New Ruger American Compact Pistol- possible problem

[wing35]

I bought a brand new Ruger American Compact Pistol in 9mm and after cleaning and lubing it took it to the range. After almost 200 rounds, I got a failure to fire. Nothing looked wrong at first and I pulled back the slide to look and didn't see a problem, so I dropped the mag, reinserted it and still would not fire (Herter brass ammo). So I then realized that the slide was not fully seated in battery and I was unable to get it to do so. I tried to lock the slide back and it would not lock back. I asked a range worker to help and they couldn't do it either so I had to take it to the onsite gunsmith. He got the slide off and said he thought the recoil spring was jumping up off the guiderod. So I returned the gun to the dealer since it was warranted by Davidsons and they Fedexed me a new gun two days later.

So I took the new gun out to the range after cleaning and lubing it and again shot close to 200 rounds. I did not have the same problem but it did have two times where the empty casing stovepiped. The first time it easily popped out. The second time it was wedged in good with the pressure of the slide and the magazine would not release and I couldn't get the slide back enough to get the casing out. So I grabbed a key out of my pocket and used it to flick the casing out, at which point all worked fine again.

So, I'm not super experienced with pistols like many of you and just wondering g if the stovepipes were "normal" for a breaking in period or were possibly user error of some type or if I have another problem with another new gun?

 

[Rei40c]

So I took the new gun out to the range after cleaning and lubing it and again shot close to 200 rounds. I did not have the same problem but it did have two times where the empty casing stovepiped. The first time it easily popped out. The second time it was wedged in good with the pressure of the slide and the magazine would not release and I couldn't get the slide back enough to get the casing out. So I grabbed a key out of my pocket and used it to flick the casing out, at which point all worked fine again.

So, I'm not super experienced with pistols like many of you and just wondering g if the stovepipes were "normal" for a breaking in period or were possibly user error of some type or if I have another problem with another new gun?

Well you always want to be sure you are keeping a firm wrist on your shooting hand to ensure the slide cycles it's possible that is part of the issues. As to your question about the two stovepipes from my experience it depends. If I am firing decent ammo I would consider 2 stovepipes out of 200 troubling to me. If however I was firing bulk low grade ammo such as UMC yellow box (Sorry Remington!) then I would not be very surprised personally and consider the two failures to eject acceptable since I was using range ammo on the lower end of the quality scale.

A trick I was taught that is somewhat controversial by one of my instructors was in regards to a Kimber 1911. He complained about the break in needed for Kimbers in those days and stated they where just fit too "tight". As a solution he'd locked the slide back in the rear position and let it sit for a day or two with the recoil spring compressed. He stated this was also useful for other pistols failing to eject that he's learned over the years. It's controversial because according to an engineer, they would tell you it should make no difference. That the loading and unloading of pressure on the spring is the only thing that should cause it to weaken over time, not simply keeping it compressed for extended periods. Technically that is correct however many shooters have found this helps at times. In spite it not supposed to be helping according to the science. This argument often comes up in regards to springs inside of magazines as well.

If it where me I'd lock the slide to the rear, put it back in the case and let it sit a day. Run another 150 rounds or so of slightly higher quality range ammo through and see if things improve. You don't have to spend a fortune really on ammo. I'd avoid UMC, and Winchester White box. Blazer is slightly better I think, I've also had good luck with Fiocchi ammo, Magtech ammo is also very good range ammo for the price.

Good luck to you.

 

[wing35]

Thanks for the reply Blackhawk. While limp wristing is a possibility since I don't get out to shoot that much, I don't think that was the issue. If anything, I think I grip the pistol too tightly at times. I've been taught and have always used a high solid two handed combat grip. I'm wondering if one of my mags is the culprit. The ammo I was using was Herter brass ammo. Maybe not the best, but I think it is a solid ammo? Never had any problems with it before.

 

[Rei40c]

Thanks for the reply Blackhawk. While limp wristing is a possibility since I don't get out to shoot that much, I don't think that was the issue. If anything, I think I grip the pistol too tightly at times. I've been taught and have always used a high solid two handed combat grip. I'm wondering if one of my mags is the culprit. The ammo I was using was Herter brass ammo. Maybe not the best, but I think it is a solid ammo? Never had any problems with it before.

I'm not really sure about Herter as I've never fired it before. It may very well be fine I don't know. Since the problem seems to be related to ejection only and stovepipes my guess would be it's probably not the magazines. Usually the types of malfunctions magazines cause are double feeds, or failures to chamber where it may actually miss the round going into battery, or failure of the slide to lock back on the last shot.

I guess my suggestions are really intending more as possible troubleshooting ideas. Doing things like changing ammo brands or perhaps the grain of bullet or both. Going from 115 grain to 124 or vice versa for instance to see if your results improve. I'm assuming you have the 9mm and not the .45acp version? The easy things you can do before sending the pistol back if you are still troubled by it's performance. And that's different for every person. Some would accept a stovepipe every 200 rounds while others would be either selling it or sending it back.

 

[wing35]

Thanks BlackHawk. I welcome all feedback and suggestions. I called Ruger today to ask them about the stovepipes and they said 2 failures to eject in 200 rounds was acceptable. I also asked if the following was normal:
- With the mag out of the gun, when I pull back the slide to eject the bullet still in the chamber, the bullet falls out the magwell instead of going through the ejection port.
- If I leave an empty mag in the gun and rack the slide to eject the round in the chamber, it does go out the ejection port but it is very weak. Not like my SR9, which flies out of the ejection port whether there isa a mag in or not.

They said both of these are normal for this gun, that this gun does not by design behave exactly like the SR9. If no mag is inserted, it falls out the magwell because there is nothing to support it. If there is a mag in, it may eject weakly because it is not designed to mimic real firing conditions.

 

[tacticalreload]

(1) As for the ejection, as long as it ejects well during firing, I wouldn't worry about how it ejects live rounds when you manually cycle the slide.

(2) Personally, I wouldn't find a 1% failure rate to be acceptable.

(3) I've never used Herters, but a friend of mine bought a bunch when it was on sale; and he's had nothing but issues. I would try some Federal, Winchester, or Remington ammo. While I experienced no failures in my RAPc, it could be a break in / strong recoil spring issue. More likely, though... weak ammo has weak ejection. Also, thoroughly clean the pistol including under the extractor. Examine the extractor and ejector for signs of breakage. Then lube it properly, and try it again.

Good luck.

 

[gramps]

I noticed that your stove pipes were close to the end of a 200 round session. It sounds like your were tiring, and limp wristed. Good luck.
gramps

 

[modrifle3]

Two things to mention:

The RAP was developed in response to the US military's need for a modular handgun system. It would have been primary developed for the 124gr NATO round. So I imagine the recoil spring setup is going to be on the heavy side, so I would use better ammo to really test the pistol.

Also you mention its after firing about 200rds . . . how much lube are you using and how dirty is that ammo. Ruger only recommends lubricating 4 points on that pistol.

 

[Rob72]

I noticed that your stove pipes were close to the end of a 200 round session. It sounds like your were tiring, and limp wristed. Good luck.
gramps

I would agree. Have someone watch you from the side. If your muzzle has much notable rise, your wrists aren't locked. It isn't a matter of being "tight", as much as locking your wrists in-line with your forearm through the recoil pulse.

Bullet weight should make no difference. The CUP pressure for 124 gr and 115 gr 9mm is only about 4K CUP apart. Anything submitted for Mil trials has to be able to eat anything produced by any NATO manufacturer.

You have a captive guide rod- the spring can't come off. The rod won't jump the rear lug, unless something in the frame is seriously broken, or the rod's rear lug shears.

An easy "aid" would be to stick a TLR light on. More weight up front will help decrease muzzle rise, and drive recoil more rearward. Stovepiping is usually attributable to muzzle rise with limp wristing. (I.e., you're taking energy and travel away form your slide, causing it to catch the brass as it is trying to leave.) :wink: