their new design which eliminated the cam on the hammer.

You're experiencing the proverbial old design problem; it wears and when it does, the cyl bolt comes up too early. Original action parts will fix it and still work right for your grandchildren. Parts can be found in the $100-125 ball park but not from Ruger. So I wouldn't pay more than $350, maybe $400 if it's an early old model, a flat top, for the gun as is with a worn out retrofit kit in it for a very nice old model.

Ruger can fix it, but with another conversion kit. That wouldn't enhance the value of the gun for me.

 

[DGW1949]

Could you elaborate? Don't use my method of remedy? Don't pull it past half cock? Does that mean it's normal?

What you are calling the "half cock notch" is actually the loading notch. It is also the position in which the cylinder latch (AKA bolt or cyl stop) has been lowered enough to allow the cylinder to be rotated. And, as you have seen, if ya move the hammer further towards it's firing position the latch gets released.
Having said that, the question at hand relative to your particular gun is "how much further should it move before doing so". The answer to that is "it depends"....meaning that as Hondo said, yours may have some worn parts which is causing the latch to be released too early. From what I've seen, it could also be that the mixed hodge-podge of designs which Ruger threw together for it's "safety conversion" was not properly fitted to begin with, or perhaps someone's attempt at "slicking it up" has resulted in the gun being either out of time, or very nearly so.
Can't say for sure without having the gun to look at.

Regardless of the exact "why" though, based on my experience of fooling with "converted" 3-screw Rugers, the characteristic which you describe is not what I'd call "normal".....and yeah, the gun needs to be fixed.

In the mean time...like I said, don't do that....meaning, don't keep experimenting with how far is too far, and don't (ever) lower the hammer from it's loading notch without first bringing it to the full cock position.

As for your "value" question....as a general rule, a "converted" 3-screw is worth about $150-$200 less than a comparable gun which isn't converted. Or leastways, that's how it usually goes in my neck of the woods.

Hope this helped.

DGW

 

[Bpclay1]

Thanks for all the replies. Everything very clear now, and I don't have to feel bad about having my store send it back to ruger to be checked out.