first 10/22

45sixgun

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
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50
Picked up my first 10/22 last night. I know nothing about this gun. Can you shoot subsonics with it? Or does it need something with more bang to operate the action? I got the stainless steel version. Was that a mistake? Is there any accuracy difference between the blued and the stainless? Thanks!
 
congrates.....
"subsonics" will cylce and reload for the one of mine I have shot them.
the CCI "Quiet" will NOT cycle bolt.
 
"Subsonic" is just the modern, trendy, "tactical" word for "standard velocity" (as opposed to "high speed").

Your particular 10/22 might or might not function with any particular brand of standard velocity .22 ammo. You'll just have to try them and find out. :wink:
 
Anything with 1000 fps or more should cycle a stock 10/22, maybe less. KIDD offers a charge handle and uncapped guide rod with three springs if you want to keep trying. The 700 or so fps quiets of any brand won't cycle even with the light spring but are FUN and QUIET and actually very accurate IMO in a 10/22 at shorter (20 yd) distances. There is no difference in accuracy between blue and SS with a given barrel length ASSuming you're taking tapered vs tapered or bull/heavy vs bull/heavy barrels.

To be clear, subsonics are not really quiet unless they are "so subsonic" as to be advertised as QUIET.
 
Thanks all for the feedback. GasGuzzler, I want to know more about the KIDD thing you referred to. What you wrote was over my head. What is a charge handle and uncapped guide rod? And what is it for?

I bought a big box of Winchester subs. We tried out the gun this morning. Very nice accuracy. No complaints. I can see how some trigger work will make it a very fine gun. I will say though, that not all of the shots cycled. But most of them did. My kids are entering 4-H shooting this year, so they'll be using it a lot. We may have to get another one. I grab any excuse to get another gun....

I'll see if I can post some paper groups when I get some.
 
The first box of 100 I shot through mine was Winchester and I really did not like them at all. I like CCI or for bulk use Federal with good results.

The charge handle is the handle used to cock the gun. Inside the action it rides on a guide rod. The factory rod is broached or peened or whatever it's called to capture the handle and its return spring on the rod. The Kidd kit I bought (among other items) has a fancy handle (pretty much for looks) plus a "special" guide rod (with a smooth end) and three springs (light, standard, heavy).

The cheapest and one of the most affective mods is to replace the rear group pin (bolt stop pin, solid metal) with a "bolt buffer" style. On mine, the bolt slamming the pin was louder than the ammo (with ear muffs) and seemed to shake the gun around affecting my novice markmanship. I used a Kidd unit there too because I liked its dual layer feature (smaller diameter metal rod inside "rubber type" outer layer) because it seems stronger and loger lasting the the plastic/delrin/acrylic styles sold on eBay.

Trigger work helps a lot too. That can range from small dollar tinkering to high dollar complete drop in units from the aftermarket. I merely installed a Wolff spring kit and shim kit from Michigan Center Outdoors ("lcshively" on eBay), polished the internal parts, installed 0.001" oversize pivot pins, installed a polished stainless magazine release and polished stainless automatic bolt release, then polsihed the trigger return spring plunger.

I may still replace the hammer/sear/disconnector with aftermarket parts later if I get the bug again. By feel I'd say the simple stuff I did took it from 8-9 lbs to probably 3-4 at the most.
 
CCI mini mags are the way to go... then experiment with other brands and types after you 'fix' the factory trigger. No difference in accuracy usually between stainless steel 'barrel' and blue... (I say it this way because keep in mind the receiver is aluminum).... but I prefer stainless steel myself, especially the newer gray target ones.
 
I like the mini-mags specifically in RN or HP either way. Their Stingers, Velocitors, and Quiets all are great too. The MMs are about $0.08 each after state fines here where the bulk Federal (that works good in my 10/22, not as well in my MKIII 22/45) are about $0.045 each when found on sale.
 
Thanks for the tips on ammo and mods (and the explanation I needed GasGuzzler). I'll definitely be looking into tuning this gun up some. I've done reaming and spring replacements on my Ruger revolvers. For .22 ammo I have lots of Federal, some different types of Winchester, and some CCI. I want to try everything available to see what works best. And definitely those mini mags, blume357.
 
Here's the gun, and below it is a paper group from this afternoon. I didn't warm up, and I didn't shoot another group. This is right out of the box, shooting with subsonics. I rested the gun on a table with a shirt under it. The trigger is a bear, especially since I'm spoiled with my lightened Wolff spring revolver triggers. You wonder if the 10/22 is ever going to go off, and how hard you're going to have to pull to do it! I shoot better groups with my .45 Colt NMBH. But I'm sure the 10/22 has better potential.

P1090537-001.JPG


P1090540-001.JPG


P1090542-001.JPG
 
That's a good group for a never fired modern 10/22 with a typical bad trigger. It will wear in after 300 rounds and be better with no mods ASSuming you clean it well (hopefully did already) but you can make it better. The CCI subs at 1020 FPS or so are the only ones I didn't mention above. In short ranges like 20-30 yds, they are great too. I have to say again my 10/22 HATES Winchester. 2 FTE's and 1 FTC out of 100. NEVER another FTanything of ANY brand since after about 1500 more rounds.

MY 10/22 trigger wasn't as bad as you describe although poor. Looks like your description is about my MKIII 22/45RP that was dreadful....so bad I bought a VQ complete kit for the pricey sum of $100 after 30 rounds.
 

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