Matte stainless

[Acorn]

I've re-done a couple SS revolvers with a scotch brite that turned out great but what is the best way to repair the matte finish on a revolver's top strap. I don't have access to a bead blast cabinet. Maybe a hand held blaster? If so what media?
Thanks

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I've re-done a couple SS revolvers with a scotch brite that turned out great but what is the best way to repair the matte finish on a revolver's top strap. I don't have access to a bead blast cabinet. Maybe a hand held blaster? If so what media?
Thanks

I use a hand held blaster more often than not. I mask off any areas that I don't want blasted (blue painters tape works well) and then hit the areas I do want to be "no-glare" with #150 grit aluminum oxide.

 

[dleong]

If your intent is to duplicate Ruger's factory matte satin stainless finish, you might want to give 3M's 800-grit "WETORDRY" automotive sandpaper (Item# 03022) a try. I've found that it's almost a perfect match for the factory finish. I've had excellent results using it to polish out minor scratches from my stainless Ruger revolvers. For example, I recently shimmed the hammer of my GP100 to eliminate any rubbing against the frame, and polished out the old abrasions/scratches using the 3M sandpaper. This is what the hammer looks like now:

 

[rugerguy]

various papers or pads are just fine for most all over and around about any firearm,BUT the top strap or the top of a vent rib, that is "matte finished" as noted above needs to be bead blasted, we always used "used" glass beads we got from the wire department of where we used to work, and always used 'low' pressure ,yes must tape off the sides, to get the proper finish difference of the sides, versus the top strap of a "matte" finish....YES, you can use a 'pad' for the top strap of say a GP100 or Security six and so on.......with practice and time, it works out great 8)