Gp100 hammer somtimes harder to pull back.

[jeffmb]

Just received my first revolver. A new stainless 6" Gp100. Have not taken it to the range yet. One thing I've noticed is when I cock the hammer, sometimes it's slightly harder to pull back than others. It doesn't happen every time, maybe 1 or 2 out of 6. Will this smooth out as the gun breaks in? Should I break it down and do a cleaning?

 

[bcgunworks]

More than likely it's something with how the hand engages the cyl. I bet it will break in. If it doesn't ease up in 50 rounds give Ruger a buzz

 

[wolfee]

It won't hurt to do a by the book field strip. Full details in the instruction manual. This should give you complete access to all the parts that might have some new-gun-gunk in them. If it looks like too much grease or milling debris, give it a spray with Hoppes or similar, dry it real good and lightly lube with your favorite oil and wipe it down.

I am a complete clambrain when it comes to gunsmithing but had no problem with the field strip first time. Just go slow and keep the manual pics handy.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Yup , Clean and lube it and cycle it a bunch of times and go shoot it. I own 5 GP100`s and a couple of them were a little rough like yours at first. They smoothed out in short order.

 

[schloss]

My first thought also was a thorough cleaning. When these things are shipped from the factory, they are full of all kinds of debris. If you haven't stripped it all the way before and cleaned it out, be prepared for some surprises. I've made it a practice to thoroughly clean things before I hit the range for the first time. Same goes for buying used guns. Most people don't have the same standard of cleanliness as I do.

Clean it up and give it another round. I would bet it's just some grit in the way.

 

[jeffmb]

I guess I'll do the disassemble and clean. I'm a little afraid I'll screw something up before I even get a chance to fire it!

 

[Varminterror]

Mark the cylinder notches and - with the gun confirmed empty, or using snap caps - cock and decock the weapon repeatedly, paying close attention to whether it happens predominantly on certain chambers and not others.

A question I'd have - when is it "harder" to pull the hammer? Right off the bat, or somewhere in the hammer stroke?

If it's harder right off the bat, and the test I suggested above yields consistent cylinders, then it's very likely your GP has the same issue that 4 of the new production Ruger DA's I purchased in the last two years have had: The extractor notch may need to be 'touched' just a tad, as those chambers are simply timed too early. The resistance you'd be feeling in that case is due to the cylinder binding against the stop bolt because the indexing pawl is trying to turn the cylinder before the stop has disengaged.

IF THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM, THEN THE INCORRECT THING TO DO IS TO FIRE IT UNTIL IT SMOOTHES OUT!!! Yes, it will "self correct" as your pawl and indexing ratchet mar eachother, BUT, more often, the pawl will be the part that takes the most wear. Since it's properly timed on the other chambers, when the pawl gets 'chewed down' to time properly on the improperly timed chambers, then you'll end up being a bit LATE on the chambers that used to be properly timed. Adjusting the indexing ratchet is the proper fix.

 

[jpickar]

Mark the cylinder notches and - with the gun confirmed empty, or using snap caps - cock and decock the weapon repeatedly, paying close attention to whether it happens predominantly on certain chambers and not others.

A question I'd have - when is it "harder" to pull the hammer? Right off the bat, or somewhere in the hammer stroke?

If it's harder right off the bat, and the test I suggested above yields consistent cylinders, then it's very likely your GP has the same issue that 4 of the new production Ruger DA's I purchased in the last two years have had: The extractor notch may need to be 'touched' just a tad, as those chambers are simply timed too early. The resistance you'd be feeling in that case is due to the cylinder binding against the stop bolt because the indexing pawl is trying to turn the cylinder before the stop has disengaged.

IF THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM, THEN THE INCORRECT THING TO DO IS TO FIRE IT UNTIL IT SMOOTHES OUT!!! Yes, it will "self correct" as your pawl and indexing ratchet mar eachother, BUT, more often, the pawl will be the part that takes the most wear. Since it's properly timed on the other chambers, when the pawl gets 'chewed down' to time properly on the improperly timed chambers, then you'll end up being a bit LATE on the chambers that used to be properly timed. Adjusting the indexing ratchet is the proper fix.

+1
John

 

[jeffmb]

The stiffness starts about midway through the hammer stroke. I disassembled the hammer assembly and didn't see anything in the way of dirt. I wasn't able to get the plunger that holds the trigger assembly pushed in so I don't know if there's dirt in there. I was afraid to force it. Didn't think the symptoms I'm having would be caused by something in the trigger assembly anyway.

 

[22/45 Fan]

OK, a similar but not identical problem. I also have a GP-100 that once in a while (like once in 20 or 30 trigger pulls) runs into a "hard spot" about half way through the double action pull where the pull suddenly gets harder and hits a spike in pull weight. Pulling harder completes the shot but it does upset my aim. It happens before the trigger reaches the "staging" point where the bolt drops. I can't match this with one particular cylinder and it's infrequent enough that I can't predict when it's going to happen.

I've had the gun apart and can't find anything to explain it. Any ideas?

 

[jeffmb]

What I find strange is that I don't notice any change in trigger pull when using DA. I can pull 6 times and they all feel the same. It's cocking the hammer where I sense the difference.

 

[Varminterror]

When you say "midway through the hammer stroke" - What is "midway"?

Is it getting heavy before or after the cylinder stop bolt is dropping away (before is likely that the extractor ratchet needs timing corrected)? Is it heavy only when the cylinder is moving (i.e. cylinder dragging on barrel tennon)? Does it do do it when it's empty, or only when loaded (endshake issue, headspace issue)? Some of the new production Ruger DA's have issues with the indexing pawl 'wedging' against the cylinder crane latch button (mouth-full of a part name there), so if the extractor indexing ratchet isn't machined deep enough, it might pinch the pawl and create drag. It's amazing how only a few thousandths of an inch here or there will totally ruin your weekend.

 

[Varminterror]

The stiffness starts about midway through the hammer stroke. I disassembled the hammer assembly and didn't see anything in the way of dirt. I wasn't able to get the plunger that holds the trigger assembly pushed in so I don't know if there's dirt in there. I was afraid to force it. Didn't think the symptoms I'm having would be caused by something in the trigger assembly anyway.

Moving the hammer moves the cylinder and moves the trigger. Moving the trigger moves parts that allow the cylinder to move. It's all interconnected.

Why can't you depress the plunger to remove the trigger assembly? Are you saying that you don't have a proper screwdriver or other tool to do it, or that you're physically unable to push the trigger guard latch?

 

[jeffmb]

Stiffness seems to start when the hammer engages the cylinder. I wasn't sure how much pressure is required to push the plunger. I didn't want to force it. I would think that if dirt in the trigger assembly was the issue, it would happen on all cylinders as well as DA.

 

[Varminterror]

Any responses to the other questions of mine above? Those are troubleshooting questions that would identify your problem.

Simplest solution is to call Ruger and let them deal with it. I'm personally the type that would fix it on my own, but not everybody is.

 

[98Redline]

If the dragging is related to a particular chamber or chambers, remove the trigger and hammer assemblies, leaving the crane and cylinder in the gun. Lightly turn the cylinder by hand and feel for any dragging while the cylinder revolves.

My SRH had a tooth on the cylinder ratchet that was just a touch higher than the others. It rubbed on the recoil shield in one particular spot. A little judicious stone work on both the high tooth and high spot on the recoil shield and the problem went away.

 

[jeffmb]

Is it getting heavy before or after the cylinder stop bolt is dropping away (before is likely that the extractor ratchet needs timing corrected)?
After

Is it heavy only when the cylinder is moving (i.e. cylinder dragging on barrel tennon)?

Yes
Does it do do it when it's empty, or only when loaded (endshake issue, headspace issue)?
Have not even bought ammo yet so all tests are with the gun empty.

Maybe I'm being too anal. It's a very slight difference. I just figured the hammer pull would always be consistent.

 

[98Redline]

Jeff...try the procedure I mentioned above. A little bit of cylinder drag can feel very heavy in the trigger.

 

[jeffmb]

Jeff...try the procedure I mentioned above. A little bit of cylinder drag can feel very heavy in the trigger.

98Redline,
I had trouble getting the trigger assembly plunger pushed in. I was afraid to
apply too much pressure. I'm going to give it another try soon. Any tips on doing this? BTW, if it is the problem you describe, wouldn't trigger pulls feel inconsistent also? I only notice this issue when I pull back the hammer for SA.