Mini14 Issues

Any suggestions on where I can purchase one?
I tapped my OEM bushing the screwed in a stainless steel screw and drilled the screw with a .041 drill bit. There used to be companies that sold the bushing but they usually were in packs of 5 or 10 bushings with different sized orifices. That would leave your with 4 or 9 bushings you wouldn't use so I made my own.
 
I tapped my OEM bushing the screwed in a stainless steel screw and drilled the screw with a .041 drill bit. There used to be companies that sold the bushing but they usually were in packs of 5 or 10 bushings with different sized orifices. That would leave your with 4 or 9 bushings you wouldn't use so I made my own.
👍🏻
 
The mini 14 is way over gassed in my opinion but Ruger does it for reliability. As others have stated what you’re seeing with your bass is normal and a change to the gas bushing will reduce the denting and the brass won’t eject as far. If you’re handy you can easily make your own bushing. I made a bushing for mine by cutting off the end of a 3/16 drill bit. My factory bushing measured .262” long with a diameter of .185” and a .090” orifice. I drilled a hole in the center of it on a drill press. I settled on a .045” bit for the orifice and also tapered the port. I hand load and wanted to keep the damage to the bass to as little as possible. The bushing worked perfectly, very minimal marks on the brass and they all land about 15 feet away. If you’re getting 1” groups at 100 yards that’s a pretty accurate mini 14, I don’t think I’d do anything to change it. I attached a picture of the one I made and one off eBay for reference.
 

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Nice job.
What happens with the restricted exhaust gases? Pressure going into the bushing is the same, pressure coming out of the bushing is reduced. It has a vent somewhere.
How do you drill through a drill bit with a drill bit? The hardness is the same.
 
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Any gasses that don't pass through the port will vent out the muzzle after the bullet exits I expect.

Carbide drill bits will go thorough HSS. Also, masonry bits with the carbide tips will drill through hardened steel.
 
Nice thing about the adjustable gas block, you can make it into a bolt action, or throw the brass 30 feet or anything in between. Just turn the knob. Worth the money IMHO.
 
Nice job.
What happens with the restricted exhaust gases? Pressure going into the bushing is the same, pressure coming out of the bushing is reduced. It has a vent somewhere.
How do you drill through a drill bit with a drill bit? The hardness is the same.
I used what I had on hand. I know the 3/16 bit was HSS and the center where I drilled the orifice hole didn’t seem that hard, the small .045 bit cut through it like butter. And as s4s4u noted the gas goes out the end of the barrel. I also cut one with a .040” bit but it only ejected the brass a couple feet. I went and found the bits I used and attached the pictures for you.
 

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Nice job.

I used what I had on hand. I know the 3/16 bit was HSS and the center where I drilled the orifice hole didn't seem that hard, the small .045 bit cut through it like butter. And as s4s4u noted the gas goes out the end of the barrel. I also cut one with a .040" bit but it only ejected the brass a couple feet. I went and found the bits I used and attached the pictures for you.
FWIW the .045 is what I ended up using and works well. Launches solid with just about everything, but not too much
 
From the FWIW Dept:
Due to changes in barrel diameter over the years, coupled with Ruger's somewhat sloppy workmanship, Mini-14 gas-bushings are not all the same length, and can vary up to .010-.012" or so. The factory orifice size has changed over the years also. About the only dimension that seems to remained consistent among the various models and years is the O.D. , which should be .185"........The bushing that came in my 582-series model #5801 measured .2645" long, and had a .0101" orifice installed from the factory.........The bushings that ASI sell are almost never the right length and they know that. They purposely make them too long, which requires the buyer to either fit them to match the length of their original, or pay someone else to do it....If it's too short, the ends won't seal. If it's too long, the lower half of the gas block won't sit flush against the barrel, which in turn will cause the block itself to shove against the bushing so hard that it will lock-up the gas piston and keep it from self-centering inside it's recess in the cylinder during the firing cycle. In other words, if the gas piston doesn't exhibit a bit of "wiggle" when the job is done, your bushing is still too long....And don't over-tighten the gas block screws. A torque value of 25 inch-pounds is plenty. Tighten the screws gradually in an "X" pattern. And do insure that the gap on both sides of the block assembly are equal when finished. Automotive feeler gauges work fine for that.....One more thing to watch; If you choose to make your own bushing(s), beware of using too soft of a material when picking what alloy you want to use. If it's not hard enough, the end of the new bushing will mushroom, seize-up in it's recess, and make removal rather difficult.....Hope this helps.

DGW
 
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I have a new Mini14 5.56/.223 with less than 500 rounds through it and have been experiencing damage to the casing on ejection. The middle of the casing is getting dented, the primer end is getting burrs and the projectile end is being crushed. It started out with just a small marring on the casing and by the time I got through 90 rounds it had progressed to the above description.
Does anyone have any ideas for what is going on?
i have encountered similar problems in my SFAR. violent extraction too much gas, but you dont have an adjustable gas block. are you shooting military 556 in a 223 chamber? i dont know if ruger does the wylde chamber now or not. i dont even know the rifling twist now. i would try factory 223 rem 55 grain bullets. if it doesnt change send it back they are very good about customer service.
 
Sorry if I offended you with my response. I should have said that in my experience (I have never owned one, but the one a friend had) was very efficient at banging out .223, but was so inaccurate that it was a waste of time and money trying to hit anything over 75 yards with it. So, I advised you to sell it and buy a better rifle. JMHO

I do apologize for not addressing the specifics of your question. I no longer own one, but my Colt AR 15 did not abuse brass in such a way. In fact, my ejected brass from said rifle looked no worse than that ejected from a bolt action. Again, just my personal experience, no offense intended.
i bought my 1st one 1976 another was used 1980 model mounted a scope was not conducive stock/cheek or accuracy beyond 100. hope that has improved . i'm AR only now and reload relatively unmolested brass. if you dont reload then i wouldn't worry. sorry i repeated same stuff before i read all the others.
 
Over the years, I spent frustrating time trying to get several Mini-14's to shoot with something better than dinner-plate accuracy. I finally succeeded...by switching to the AR.

If you'd shown that brass and asked, "What rifle were these shot out of?"... Mini-14.
 
Over the years, I spent frustrating time trying to get several Mini-14's to shoot with something better than dinner-plate accuracy. I finally succeeded...by switching to the AR.

If you'd shown that brass and asked, "What rifle were these shot out of?"... Mini-14.
I have one of each. Both of them are accurate at 100yds and fill specific niches in my armory. Unregistered AR’s are illegal in my state, need I say more?
 
i bought my 1st one 1976 another was used 1980 model mounted a scope was not conducive stock/cheek or accuracy beyond 100. hope that has improved . i'm AR only now and reload relatively unmolested brass. if you dont reload then i wouldn't worry. sorry i repeated same stuff before i read all the others.
Appreciate the input.
 
From the FWIW Dept:
Due to changes in barrel diameter over the years, coupled with Ruger's somewhat sloppy workmanship, Mini-14 gas-bushings are not all the same length, and can vary up to .010-.012" or so. The factory orifice size has changed over the years also. About the only dimension that seems to remained consistent among the various models and years is the O.D. , which should be .185"........The bushing that came in my 582-series model #5801 measured .2645" long, and had a .0101" orifice installed from the factory.........The bushings that ASI sell are almost never the right length and they know that.
Thanks for the information. I will be pursuing a resolution this week.
 
I have a new Mini14 5.56/.223 with less than 500 rounds through it and have been experiencing damage to the casing on ejection. The middle of the casing is getting dented, the primer end is getting burrs and the projectile end is being crushed. It started out with just a small marring on the casing and by the time I got through 90 rounds it had progressed to the above description.
Does anyone have any ideas for what is going on?
I just want to thank everyone for all of their information and suggestions. After evaluating everything I went with the Accuracy Systems Mini14 bushing kit. I went with the.045 bushing. The bushing’s length was oversized so I ground it down to match the original bushing’s length. After putting about 50 rounds through it I was very happy with the results. The casings are now consistently deposited 12-14’ away. There is still a ding in the side of the casings but the crushing of the neck and burring of the primer end has ceased. I may install the.040 bushing in the future but for now I am happy with the way it is working now.
Thanks again!
 

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