Mark I Recoil Spring and Ammo Questions...

[Montelores]

Hi, all -

A Mk.I that I haven’t shot before, excellent condition, 6 7/8”, outstanding shooter, cycled well with Federal AutoMatch (325 round box, 1200 FPS.), cycled less consistently with Federal Premium Target Gold Medal (1080 FPS.)

Great accuracy with both brands.

Is it advisable to replace the recoil spring on this (possibly) 50 year-old Ruger?

Is there a preferred ammo velocity for this model?

My Mk.III seems to shoot / function well with both of these ammos, so any advice is appreciated...

Thanks -

Monty

 

[Pat-inCO]

Since they are only $8, I would just make the change.

The manual says "The Ruger Automatic pistol is chambered only for the .22 caliber
Long Rifle cartridge, standard velocity or high velocity, manufactured to Industry
Standards." - - - Your guess is probably better than mine.

 

[Mobuck]

Since the pistol functions well with higher velocity ammo and less so with "weaker" ammo, I'd say you may need to clean and re-lube. These are the symptoms presented by my 22/45 pistols when they get really filthy inside. As noted, it isn't a big deal to replace the spring. I just don't think that's the issue.

 

[woodsy]

I too have a Mark 1, from about 1970 (?), with 50,000 rounds through it, and still the original recoil spring. Functions flawlessly (always has), even with the slightly slower Target ammo, which I prefer. A weakened spring (from much firing) would simply result in a slightly snappier recoil. A new spring might require more energetic rounds. Don't know what you mean by "cycled less consistently". I would change ammo if necessary, or look at maybe the mag being the culprit. I have one mag which I don't use, preferring two others instead.

 

[Montelores]

Thank you both -

I will change the spring, inexpensive maintenance.

I have tended to purchase standard velocity ammo for my revolvers, less “spitting” at the b/c gap.

The AutoMatch seems to be a good all-around ammo -

Monty

 

[Mobuck]

A couple of my 22's do quite well with the AutoMatch.

 

[Montelores]

I too have a Mark 1, from about 1970 (?), with 50,000 rounds through it...

Thanks for the information - it's helpful.

Great pistol, I'm sorry that I let it languish in the safe for so long!

With the Federal Target Gold Medal, there wasn't consistent cycling - the cases wouldn't eject fully, hanging up and needing to be cleared.

Not so with the AutoMatch - cycled perfectly every time.

Both were very accurate, difficult to pick a winner between the two.

I tend to use lower velocity ammo in my .22 handguns, the HV stuff usually in the rifles.

Thanks again -

Monty

 

[Montelores]

A couple of my 22's do quite well with the AutoMatch.

Thanks - I agree - even in the revolvers -

Monty

 

[Dan in MI]

I'm no wizard at this but I'm thinking a new spring won't help.

The lower velocity ammo is hanging up. A new spring is going to be stiffer (or equal) so the pressure to cycle will be equal or more than you have now. If the gun isn't cycling fast enough to let the case clear you are making it worse. If it is short cycling, again worse. If it is cycling too fast I'm not sure which way that would go. Slower cycle due to more resistance or faster cycler due to more return pressure.

Now if you clean and lube it well. The slower ammo may gain enough velocity to fully cycle. It just rings of a slow bolt moving to me. And cleaning is free!

Or I am completely full of crap and my logic train derailed.

 

[woodsy]

I'm no wizard at this but I'm thinking a new spring won't help.

The lower velocity ammo is hanging up. A new spring is going to be stiffer (or equal) so the pressure to cycle will be equal or more than you have now. If the gun isn't cycling fast enough to let the case clear you are making it worse. If it is short cycling, again worse. If it is cycling too fast I'm not sure which way that would go. Slower cycle due to more resistance or faster cycler due to more return pressure.

Now if you clean and lube it well. The slower ammo may gain enough velocity to fully cycle. It just rings of a slow bolt moving to me. And cleaning is free!.

That's kind of half of what I implied earlier. A new spring is not the answer.

 

[Montelores]

I'm no wizard at this but I'm thinking a new spring won't help.

The lower velocity ammo is hanging up. A new spring is going to be stiffer (or equal) so the pressure to cycle will be equal or more than you have now. If the gun isn't cycling fast enough to let the case clear you are making it worse. If it is short cycling, again worse. If it is cycling too fast I'm not sure which way that would go. Slower cycle due to more resistance or faster cycler due to more return pressure.

Now if you clean and lube it well. The slower ammo may gain enough velocity to fully cycle. It just rings of a slow bolt moving to me. And cleaning is free!.

That's kind of half of what I implied earlier. A new spring is not the answer.

Quoting here to answer both responses -

I phrased my OP poorly - I actually was asking 2 separate questions.

I'm fine with the AutoMatch ammo, it shoots quite accurately and consistently.

I do understand that a new spring might have more resistance.

I just wasn't sure if a spring change mightn't be prudent on a 50 year-old pistol.

Probably not a bad idea -

Thanks again -

Monty

 

[Xsales]

Yep the spring is not the issue
More so a cleaning & lube, making sure all is clear and free flowing

Lighter ammo may/can hang up the recoil (less pressure) where obviously heavier rounds will produce more recoil (more pressure) and less issues

The spring while is very easy to replace won't cause this

 

[Johnnu2]

I had a 40+ year old .22 auto pistol that I literally had never fired more than 100 rounds through... bought it new. Had the same problem you have and guessed the lower velocity would not work because the gun was not "broken in".... I fired 500 rounds of mini-mags through it and BINGO, all better with whatever I feed it now. I'm thinking I got lucky because who would think a cheap (it was an Iver Johnson) pocket auto (TP-22) would need a break in period.
FWIW,
J

 

[Montelores]

Thank you both.

It cycles flawlessly with the Federal Automatch (black and white box with the bullseye) and the new Ruger Mk.I magazine from my LGS.

I have cleaned and oiled it - I can’t believe that I left this sitting my safe for so long.

It’s crazy accurate and consistent.

Monty

 

[Dave P.]

I've got one of those that I bought new, it's had lots of rounds fired
in it over the last 40 some years I've had it.
Different brands of .22 ammo do vary slightly in dimensions. I'd look
very closely at the extractor and notch or slot it rides in.
One mine the ejector that's riveted in position had become loose also. I made
up a small mandrel to slip in to peen the rivet a bit and eliminated
the "slop" in it. Only other issue it ever had was a broken firing pin a few years
ago
Dave

 

[Jeepnik]

My standard advice for failure issues is clean it. You’d be amazed at how many ills this will cure. Especially if it’s sat unused for a bit.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Since the pistol functions well with higher velocity ammo and less so with "weaker" ammo, I'd say you may need to clean and re-lube. These are the symptoms presented by my 22/45 pistols when they get really filthy inside. As noted, it isn't a big deal to replace the spring. I just don't think that's the issue.

Really? On the Ruger Mark I pistol? The recoil assembly spring rod is crimped at the rear end ahead of the yoke that goes against the bolt stop pin. The front end of the recoil spring assembly rod is peened over to hold it in place on the half-moon piece that fits into the groove in the front end of the bolt. This allows the recoil spring rod to slide forward during the bolt cycling sequence.
To declare that the recoil spring is EASILY replaced on the older versions of the Ruger Standard, Mark I, II, III & 22/45 pistols, is something I'd sure like to see done. Especially on the front end of the recoil spring assembly rod. I have done several, and it's a very involved process.
I wouldn't replace the recoil spring unless it was broken into two or three sections, which I have seen several times.

 

[Jeepnik]

Just thinking. I wonder if Ruger or one of the various parts suppliers offers the rod and spring assembled.

That said my MK I is from the late 60's early 70's. Other than cleaning it's required no parts replacement. I have no idea how many thousands of round have gone through it, but it's a bunch.

 

[45flattop]

Just thinking. I wonder if Ruger or one of the various parts suppliers offers the rod and spring assembled.

That said my MK I is from the late 60's early 70's. Other than cleaning it's required no parts replacement. I have no idea how many thousands of round have gone through it, but it's a bunch.

I am not sure which 3rd party supplier of MK series pistol small parts it is but
I believe that either Volquartsen and or TANDEMKROSS sells a rod and spring
assembly already to drop in, I don't know if Ruger sells the assembly as a unit
or not, here are the links to VQ and TANDEMKROSS

https://volquartsen.com/

https://www.tandemkross.com/

 

[Jeepnik]

Well, that right there is the solution to the problem if a good cleaning doesn't work.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Volquartsen does sell a "recoil spring kit". The recoil spring assembly has three recoil springs, reduced, normal & extra power. Now, these kits do actually make changing springs quite easy. The original style recoil spring assembly does not. I have done it, but it's a PITA to do. We stock and use this kit quite often:

 

[Dan in MI]

There is always Ruger or Ebay for a replacement assembly.

 

[45flattop]

Volquartsen does sell a "recoil spring kit". The recoil spring assembly has three recoil springs, reduced, normal & extra power. Now, these kits do actually make changing springs quite easy. The original style recoil spring assembly does not. I have done it, but it's a PITA to do. We stock and use this kit quite often:

I might well have shot my mouth off before double checking my answer, if so,
forgive me please. I have now double checked the VQ website looking for the
spring kit that SGW Gunsmith has confirmed that they do sell but had no luck
SO FAR. I would highly appreciate it if SGW could post a link to the kit directly
in case I'm grossly overlooking it, thanks.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Try giving Volquartsen a phone call.

 

[Montelores]

Thanks to everyone for sharing their knowledge and experience...

So I will circle back to my original questions:


Is it advisable to replace the recoil spring on this (possibly) 50 year-old Ruger?

Is there a preferred ammo velocity for this model?

My Mk.III seems to shoot / function well with both of these ammos, so any advice is appreciated...

Thanks -

Monty

I have placed in bold text the root of my concerns.

I'll phrase it another way, since I really wasn't clear -


Can a 50+ year-old recoil / mainspring function properly, without damaging the gun?


Thanks again -

Monty

 

[Jeepnik]

Yes, a 50+ spring can function properly. It all depends on how much it was used in those 50+ years. If is doubt, or it makes you feel better, change the spring it's cheap and easy.

 

[45flattop]

Try giving Volquartsen a phone call.

As it happened, I found one of those VQ packages the spring kit comes in
left over from when I rebuilt an older quite tired MKI and found the item
key on the reverse, VC3RS and the search link on the VQ site promptly
took me there so I ordered a couple for future use. I do have to wonder
why VQ has items for sale that are not on their website under any category
I could think of, I would assume that costs them sales revenue. I didn't
try calling them since it is the weekend and the best I would hope for is
a recording/answering machine.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

If, by chance, anyone here does try to actually change the spring on a Ruger factory recoil spring assembly, it would be interesting to read just how easy that endeavor was. Here's a pic of a Ruger factory "recoil spring assembly". These parts may not even be available from Ruger any longer:

The front end of the spring rod is peened over to maintain that front piece in place. If you do remove the peened area, be prepared to see the spring take off quickly, along with that front part, and then, be prepared to re-peen the end of the spring guide rod over again to keep the "new" spring in place. Just make sure that the rod is not shortened any, during this easy task. Let us know just how much fun you had.

 

[langenc]

Probably worried about getting it back together in less than couple hrs after cleaning.
Good luck-just get the dangle in the pocket and it will pop right together.