Give it another shot?

[DGW1949]

I briefly owned an older Springfield GI Model, one of their "green" guns.
As I recall, the very bottom of the frame, just forward of the trigger guard, was marked Made in Brazil in very small fonts. That didn't surprize me none because I've known for years that some of their M1A parts were being made there.

DGW

 

[sousana]

Frankly, if it works as or better than advertised, who cares where its made? Taurs makes a lot of their parts in brazil and assembles here, as does glock. How many of us ow ak's? For a while, a good many berettas are made/assembled in italy, emf, uberti, pietta, llama, astra, hk, browning and to some extent, fn, idiom and many others.

One large cause to Colts demise/bankruptcy was cost, cost of materials, production, and LABOR.

My main IDPA weapon started life as a basic green springfield, 163,742 rounds later she's still going strong and accurate.

 

[revhigh]

I briefly owned an older Springfield GI Model, one of their "green" guns.
As I recall, the very bottom of the frame, just forward of the trigger guard, was marked Made in Brazil in very small fonts. That didn't surprize me none because I've known for years that some of their M1A parts were being made there.

DGW

You mean like this one ? One of my best 1911's.



REV

 

[sousana]

With ALL the weapons on the market, that one is THE sexiest.

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

Rev. I like the magwell touch. That gun is great looking!

 

[DGW1949]

I briefly owned an older Springfield GI Model, one of their "green" guns.
As I recall, the very bottom of the frame, just forward of the trigger guard, was marked Made in Brazil in very small fonts. That didn't surprize me none because I've known for years that some of their M1A parts were being made there.

DGW

You mean like this one ? One of my best 1911's.



REV

Yeah Rev, same color but with "US" marked grips and 1911A1 features.

DGW

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

Is the magwell integral with the straight MHS? I noted no arch.

 

[Chief_10Beers]

My Springfields actually had Geneseo, Il USA stamped on their sides. I never saw made in brazil marks on them anywere.

Oh and I may have my next 1911 picked out already. And a new AR15 to go along with it. (I will explain why in an upcoming thread.) Hint: you may have heard of the term "carrier tilt"

My Loaded has the Geneseo, IL USA roll mark. My S/N starts with MN and from what I was told from SA CS was the Guns are Machined and fitted in the USA from Raw Stock and All Repair work is done in the USA.......................

 

[Rabon]

My Springfields actually had Geneseo, Il USA stamped on their sides. I never saw made in brazil marks on them anywere.

Oh and I may have my next 1911 picked out already. And a new AR15 to go along with it. (I will explain why in an upcoming thread.) Hint: you may have heard of the term "carrier tilt"

My Loaded has the Geneseo, IL USA roll mark. My S/N starts with MN and from what I was told from SA CS was the Guns are Machined and fitted in the USA from Raw Stock and All Repair work is done in the USA.......................

If your serial # starts with NM that information is correct.

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

Yep. It was an NM prefix

 

[Chief_10Beers]

My Springfields actually had Geneseo, Il USA stamped on their sides. I never saw made in brazil marks on them anywere.

Oh and I may have my next 1911 picked out already. And a new AR15 to go along with it. (I will explain why in an upcoming thread.) Hint: you may have heard of the term "carrier tilt"

My Loaded has the Geneseo, IL USA roll mark. My S/N starts with MN and from what I was told from SA CS was the Guns are Machined and fitted in the USA from Raw Stock and All Repair work is done in the USA.......................

If your serial # starts with NM that information is correct.

OOPS, Typo error on my part , NM is correct and is what is on my Loaded......................

 

[cleardatum]

I'm seriously considering giving Ruger another shot! I have the itch to purchase another 1911 and may replace the SR1911 I traded off a while back with a new one. Im taking the grips off first thing and checking for rust though!

i'm quite sure that specimen you owned has completely dissolved by now...

 

[revhigh]

Is the magwell integral with the straight MHS? I noted no arch.

Yup, it's an integrated MSH and mag well by Smith and Alexander. I only use flat msh's and long triggers. Replaced the grips and trigger as well and had a wicked action job put on it. Right around 3 pounds. Nobody but very experienced 1911 shooters touches that gun. It's trigger is just too light. Really just a bunch of parts I bought real cheap in a parts box. Still has the original crappy GI sights. The best trigger of any 1911 I own, even the Gold Cups, and one of my most accurate 1911's.

This just goes to show that ANY 1911 at ANY price range can have all the moons and stars line up perfectly ... Have just the right combination of parts ... To excel ... And be extraordinary .... regardless of price point or model. I've always said that ... But it's far more possible in the 1911 platform than any other platform that I've had experience with. Some guns are just naturally better out of the box ... Simply by the luck of the parts bins.

My green SA MilSpec is one of them. I'll never part with it.

REV

 

[sousana]

Is the magwell integral with the straight MHS? I noted no arch.

Yup, it's an integrated MSH and mag well by Smith and Alexander. I only use flat msh's and long triggers. Replaced the grips and trigger as well and had a wicked action job put on it. Right around 3 pounds. Nobody but very experienced 1911 shooters touches that gun. It's trigger is just too light. Really just a bunch of parts I bought real cheap in a parts box. Still has the original crappy GI sights. The best trigger of any 1911 I own, even the Gold Cups, and one of my most accurate 1911's.

This just goes to show that ANY 1911 at ANY price range can have all the moons and stars line up perfectly ... Have just the right combination of parts ... To excel ... And be extraordinary .... regardless of price point or model. I've always said that ... But it's far more possible in the 1911 platform than any other platform that I've had experience with. Some guns are just naturally better out of the box ... Simply by the luck of the parts bins.

My green SA MilSpec is one of them. I'll never part with it.

REV

Boy, you got dat right pardner. I've got two green springfields that on their baddest day, shoot better than botn my CQB & nighthawk II. The slides cycle like they are on ball bearings.

 

[tophlor]

I would definitely give it another shot. Ruger has made a fine weapon for a reasonable price. Here is what mine did first shot out of box after I wiped it and oiled it. see pic. This was at 35 feet free hand the first shot.

Dead center, 1/8 inch under center line on veritcal

 

[LaneP]

Tophlor,

We can't see your pic because the path is a local drive. Can you post to the web (photobucket or Google, etc). Would like to see your group.

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

Well I did it! But I got something a little different. Took this like new in box gun in trade and have not shot it yet... It appears Unfired and includes everything they come with new.

 

[sousana]

DA, I've had one of those now for about 2.5 months, so far I've put 4,327 rounds through it, mostly a mix of Winchester White Box 230gr FMJ, followed by PMC Starfire 230gr JHP, but I've also put nearly 450 rounds of Speers flying ashtrays, 200gr JHP, and 300 rounds of TZZ Matchgrade ball.

To date, the ONLY malf I've experienced was an extractor jam/hangup when I loaded the one and only TuLa 45acp ball round I had. It's a similar jam I get with my OLD OlyArms AR using Tula steel ammo, it seems the steel doesn't expand as fast as brass and the extractor doesn't get as good a grip as it should thus causing a jam. Funny thing is, my Norinco's have absolutely NO issues with TuLa. In any case, the SIG was tested at 21-31ft freehand in an indoor range, with a temp of 75 on the range.

1. Winchester 230gr ball----an average of 2.213" groupings
2. PMC Starfire 230gr JHP---an average of 1.983" groupings
3. CCI Speer JHP--an average of 2.016" groupings
4. TZZ Matchgrade---an average of 1.782" groupings

I used both the factory magazines, but primarily my stash of Pachmyer sts, Kimpro-Tac and Remington 7 rounders, and functioning was SMOOTH.

I must point out, all ammo was fired after the weapon was initially broke down, cleaned and lubed using Wilson's Ultima-Lube prior to shooting, with NO lube or cleaning after commencment of firing.

Now, after I finished this torture test, I did break the weapon down to it's componant parts, cleaned them completely, inspected each and every part that went into the building of the weapon, then relubed her, and hit the range with my "coffee can" of ammo, which is mostly the rounds from my carry weapons that are changed monthly during winter, and weekly during summer, plus ammo I've taken in trade or ammo found at yard sales/flea markets, aka my "United Nations" of ammo. This was all fired using USGI brown wrapper magazines purchased for 5 bucks each at gunshows still in it's wrapper, plus a mixture of triple K and Promag magazines.

I can say with a certainty, the weapon functioned flawlessly with 1000k rounds through the USGI mags, and malf'd about every 5th round with the other mags. I then took all the triple k and promags and changed the internals to wolff extra power springs and wilson combat internals, and after another 400 rounds, not one malf.

One interesting thing with SIG 1911's, I did have to purchase new IWB and shoulder systems as the weapon was too "fat" to fit in the Don Hume and Galco rigs I currently use for my Safari Arms and Kimber Raptors.

 

[DA_TriggR4Ruger]

AWESOME review. Thank you for taking the time to post it. I hope I don't have any reliability issues from this gun. My Ruger was VERY reliable and my Springfield loaded needed about 300 rounds break in to get it 100%. The slide completely seized on several occasions when I first started shooting the Springer. The good thing with my new Sig is it FEELs like silk when the action is worked. Both in the process racking the slide and cocking the hammer. The trigger pull is between 4 and 4.5 consistantly on the old warn out trigger gauge. Lighter than my Springer and Ruger from the factory. This seems like a promising replacement.

 

[sousana]

The thing with Springfields, I have a total of 259 1911's in my collection so far, the current batch of Springfields, GI, Mil-Spec and loaded all seem to be made to match grade tolerances.

In the past month I've obtained 3 GI models, 2 stainless and one parked, and 3 Mil-Specs, 2 parked and 1 stainless. On all 6, the fit IS AS TIGHT as the custom Nighthawks, Wilson's, Les Baer, RRA, and Turnbull 1911's.

For the Springfields, take them apart, clean and inspect each part, then lube it with whatever you find that works for you, for me, I'm partial to Wilson's Ultima-Lube, as it stays where it's placed, does not attract or collect debris, and no matter how hot the weapon gets, it functions. After that, get some lube, and place it on your rails and simply move the slide back and forth loosening it up a bit to give it that smooth glide.

Rugers are hit and miss sometimes, the two that I have are nice and tight, both cocked and un-cocked, though I've seen some brand new at the range that needed to go back to the factory to correct movement pertaining to barrel lockup.

On a carry 1911, I have ALL of my 1911 rotation's trigger pull set at 5.5lbs. A good, clean crisp 5.5lb pull is not going to detract from the weapon, but will give you enough resistance to not go off by accident, but rather by deliberate pull. One of my quirks though, is I prefer the short trigger on all of my 1911's, the same triggers found on Springfields GI and Mil-Spec models, I guess it's a holdover from my military days, but mainly because I've shot 1911's that way for 44 years now.

Change your springs every 3k rounds, use wolff extra power springs, and for magazines, back in the 80's, when Pachmyer went out of the magazine business, I purchased all their 1911 and BHP inventory as they made the best sts mags available. I also like Kimpro-Tac mags and those 7rd Remington mags. I prefer the rounded and enclosed feed lips on those mags, plus the stiff, good quality springs used. Also, I number each magazine, and in my OCD'ness, each weapon I own has it's own Maintenance log, where I keep track of everything done with that weapon, I also maintain logs on my magazines so that I know when to change out springs. Duty and Comp mags get swapped out q5k rounds while range practice and fun mags get swapped out q10k rounds.

Another item, while I love my Rugers, and this is MY OWN PERSONAL OPINION, to those who like to jump on personal opinions, I, that's I prefer forged uppers and lowers, not cast. Mind you, there is nothing wrong with a finely cast frame, as in Ruger, it's simply that I put 50 rounds daily, and up to 1000 rounds on weekends through my 1911's, and I want a frame that's going to hold up under that strain. And yes, cast frames most likely will, my Taurus PT92 with it's aluminum frame has already held up to 123,937 rounds. As I said, it's MY preference.