Hylander
Blackhawk
Is there a way to make loading that first round from the mag easier. Takes a lot of force to to cock the pistol, loaded or empty.
Cured:
See post #32
Cured:
See post #32
Last edited:
MK III Hard charging (Cured post #32)
- Thread starter Hylander
- Start date
Hertervillian
Saluki
I have the same question.
The only MKIII I have is a 22/45....I don't have that issue. I don't have the issue with any of my MK pistols. 
TestEngineer
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2022
- Messages
- 285
Friction is the problem. Mine needed close to 20# of pull to cock right off. I went a little overboard eliminating it, but it now cocks easily with only 12# of pull. Everyone I let try cocking it gets a real goofy look on their face - disbelief really.
The single most overlooked source of friction is the mainspring plunger. Fill the cup with light oil and work the plunger up and down. Rotate the housing so the oil works its way all around the plunger. Just doing this can drop the cocking pull weight by nearly 5#.
Smoothing and deburring the bolt is next, but it takes a lot of effort because the bolt is extremely hard.
There's more that I did, but these yielded the biggest improvements.
The single most overlooked source of friction is the mainspring plunger. Fill the cup with light oil and work the plunger up and down. Rotate the housing so the oil works its way all around the plunger. Just doing this can drop the cocking pull weight by nearly 5#.
Smoothing and deburring the bolt is next, but it takes a lot of effort because the bolt is extremely hard.
There's more that I did, but these yielded the biggest improvements.
Reckon I've never noticed that problem. Try backing off 1-2 rounds loaded into the magazine and see if it's still difficult.
Is this a new gun? If so, contact Ruger.
If not, have you taken it down and reassembled it?
That was my thought.....possibly not reassembled correctly.
it is the basic issue of any autoloader when the bolt is closed, on an empty chamber, the hammer is forward, in the fired position, and you are pulling the bolt back, having to push ( ride up the front of the hammer) to cock it back until the sear engages and locks the hammer back, so it ready to fire again,,,,this action takes a lot of pressure and fairly strong hands ( grip) as noted above a little bit of oil ( lube) helps to ease the situation, as well as any deburring (polishing) of the opposing metal faces, riding against each other,,,,this does wear into itself with time, and use, and practice,,,one of the main reason some of us like the MK II coming into being as the bolt stayed back on the last shot, so you only had to release the bolt hold open or when the mag is reinserted, just give the bolt a little pull rearward, and the hold open releases and the bolt can be dropped ,released , and goes forward, feeding the top cartridge into the chamber, same for the MK III and now the MK IV...so yes, to pull it back initially can be quite hard ( heavy) for some of us ( getting older can be a challenge) or any ailments like arthritis, weak grip, numbing fingers, etc........ 
"and so it goes...." Wil Terry...may he rest in Peace
"and so it goes...." Wil Terry...may he rest in Peace
I recommend either a second helping of Wheaties w/whole milk every morning......or install a charging ring/bolt racker.
Hylander, I’ve seen this issue with some MK III’s as well. I’m convinced that Ruger put a stronger mainspring in the MK III’s, maybe to eliminate light strikes.
I’d follow Test Engineer’s idea about lubing that mainspring, working the oil down past the cup. Also make sure the top of the hammer is slick and the bolt where it runs. Those ideas will help most guns.
As I’m guessing your pull will still be too strong, next I’d swap out the mainspring. I think the II’s and III’s are compatible. Or buy a Volquartsen replacement.
Better yet… sell the Mark III and shoot a Mark II !
Good luck with this one!
TomD
I’d follow Test Engineer’s idea about lubing that mainspring, working the oil down past the cup. Also make sure the top of the hammer is slick and the bolt where it runs. Those ideas will help most guns.
As I’m guessing your pull will still be too strong, next I’d swap out the mainspring. I think the II’s and III’s are compatible. Or buy a Volquartsen replacement.
Better yet… sell the Mark III and shoot a Mark II !
Good luck with this one!
TomD
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Yes..I have 2 mk ones and 4 Mark 2s and none of them take much effort to cock...Maybe a design change for MK 3s
Yes! I have multiple Mark 2s, My opinion is they last of the great Mark series..Just my opinion..
I'll tear into it again.
Will debur, polish and lube.
Will also check mainspring pressure.
Another thing this pistol does not do, is lock the bolt back on last round.
If I cycle an empty mag by hand it locks back, but not when shooting.
And I ain't selling this, this is the most reliable and accurate 22 pistol.I have owned. And it's sexy
Will debur, polish and lube.
Will also check mainspring pressure.
Another thing this pistol does not do, is lock the bolt back on last round.
If I cycle an empty mag by hand it locks back, but not when shooting.
And I ain't selling this, this is the most reliable and accurate 22 pistol.I have owned. And it's sexy
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GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
My only MKIII is a 22/45 and it's got all aftermarket guts but it wasn't hard to charge when new and original. I polished my bolt too. Are the feed lips bent?
Try loading one round less in the mag.
Have you contacted the maker?
If it works, please, let us know what you did.
Is this issue related to just the Mark III?
I have a couple Mark II's and haven't noticed this. I also have a Mark IV 22/45 and when I insert a loaded magazine, and then pull the bolt back to load the first round, it pulls back so incredibly easy. I think It's the 22/45 Lite version. But you would think the internals are the same.
I have a couple Mark II's and haven't noticed this. I also have a Mark IV 22/45 and when I insert a loaded magazine, and then pull the bolt back to load the first round, it pulls back so incredibly easy. I think It's the 22/45 Lite version. But you would think the internals are the same.
Cleaned up a couple burrs on the bolt and bolt stop. Adjusted the ejector as the bolt was dragging on it. Work oil into the main spring plunger as suggested.
Test fired about 80-100 rounds of 4 different types of ammo.
Is a bit easier to charge now. I did order a lighter mainspring anyway.
Also ordered a Volquartsen bolt stop because it only lock back a few times on last round with 1200fps ammo, nothing slower or faster. Also tried other mags.
Thanks for all the help.
Test fired about 80-100 rounds of 4 different types of ammo.
Is a bit easier to charge now. I did order a lighter mainspring anyway.
Also ordered a Volquartsen bolt stop because it only lock back a few times on last round with 1200fps ammo, nothing slower or faster. Also tried other mags.
Thanks for all the help.
GasGuzzler
Hawkeye
Should lock back with all ammo that it can cycle. Mine did when stock and after heavily modified.
Have you tried adding a halo ring to the bolt? It gives you a much better grip to the bolt. The pull back is the same but you have a much more comfortable grip to hold onto the bolt. I have them on both of my MKII pistols. If you can't google and find them I can send you a link.
Recommended in post #13
