Is this a known MK2 22/45 problem?

[prickett]

My Mark 2 22/45 started having failure to extract issues recently. I bought a new extractor and spring thinking that was the problem. It wasn't. Upon further investigation I found that the metal on the top of the chamber had a small lip formed by what I think was the guide rod contacting the metal just above the cylinder (that seems to be the only thing that would be in position to cause this). I took a dremel and knocked off the lip and all seems good.

I'm just wonder if this is a known issue and if there is something I need to do to prevent it from reoccurring (new recoil spring???).

 

[dingode]

I'd guess the firing pin more than the guide rod. Check to be sure that the firing pin isn't broke and the stop pin isn't bent, allowing the pin to go out too far and contact the chamber mouth. I read once of Ruger using roll pins for the firing pin stop pins due to supplier issues I believe and the roll pins were subject to bending.

They at one time made a device to push that ding back out of the chamber mouth. I heard they are out of stock and no longer made, but you should be able to find a gunsmith that has one. A call to Ruger couldn't hurt either. Good luck, let us know what you find.

 

[rugerguy]

when we did repairs for High Standard years ago, we used a Sears tapered punch and "swaged" the dings from firing pin hits back out....just a simple tap with a hammer does it, do NOT grind out out as you will lose material....same thing often happens with an improper fitted extractor, will ding ( push) material into the chamber , causing extraction issues............that area of the chamber is very thin..... :wink:

 

[prickett]

I'd guess the firing pin more than the guide rod. Check to be sure that the firing pin isn't broke and the stop pin isn't bent, allowing the pin to go out too far and contact the chamber mouth. I read once of Ruger using roll pins for the firing pin stop pins due to supplier issues I believe and the roll pins were subject to bending.

They at one time made a device to push that ding back out of the chamber mouth. I heard they are out of stock and no longer made, but you should be able to find a gunsmith that has one. A call to Ruger couldn't hurt either. Good luck, let us know what you find.

I think you are on to something here!

I don't have a roll pin, I have one of the solid ones, and it is not bent. The firing pin is not broken.

But, I'm now thinking it is, as you suggested, the firing pin is causing the problem. I'm thinking its from pulling the trigger each time I clean, then reassemble, ending with me pulling the trigger to uncock the gun (IOW, dry firing it).

 

[prickett]

when we did repairs for High Standard years ago, we used a Sears tapered punch and "swaged" the dings from firing pin hits back out....just a simple tap with a hammer does it, do NOT grind out out as you will lose material....same thing often happens with an improper fitted extractor, will ding ( push) material into the chamber , causing extraction issues............that area of the chamber is very thin..... :wink:

Thanks! Good the know a better solution. Unfortunately, I did the Dremel solution this morning. But now I know what to do in the future. Thanks again!

 

[recumbent]

This is what I have used.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/chamber-tools/22-chamber-ironing-tool-prod8869.aspx?dym=y

 

[Mobuck]

"I found that the metal on the top of the chamber had a small lip formed by what I think was the guide rod contacting the metal just above the cylinder"

Has/had the pistol been dry-fired much?

 

[prickett]

This is what I have used.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/chamber-tools/22-chamber-ironing-tool-prod8869.aspx?dym=y

Excellent! (except the discontinued part). Now I know what to look for.

Thanks!

 

[prickett]

"I found that the metal on the top of the chamber had a small lip formed by what I think was the guide rod contacting the metal just above the cylinder"

Has/had the pistol been dry-fired much?

Not too much. But I have owned it for at least a decade. And I do pull the trigger after each cleaning. I'm guessing that was enough to cause the problem, so I won't be doing that anymore.

 

[wwb]

.............But I have owned it for at least a decade. And I do pull the trigger after each cleaning. I'm guessing that was enough to cause the problem, so I won't be doing that anymore.

Before you pack up to leave the range, pick up an empty. After you're done cleaning it, stick the empty in the chamber, orienting it so the previous firing pin strike is not in front of the firing pin, close the bolt, and pull the trigger. A free snap cap.

 

[Mobuck]

Two of my rules for the 22/45:
Don't clean it until it chokes and don't snap it regardless of other advice.

 

[prickett]

.............But I have owned it for at least a decade. And I do pull the trigger after each cleaning. I'm guessing that was enough to cause the problem, so I won't be doing that anymore.

Before you pack up to leave the range, pick up an empty. After you're done cleaning it, stick the empty in the chamber, orienting it so the previous firing pin strike is not in front of the firing pin, close the bolt, and pull the trigger. A free snap cap.

Great advice. I like it!

 

[prickett]

Two of my rules for the 22/45:
Don't clean it until it chokes and don't snap it regardless of other advice.

I always was under the impression that you could dry fire Rugers. I've learned that is not true!

I'm one of those sicko's who cleans after every range trip. Its not the cleaning that was the issue, it was the firing to drop the hammer that was the problem. I now know to either use a snap cap, a fired case, or leave it cocked.

Gee, its almost like when a bunch of people say not to do something (dry fire rim fires), that maybe they know what they are talking about :shock:

 

[TxGun]

The MK IIs do have a firing pin stop (Ruger part # A03500...KA03500 if stainless) that is specifically meant to prevent chamber-edge marring. Now, if that part is missing, bent, or broken, that could be a potential problem. And even if the FP stop is working properly, I would not recommend unlimited dry firing. That's just my personal opinion. But the occasional dry fire such as during, or after, cleaning should not be an issue as Ruger obviously addressed that eventuality with the FP stop. In any case, there is a pretty informative thread on this question over at the 'other' Ruger forum (.net) if you're interested.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

My Mark 2 22/45 started having failure to extract issues recently. I bought a new extractor and spring thinking that was the problem. It wasn't. Upon further investigation I found that the metal on the top of the chamber had a small lip formed by what I think was the guide rod contacting the metal just above the cylinder (that seems to be the only thing that would be in position to cause this). I took a dremel and knocked off the lip and all seems good.

I'm just wonder if this is a known issue and if there is something I need to do to prevent it from reoccurring (new recoil spring???).

Sounds like a "chamber mouth ding" from the firing pin. Check your firing pin stop pin in your bolt to see if it's still there, fallen out or maybe bent. The chamber ironing tool made by Menck is no longer available. Most all suppliers list it as OOS.

In some very rare cases, I have found a "dimple" on the front end of the recoil spring guide rod in the bolt, which did indeed leave a tiny divot in the breech face, but it usually happens higher up than the chamber mouth edge.