I purchased a GP-100 a couple months ago. Love it. Ran some .357 thru it and have primarily used a significant # of .38 since. I clean it regularly. However I went to load .357's today and they won't fit. It appears the .38's are leaving a deposit. I have someone working on it , however I'm told that this problem will occur with more frequency. This defeats the purpose of my purchase. Anyone else having this problem?
GP-100
- Thread starter OLSKIBM
- Start date
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The 38 is shorter, so when it goes bang it leaves deposits at the case mouth that are where the 357 case needs to be. If you shoot 38's in any 357 chamber this will happen. I chuck a chamber/bore brush in a drill and spin them clean in a few seconds, no biggie.
OLSKIBM":3scrzkxx said:
Welcome to the forum.
This topic is discussed with routine regularity. Since .38's are a little shorter-cased than .357's, the area in the chambers, closest to the mouth of the cases, will build up a little ring of deposited lead and carbon. Then, when chambering .357's, the slightly longer case will contact this ring of deposited material.
Cleaning, especially after using .38 Specials, is your friend! A chamber brush, or a bore brush, with Hoppes #9 or a similar product, will remove this ring.
WAYNO.
GP100man
Buckeye
Age old problem just take a 40 cal. brush chuck it up in ya drill with ya favorite solvent & go at it .
Or if ya reload flare a case as much as possible & drive it home ,scrapin the carbon ring out !
Then load ya 357 to med velocity!
& welcome to The Ruger Forum .Com !!!!!!!!!!!!
Or if ya reload flare a case as much as possible & drive it home ,scrapin the carbon ring out !
Then load ya 357 to med velocity!
& welcome to The Ruger Forum .Com !!!!!!!!!!!!
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
When at the range shoot the 357s first and then the 38s if you want.
When cleaning swab the chambers with bore solvent, let set for about 15 minutes and then clean with a bronze bore brush. Two or three passes should do it, then mop again and run a clean patch through with a jag. If you do this every time you shoot 38s you should have no more problem. A patch with a little oil on it pushed through with a jag can also help prevent the empties from sticking. D
...and welcome to the forum, you got a fine gun there.
...jimbo
When cleaning swab the chambers with bore solvent, let set for about 15 minutes and then clean with a bronze bore brush. Two or three passes should do it, then mop again and run a clean patch through with a jag. If you do this every time you shoot 38s you should have no more problem. A patch with a little oil on it pushed through with a jag can also help prevent the empties from sticking. D
...and welcome to the forum, you got a fine gun there.
...jimbo
WESHOOT2
Hunter
Oiling chamber walls increases bolt head thrust.
Suggest cleaning instead.
Suggest cleaning instead.
rugerfan100
Single-Sixer
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2010
- Messages
- 420
Don't know exactly what you are shooting. Stay away from .38 lead rounds. Go with FMJ. This will help to keep your GP100 a little cleaner in those areas.
roaddog28
Single-Sixer
Hi,
Everybody has covered the bases on carbon rings. I have a GP100 that I bought almost brand new. It only sees 357s. I bought the GP100 because it is built to take 357s all the time. You don't have to be easy on it. Believe me the GP100 will take it. Now, I have a Police Service Six and I do shoot 38 specials and 357s through it. After I go to the range, I soak the cylinder bores with Hoppes #9 and let it soak for up to half an hour. Then I use a bronze bore brush dipped in more Hoppes #9 and make several passes. Then I follow up with a clean patch. I keep doing this until the patch is absolutely clean. Then I take a small flashlight and look inside every cylinder bore to make sure there is no carbon rings. This takes me on average at least a half hour to forty five minutes just cleaning the cylinder bores. Lastly I take some 357 shell casings and insert them in the bores making sure they go all the way in without sticking.
If a person does not want to do this all the time then shoot FMJ 357s and a persons cleaning process will be shorter.
Regards,
roaddog28
Everybody has covered the bases on carbon rings. I have a GP100 that I bought almost brand new. It only sees 357s. I bought the GP100 because it is built to take 357s all the time. You don't have to be easy on it. Believe me the GP100 will take it. Now, I have a Police Service Six and I do shoot 38 specials and 357s through it. After I go to the range, I soak the cylinder bores with Hoppes #9 and let it soak for up to half an hour. Then I use a bronze bore brush dipped in more Hoppes #9 and make several passes. Then I follow up with a clean patch. I keep doing this until the patch is absolutely clean. Then I take a small flashlight and look inside every cylinder bore to make sure there is no carbon rings. This takes me on average at least a half hour to forty five minutes just cleaning the cylinder bores. Lastly I take some 357 shell casings and insert them in the bores making sure they go all the way in without sticking.
If a person does not want to do this all the time then shoot FMJ 357s and a persons cleaning process will be shorter.
Regards,
roaddog28
Pal Val
Buckeye
Reloadng solves a lot of problems. After having to put just too much elbow grease into cleaning up gunk rings in my .357 guns after shooting .38's, I simply started loading .38 loads in .357 mag brass. End of problem!
BTW, two things I don't do - Chuck brushes in drills and running them in the chambers, and oiling the chambers. The first is an invitation to making an ugly scrape mark in a fine gun and the second gets in the way of proper obturation.
BTW, two things I don't do - Chuck brushes in drills and running them in the chambers, and oiling the chambers. The first is an invitation to making an ugly scrape mark in a fine gun and the second gets in the way of proper obturation.
Hugh
Buckeye
I shoot both in my .357's. After each session I clean. Before cleaning I "paint" each chamber in the cylinder liberally with Hoppes #9 and then clean the rest of the revolver. I clean the cylinder last, scrubbing each chamber with my bore brush. I do not "chuck" the brush in a drill/driver, but leave it on the cleaning rod. That setting time of the solvent in the cylinder chambers is enought to allow easy removal of the buildup from the .38 Spl ammunition.
Merlinspop
Bearcat
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
- Messages
- 72
Have to confess you sent me to the dictionary on "obturation", which means" to close or obstruct". Now I need to ask what you mean by oiling a chamber getting in the way of proper closure or obstruction. Not trying to be a smart a$$. I've only had my GP for a year and I'm trying to learn. I like revolvers, I'm considering selling my LCP in favor of either an LCR or an SP.Pal Val":96icth3h said:
B
Pal Val
Buckeye
I'm not an expert of internal ballistics, but this is something I learned a while ago: When the propellant ignites, the gases expand the cartridge against the chamber walls. This creates a seal that makes the chamber allow the gases to expand only in the direction of the barrel. In order for this seal (or obturation) to be consistent, and to avoid the gases to push the brass with force against the rear, the chamber has to be free from lubrication. Immediately after the pressure is released, the crtridge contracts enough o release its grip on the chamber and allow extraction.
I'm sure there are people here who can give a scientific explanation.
In short - chambers should be kept "dry".
I'm sure there are people here who can give a scientific explanation.
In short - chambers should be kept "dry".
jcn1945
Bearcat
Clearly the solution is to buy one or two more revolvers. This way you can shoot either 357s or 38s in the same gun but if you take 3 guns to the range, you only have one third the usual deposits in each gun. This makes it much easier to clean.
I never buggered my guns by doing the electric drill routine. Usually the only time I have to do this is when I buy a used gun with neglected chambers. Then I put a patch over the brush & douse it with Flitz or Montana Bore paste. Keep it moving in and out as it rotates.
I never buggered my guns by doing the electric drill routine. Usually the only time I have to do this is when I buy a used gun with neglected chambers. Then I put a patch over the brush & douse it with Flitz or Montana Bore paste. Keep it moving in and out as it rotates.
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
On the issue of oiling the bore and/or chambers of a gun. I will say this. The Ruger online site has a cleaning video on their double-action revolvers and they suggest a slightly oily patch be run through the bore and chambers after cleaning and before storage.
http://ruger.com/resources/videos.html# (click tech tips)
My own experience with revolvers is that when new there can be a problem with brass sticking in the chambers and being hard to eject. I have used a very light coating of oil in the chambers to reduce this problem.
As a matter of course after cleaning I will put a very light coating of oil in the bore and chambers as well as wiping the gun down with a slightly oily rag to prevent rusting in the very humid Florida environment where I live.
To be sure there is not too much oil in the bore or chambers a dry patch can be run through to remove any excess. Even after a dry patch is run through there will be a slight film of oil left on the metal, enough to protect it. Too much oil in the bore and chambers can be a problem as mentioned. Anything more than a very slight film is too much.
...Jimbo
http://ruger.com/resources/videos.html# (click tech tips)
My own experience with revolvers is that when new there can be a problem with brass sticking in the chambers and being hard to eject. I have used a very light coating of oil in the chambers to reduce this problem.
As a matter of course after cleaning I will put a very light coating of oil in the bore and chambers as well as wiping the gun down with a slightly oily rag to prevent rusting in the very humid Florida environment where I live.
To be sure there is not too much oil in the bore or chambers a dry patch can be run through to remove any excess. Even after a dry patch is run through there will be a slight film of oil left on the metal, enough to protect it. Too much oil in the bore and chambers can be a problem as mentioned. Anything more than a very slight film is too much.
...Jimbo
Rafsob
Single-Sixer
You only need to work on your handgun cleaning skills!!! :wink:
