How Does Gunbroker Work?

[Montelores]

Hi, all -

Can someone give me a brief explanation about Gunbroker?

What are the pitfalls and problems?

Are there any "traps" to avoid?

Thanks to everyone -

Monty

 

[BlkHawk73]

Basically it's ebay for firearms. You find, you bid, high bid wins. As with anything, know what you're buying and ask question before placing bids. Check the seller's feedback. If there's a question on their integrity, don't bid. Read the entire description, including shipping info/costs. Be sure you are able to have a local FFL holder to do the transfer for you before you bid. "Trap" occur when you bid without reading and doing your homework first.

 

[Fox Mike]

What ^ said. I have bid and won on numerous occasions. If you win the bid you will receive an email explaining the procedure you need to follow to pay and obtain the weapon. Only had a small problem with one seller and found out later that the reason he didn't reply to me in a timely manner was he was on vacation. The one thing I would caution anyone bidding is to NOT get into a 'bidding war'. Pick the top price you would be willing to pay and never go higher. You also have to take into account the shipping cost as well as whatever the local FFL charges you when figuring your top bid. I never bid on anything with a 'reserve'.

 

[rugerguy]

what the guys said above, good points...just gotta remember you are buying something you cannot "see,touch, or check over, FIRST..." and some folks on line or not, may not have any clue as to what they really have OR they do KNOW or know enough to pull the wool over ones eyes, so the points about "doing your homework" are very valid, one has to have some knowledge of just what they are bidding on.......................many of us KNOW who we are dealing with, "up front" and know there will not be any problems in the dealing or the follow-up...........
as I often say "careful you do NOT buy a pig in a poke..."
For the MOST part, overall, gun broker works...........

 

[Montelores]

Thansk, all. Good advice, should I choose to make an offer/bid.

rugerguy, your post sums up my concerns. The fact that I cannot determine the condition of the gun other than from a photo and a description from the seller has me worried.

Actually, I have been looking for a specific revolver, and my LGS owner pointed me to GB.

His feeling is that the external appearance probably correlates pretty well to the actual condition of the piece, so bid accordingly.

I might give it a stab, because we really don't see many used handguns where I live - lots of used rifles (we are in deer/elk country).

Also, shouldn't the Seller display the serial number of the gun?

Thanks again for your help -

Monty

P.S. I just researched this Seller's history, and he has 10 pages of good and excellent reviews, mostly about delivery or payment. Does that tell me anything about his representation of the firearm?

 

[Mike Mulligan]

All great advice so far! I have bought and sold on GB and AA and have for the most part had very positive experiences. Read the site guidelines, ask questions, and expect a screw up once in a while. Some of my best experiences have come out of sorting out a snafu. For many years sales via advertisements and the internet have generally included a no firing/alteration inspection period (usually a few days) with return allowed if it is not as described (expect a loss on shipping fees- but not always). I have bid on items with reserve prices, but always set my own limit on anything I bid on. Sometimes I get it, sometimes not!

added: a close look at the feedback should reveal some comments about the condition of the items- weigh those along with the payment shipping comments. Ask for extra pics too.

 

[Montelores]

Thanks, Mike -

I just requested add'l photos and the Serial number (for confirmation).

Best -

Monty

 

[Capn27]

Be double sure you have calculated all of the costs involved. In Washington state, for example, the State Department of Revenue

has decreed that FFL holders who receive a gun from out-of-state must collect sales tax when transferring it to the buyer.

If they fail to do so, or if they collect insufficient tax based on the the value of the gun - no matter what the actual price paid was - they stand to lose their state firearms license.

So, for me, the cost involves the price for the gun, the shipping, the FFL fee

($40 locally) plus State sales tax on the whole mess, including shipping!

A $300 pistol will end up costing about $400 by the time all is paid. I will not buy guns that way anymore. I'd much rather buy in-state from a private party and pay him the $400 instead of forking over the money to middlemen. I can look at the merchandise before I buy it. Besides which, there won't be any paperwork (at least not yet).

 

[smitty_bs]

+1 to all the comments above. I would add that reputible sellers provide a three day no shoot policy where you can return the gun but pay shipping if you are not satisfied. This gives you some comfort level. I have purchased from a "no returns" seller and was still satisfied, but generally I don't consider buying from them. Same goes for "Reserve" sellers.

 

[BeagleDog]

I have used GB quite a bit and I have never had an issue. The folks above have the best advice in that you MUST read all the conditions. I never buy anything instate as I would then have to pay sales tax. I have a good buddy that's an FFL and he just charges me $10. Maybe you can develop a relationship like that in the future.

However, PLEASE go to gunsamerica.com. I firmly believe it's the best way to see what the market is doing. They are not an auction site but simply a place where sellers list their guns for sale. So, for example, if you are looking for a Marlin Guide Gun you can search for that and probably get 50 or so sellers and you may see one dealer trying to sell it for $700 and then see another dealer selling the exact same gun for $550. So I then go to GB and see if I can get one for less than GA. I RARELY do. I find GB to be more expensive than gunsamerica probably 90% of the time. And I have never had an issue with GA - ever! Give it a shot and I assure you will find it to be about the best gun site on the internet - and I have tried them all!

However I would like to add that GB is VERY good in accessories like holsters and primers etc.

 

[Montelores]

Thanks again.

The Seller contacted me with the serial number (with one digit replaced by an "x"), which I would have thought would be a requirement.

Without a serial number, a substitution for another gun could be made, and there might be difficulty in proving that.

Or am I overthinking this?

Monty

 

[BeagleDog]

Thanks again.

The Seller contacted me with the serial number (with one digit replaced by an "x"), which I would have thought would be a requirement.

Without a serial number, a substitution for another gun could be made, and there might be difficulty in proving that.

Or am I overthinking this?

Monty

I don't think you are. If you are looking for a specific #, say to complete a set, how else would you know? But you won't see many serial numbers on any gun site so it's the norm - asking is the only way to go.

 

[redhawker]

If you live in Commiefornia watch out for the "we don't ship to California" auctions. (which is a whole other discussion thread).

 

[Rick Courtright]

If you live in Commiefornia watch out for the "we don't ship to California" auctions. (which is a whole other discussion thread).

Hi,

And don't be afraid to ask about that policy. I've seen basically three versions:

--Some sellers want you to call first to verify things. Some charge extra for the CA paperwork and just want you to understand the charges.

--Some don't understand the procedures to sell/ship to California and/or simply don't want to go to the trouble. However, I've seen a couple, who, after they got called out on their policy, learned what needed to be done and changed it.

--And then there are some I probably wouldn't deal w/ face to face right here in State.

Ya gotta ask!

Rick C

 

[toysoldier]

If you know a lot about what you are buying, and have the patience to comb through lots of postings, you can find an occasional bargain. I bought a Prussian sword for less than half of what such swords were selling for, just because the seller didn't know what he had, and I found the post buried in a bunch of other stuff.

 

[Wyandot Jim]

Thanks again.

The Seller contacted me with the serial number (with one digit replaced by an "x"), which I would have thought would be a requirement.

Without a serial number, a substitution for another gun could be made, and there might be difficulty in proving that.

Or am I overthinking this?

Monty

Well, What everybody has said is spot on.
I have bought several guns from GB and AA. I have not been disapointed in any. Most of the time they are better than expected. Ya just have to know where and how to look in the posted pictures/
Being a Ruger Gatherer I always ask for the FULL S/N. Have Never been turned down.
For me I don't have to pay FFL. or sales tx and will not pay more than $25 USPS shipping.
Best way to buy rare guns that I know of IMHO
Most of the time these sellers can't afford negative feed back. If that happens to many times they are out of business. Not the same for the Gun Show Guy.
Jim

 

[Hangfire]

Have you considered gunlistings.org

 

[picketpin]

I think you may be over thinking it. If I'm buying a #1 that's a shooter and it makes no particular difference what the serial number is, say a 270 "B" made in the 80s. Then it's just like every other #1 "B" in 270.

On the other hand if I'm bidding on a rare #1 that can only be verified as correct and original by calling the factory, then I insist on the complete serial number. Once explained to the seller, I have never been refused.

I Won't buy for the guys that sell with no returns!!! If they were a valid/store front gun shop they would accept returns. So they don't get my money.

I've bought quite a few high dollalr rifles and revolvers off the net with only one problem.

That one didn't cost me any money, just aggravation. Seller had a 5 screw pre model 29 Smith & Wesson in about 80%. He also had it listed it wrong and I won the auction for the opening bid. Somebody must have told him because he refused to ship even though he'd been paid. He sent the Postal MO back. His excuse was he had learned it had been re-barrel and didn't feel right about selling it to me. I responded that the fact it had been re-barreled didn't matter to me. Back and forth. In the end GB revoked his privelages for not completeing the sale.

GunsAmerica and GunsInternational tend to be over priced when it comes to #1s.

RWt

 

[singleshot]

+1 for GB....

I haven't had a problem yet (other than overbidding on a couple). I have since learned to put my max bid in and not check until it's over. If I'm sitting there watching the bidding, I get the "gotta win", itchy finger and overbid just to win.

I bid on wood quality, so lots of pictures is what i'm after. If a posting only has a couple pics, I'll request more of specific sections of the gun (under the forearm where most bench dings happen for example). If I can't get more pics, I generally pass.

I will not bid on gun until I contact the person or establishement by phone. It's purely a calming thing for me, but if I'm going to send someone a grand of my money, I want to talk to them on the phone before I do it. If there is no way of contacting them by phone or if they are excessively slow replying to my initial email to them, then I pass on their auciton.

Having that type of money going to out la-la land with a person that's 2 or 3 days out from responding to an email is unnerving for me, so I won't do it. Nothing against them, I just have my expectations from a seller and if they don't meet it, then I don't bid.

Singleshot

 

[chuck]

A lot of excellent advice, I have used GB a lot in the past I look at their prices subtract about $150.00 and that is what i can buy the gun for where I live, so when i start looking serious I know what to pay.

 

[RobertAnsonHeinlein]

Almost all of those on Gun Broker are honest, reliable guy's who want to keep their excellent sellers ratings. Many are small gun shops. Some are sloppy about their descriptions or take out of focus pictures, ask questions BEFORE you bid. Read the entire listing twice to make sure you're bidding on what you really want.

Bargains are rare. But it's always fun to look.

I've used it to buy particular firearms that probably would have taken months or longer to order or to find in a local gun store. Probably paid 10% or 15% more using Gun Broker.

Be wary, keep your guard up, there are a very few sellers who are less than honest and don't care a rat's behind about customer satisfaction. Or worse.

 

[Montelores]

Thanks again to all.

I appreciate the advice, and I have put the information to work already, although I have not made a purchase.

The spectrum of everyone's experiences is incredibly helpful.

Best to all -

Monty

 

[jerry4s]

Are there any other Gunbroker fees other than the Final Value Fee: (Take the first $50 of your final value and multiply it by 5%. If your item sold for $50 or less this is your Final Value Fee. If your final value was more than $50, take the additional amount over 50 and multiply it by 2.5%.)?

 

[pete44ru]

Hi, all -

Can someone give me a brief explanation about Gunbroker?

What are the pitfalls and problems?

Are there any "traps" to avoid?

Thanks to everyone -

Monty

I've used GB successfully for about a decade now - for both buying & selling.

Here's how it works:

* Register free, including your contact, email & CC info (in case you ever want to sell - there are no buyer fees).

* If buying, enter a bid or click on the BIN (Buy It Now) button if the price is right - even if there are earlier bids, whatever will then be yours).

* If/when successful, winning the item, follow the rules in the email GB will immediate send you regarding contacting the seller, and how the buyer specified payment (visible in the ad prior to bidding).

* If selling, upload multiple clear pics using the GB uploading tool, then give a very detailed item description (read many other successful auction descriptions first to get the hang of it).

* Since there is a GB commission fee for the seller ( a percentage), and small other fees for ad features (bold/color header print, view counter & other "stuff" - they are all listed during the ad creation process), a seller can pick/choose what they want or want to pay for.

* Specify how you would like to be paid (I ALWAYS specify a USPS Money Order or a Certified Check to avoid problems)

* Be sure to calculate & include a buyer's additional shipping cost. ($35-$50 will usually cover most S&H costs)

* Again, if your item gets sold, just follow the GB procedure.

As with any other online purchase, NEVER send cash.

As with any online firearm sale, ALWAYS ask for the buyer's FFL-holder info/FFL copy to be sent with the payment.

When selling a firearm, I've always had the best results via mailing USPS (I have an FFL mail handguns in a USPS Flat Rate Box for $15 postage).

.

 

[armabill]

I lost out on more guns than I bought from GunBroker. Set your max and don't go above it, that way you don't get in a bidding war.

Ask for close up, in focus pics and lots of them. That's the only way that you can decide if you want it or not. Then, ask a lot of questions, sometimes the pics will supply the answers that you seek.

Realize that some people that sell guns don't know much about them and may not be able to give you the answers that you want. I found that even some gunsmiths don't know- there's too many guns in the world to know everything about all of them.

Research is very important to see whether the gun is matching or not. Sometimes gun items are missing and it wouldn't be noticed unless your familiar with the design.

Feed back is important in both the seller and the buyer.

 

[Galaxiedan]

Nobody has mentioned how addicting it can be!

 

[chuck]

Have you considered gunlistings.org

Thanks fer the new web page I DO NOT LIKE GUN BROKER NEW FOREMAT.

 

[armabill]

GunBroker has been ticking people off on the last 2 changes. Why don't they ask and take a consensus of what people want?

They just change it without any regard to consideration of others.