I really think that anyone gunsmith competent in metal and wood work can do whatever to a No.1 successfully. You might surf the net a little and see who is doing such work, then read reviews. Some of the gun net reviews are from guys that always has the work done, and know nothing about said work(glittering generalities); so choose carefully; and read for technical content to make an informed choice.
You did not state much about the specific No.1 you would be working with, or just a pure custom. Depending on the oem type, weight, style varies some; so will basic costs or professional costs for updates.
The 7.62 Soviet is a little vague to me, but do not get out much. I would suspect either the 7.62x39 or 54. The 30 TOK perhaps is the 7.62x25?, more of a pistol round. I do remember folks using the 7.62x25 necked up to 17 cal. Of course, the x39 is the PPC parent, and the 54 is pretty close to our 06. With the 39 version, I would be interested in whether the case are reloadable or if they are balloon type. The case exposure of the extractor/ejector slot is about 0.135" deep; plus the gapspace from the barrel to the breechblock.
Finding a smith that does No.1's can be trying, not that they cannot do the work, they do not want to work with No.1's because of the extra work involved with the timing of the ejector recess and the 4-6 screws in the barrel for the quarter rib or bases. Both are extra setups over the basic threading of a barrel in time spent. Trying to find TDC on a No.1 can be a trying endeavor.
With that said, most smiths will charge extra over the basic rebarreling figures, mainly due to the metal work of the ejector recess and the barrel screw hole work. I would guess around 250 nowadays for the basic metal work(varies from smith to smith), with the barrel blank being extra. One can buy CM barrel blanks for 150 bucks or stainless in the 210 range that are match grade. If you want the best, probably add another 50 or so. If you want higher priced barrels they are out there as well. Basically only talking round barrels, plain; not octagon, fluted etc. Blue is extra of course, stainless finish is less than bluing usually.
The extractor for the 39 is the PPC one, about 0.440". The standard 0.473 might pull the x39, might not. Ruger chambered for the PPC's. I do not know about the 54 or the x25, but suspect that one could start with a oem extractor and touch it. Some smiths use the chambering reamer for ejector/extractor mods, some are hesitant to do this and use other techniques on the odd headsize extractor headsizes.
On the 39, one might take a looksee into the bore diameter of the barrel chosen, is 308 or 311 the best choice?
With the x39 or the x25, I would certainly look into if ballonhead cases come into play and what the ruger case exposure does for you. Remington has made small primer type x39 cases that are of modern head design/strength for what that is worth.
I suspect you will talk with the smith of the day in great detail, but these are some things I would have thought about myself on a project like this.
Roof
