Dog Walking Etiquette Question

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Nov 5, 2007
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City & State/Province
Dallas, TX
We have two dogs. When they are out for a walk; separately. Blizzard won't bark at other dogs. He pretty much just ignores them. He's 8 1/2 years old, so he walks slower and not as far as Rainy. Rainy, who is going to be 5 in a couple weeks barks at other dogs. Generally we try to walk with her when other dogs aren't around, or go places other dogs aren't.

But sometimes around the neighborhood, I will be walking her, and if she sees a dog, she will bark. Now almost all of the time, the other human walking just stops. Even if their dog isn't barking. I think they want me to walk on by first. However, she barks and moves too much, it isn't very convenient or comfortable. Usually I stop too, and then it becomes a standoff.

My question is, who should move on first? And why do the other dog owners just stop?

This just happened about 20 minutes ago, the other guy was fairly far away, but he stops, turns his back to me and I think he was giving his non barking dog treats to hold his attention. I had to yell over to him. I said: "Sir, we will just wait on you to pass first." He ignored me so I repeated myself, and finally he walked on. He was on the other side of the street and about 1 house away at the time he stopped.

Another time, some woman, who was actually really far away stopped with her dog and just stopped. I was too far to even yell over to her. Finally I realized she was waiting on me. It was more than just weird and I'm not sure why she stopped in the first place. Her dog wasn't barking.

Now, my dog isn't mean at all. She barks, but I think it's because she is scared. And honestly, she is getting better, but she's still pretty loud.
 
I would just continue to walk if your dog just barks once at the other dog, continuous barking or any growling would be a different matter. It also would be a good idea to know what your dog's visual posture says; like recognition, aggression, fear, wanting to play, etc.
 
Thanks, I have tried walking on, but sometimes she gets excited and circles around me and I get tangled up in the leash. This is why I usually stop. Her posture is definitely NOT aggression. I think it's mostly fear really.

Perhaps I am making too big of a deal out of it. I just asked because it happens a lot with different people, and they all stop, not just one or two people stop.
 
It could be fear or just excitement, the body posture (head, tail, ears, etc) can reveal more.
look up dog body posture meanings, many charts and sites that can provide info like this one; dog posture or this one AKC
 
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My Catahoula Leopard dog used to go crazy when he saw other dogs or when they barked at him... It was all I could do to hold him on the leash sometimes.. I decided to try and train him and bought one of those collars that if you press the transmitter it will make the collar beep.. or if need be you can make it vibrate and if all else fails you can shock the dog at different levels... here is the good news... it took just three times with the beep and he was a different dog... and now usually if he starts to get rowdy all I have to do is get him to look at me and say "Collar' and he calms down.... if I put the collar on him I actually don't even have to leash him most times.. he will stay right with me.

I think the collar and transmitter cost about $35. dern Chinese.... I guess they are worth something...
 
My biggest problem with dog walkers is that they seem to thrive on packing new snow on our sidewalks. Why can't they just wait for a couple hours after a snow storm before going for the walk? It's 10x harder to move packed down snow than unpacked. I consider this behavior to be very selfish and rude.

One of these days, I'm going to follow them to see where they live. Then the next time it snows, I'll park nearby and wait for them to head out for their walk. Then I'll pull into their driveway and go up and down it to pack as much of it as I can.

Sometimes it takes a butthead to make people understand that their behavior is not okay.
 
We got our golden retriever when she was 18 months old and she didn't know about a leash. So I trained her to walk on a leash and to sit when other dogs ( or people ) approach. She was timid so sitting was a way to get her socialized.
She's the first dog I've owned that barks, in the house when excited or someone is at the door and outside when excited.
She doesn't bark on the leash, never has. Has jumped backwards when people have tried to pet her when she sat down and let them pass.

Dogs n the ones who have them aren't all the same in how they train there dogs and those dogs don't always listen to the ones who feed them.
 
My brother lives in Maui and has a dog thats half pit and half mastiff. She’s about 80lbs and solid as can be. She’s a sweetheart and loves everybody and was fine with other dogs when she was a pup. Unfortunately she was being a friendly puppy with an adult dog and got bit bad on her her head required stitches. As she got older she would bark at and go after any dog she saw, she’ll also put your arm out of your socket or onto your face trying to get to the other dog. We visit them pretty often and we stay at their house on occasion. When they’re at work I walk her along with my wife. I use a chain choker on her and I know how to use it with commands and snap it. She’s much better with other dogs when I walk her. Much less barking and no crazy pulling. For about 8 years now I tried to convince them to use it but they refuse. They think it’s harmful and the spoil this dog like crazy. about a year ago Pua pulled my brothers arm out of its socket that requires surgery. He still hasn’t gotten it yet. He’s doesn’t get it with the dog either.
longish story but the moral is, I would try a choker and learn how to use it. Your dog is kind of old to teach new tricks but worth a shot. When done properly it isn’t painful to the dog and might make your walks a heck of a lot easier, for everyone. A very small investment.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.

I think the difference between my two dogs is with Blizzard, the older dog, we started taking him to training lessons immediately when we very first brought him home. He was 9 weeks old when we started that.

So he got used to being around other dogs. He soaked up all the attention and just loved going to his “school.” We went once a week for about 8 months.

Then Rainy came along and she didn’t go to school. So she never got the socialization with other dogs.

We rarely leave them at the boarding place. We did last September when we all went to CA. After 4 days, Rainy sort of made herself sick. I think it was being anxious and nerves.

But at least they are together when we leave them overnight like that. But that’s just once a year at most. Mostly because Rainy is my wife’s little baby. 😀

But seriously, thanks for all the comments. I’m glad it doesn’t snow in Dallas.
 
Socialization with other dogs and people at an early age is important, and can help avoid the problems you describe.
Since the dog now has unwanted behavior, there are a few things to try. There are several products that might help, but some are more extreme than others to use.

If you go from lowest stress to the dog and yourself, (nobody wants to be harsh with their pets) to highest, You might want to try a harness first. Several types are available, but you will want one that is comfortable for the dog, and preferably wraps around the dog's back and sides. We use Julius K9 harnesses for our shepherds, and they are both comfortable and secure enough for protection work in Schutzhund. They have a secure D ring to attach your leash to just behind the shoulder, and a suitcase style handle just forward of that you can grab to hold your dog still if needed. Many dogs feel much safer when in a harness, you might have seen the commercials for the "Thunder Shirt" on TV.

If you use a normal flat collar when you walk the dog, replace it with a fur saver, or "choke" collar. Put it on before you go out, and remove it as soon as you get home. This is important for all of the various collars I will describe.
This reinforces the expectation of compliance for the dog. It becomes part of the routine. The "choke" collar is a useful tool, and low impact on the dog. Always slip it over the dogs head with the leash end on the dog's right side. It should look like the letter P, not the letter q, as you stand in front of the dog slipping the leash on. Otherwise it will not release properly. I like to use a harness for my primary control leash, and a shorter "tab" leash on the fur saver collar for corrections. Corrections come as a verbal command of "no" or "no barking!" with a simultaneous sharp "pop" on the tab leash. Repeat as necessary. The harness allows you to control the dog's movement (casting about) while you give corrections with your other hand.

The next level is the prong or "pinch" collar. It works the same as the fur saver, in that it contracts around the dog's neck, (simulating a mother dog's corrections when the dogs are pups) but it is designed with bent prongs that poke into the dog's neck when the collar is popped. These prongs are dull, and won't pierce skin, but are much more unpleasant for the dog. The correction procedure is the same. These collars also relax once there is no pressure on the leash. Once the dog is wise to the pinch collar, most will avoid unwanted behaviors. I know people who use a pinch collar exclusively when they walk their dogs, because they quit pulling. So, also useful to teach heeling. I prefer a harness for the leash and a tab leash on the pinch collar. Be aware, many people don't understand the function of a pinch collar, and consider them cruel. They are not. But you will get dirty looks from some folks, and the occasional rude comment. Ignore them. Or, you can buy a cover that slips over the pinch collar that makes it look like a regular flat collar to a casual observer at a distance.

The last collar is the electric. I don't like them, but some folks swear by them. As others have noted, they have different levels of compulsion, from a sound warning to a vibration warning to adjustable levels of electric shock. You should always start out with the minimum level of compulsion that your dog responds to. For some the sound is enough, once they understand the purpose of the collar. Your verbal command must come before the correction.

The most important thing is to be consistent and fair with the dog and your corrections. Always the same expectations, always the same commands, always the same corrections. This lets your dog know what behavior is permitted and what is not. Dogs are very "black and white" in their understanding of the world. Be confident. Be the leader of your pack.

As to why people stop with their dogs, I have no idea.
 
Watchman, If I could like your above post about 8 times I would.
Some of the routes I run on are public trails and walks, I see dog/owner behavior all over the place.
Some very respectful, well trained and controlled and other dogs where I'd personally suggest the owners
needed the training collars.
 
Watchman,
Yes and thanks. We do actually use a harness. The Ruffwear brand. We’ve tried a few of theirs and they seem to be pretty durable.

(Side note: one time on vacation, we bought a dog toy, it was guaranteed for 10 days 😀)

But anyway, thanks for the input, much appreciated.

The best paragraph of this thread:

The most important thing is to be consistent and fair with the dog and your corrections. Always the same expectations, always the same commands, always the same corrections. This lets your dog know what behavior is permitted and what is not. Dogs are very "black and white" in their understanding of the world. Be confident. Be the leader of your pack.
 
I'm one of those dog people who doesn't always obey leash laws.
With our current golden retriever, Daisy , throwing a ball in the graveyard behind my house trained her to leave and return just like in my fenced yard. We did this before going to a leash. Leash training resulted in walking w/o a leash. Never a problem with people or dogs.
Daisy, is very reluctant to relieve herself while leashed. Her being trained off leash makings traveling much easier.
 
I'm not a dog walker, but I DO walk. I can't tell you how many times I've been accosted by unruly untrained dogs getting walked by irresponsible owners. My main street has a sidewalk on only one side, so MY only option is to walk across someone's lawn. And having to pick up dog feces from MY lawn makes me livid.

To answer the OP's question, if it were me and I WAS walking a dog, I would stop, turn around and walk the other way. If MY dog initiated the bark it would be the respectful thing to do.

I'm not insinuating that anyone on here is a bad dog owner, so don't take my comments personal. It's probably all my fault anyway. I never make eye contact, so maybe I smell bad or its my aura or something. As a delivery boy working my way thru College I used to get bitten all the time.
 
When the dog barks, correct it. Walk with confidence and short leash ( the dog should be a heal position), but do not pull it too hard.
A dog senses your emotion through the leash, that is why you need to show confidence. If you are worrying abbot another dog coming toward you, your dog senses your worry.
 
I'll take a guess at the question. First off I don't have a dog right now and never walked one in "public".
First thought is they stop to evaluate the situation a bit looking to see how agitated your dog is, how big
it is and deciding if you're handling/correcting it well. possibly looking around to see if there's a convenient
alternate route to bypass each other and minimize the unknown result of letting the dogs get close.
They really have no way of knowing any thing about you or your dog.
Maybe they know theirs will try to fight and want to avoid that.
Maybe they're just timid or anti-social people......who knows.
I'm used to having dogs bark at me while running, have seen several people over the years who will
step off to the side, stop and make their dog sit till I pass. See one woman with a big Shepard several
times a week all summer and she never fails to do that, dog is completely calm.
Maybe it's something taught to owners to do by some dog obedience classes?
Now horses and riders on the trail could open another whole conversation!
 
I wish this thread would stop. I’m so sorry I asked.

My question was “why do the other people stop”

I’m not asking about my dog.
The answer is that they stop because they don't have a clue what your dog is going to do and they don't know if you are a responsible dog owner or not. It's better to err on the side of caution than take a chance that your dog might get injured.

Also, my experience is that many (not all) dog owners will defend their dog's behavior and assume that YOUR dog is the problem. In that case, is the other dog owner carrying? You don't know. Best to go the other way and avoid conflict.
 
One of the best dog collars for walking and training is called a "head collar". It controls the head and neck.
Most humane and recommended by a lot of dog breeders, the K9 dog breeder/trainer, that I bought one of my German Shepherds from, insisted on using this type of leash for training. It is really amazing at how well it works.
Here are 2 examples.

Amazon product ASIN B00074L4RW
 
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My biggest problem with dog walkers is that they seem to thrive on packing new snow on our sidewalks. Why can't they just wait for a couple hours after a snow storm before going for the walk? It's 10x harder to move packed down snow than unpacked. I consider this behavior to be very selfish and rude.

One of these days, I'm going to follow them to see where they live. Then the next time it snows, I'll park nearby and wait for them to head out for their walk. Then I'll pull into their driveway and go up and down it to pack as much of it as I can.

Sometimes it takes a butthead to make people understand that their behavior is not okay.
When I lived where it snowed. As soon as there was a small accumulation of snow on the sidewalk I would shovel it off. I always kept ahead of the snow fall and make a little money shoveling other folks sidewalks!
 
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