Do you use copper solvent?
- Thread starter tacotime
- Start date
Donaldjr1969
Blackhawk
While not a dedicated copper solvent, Butch's bore shine works well enough for all but the heaviest amounts of fouling. Problem is, with the ammonia in it, I would not get your nose to close to it! :lol:
Rick Courtright
Hawkeye
Hi,
I've used Hoppe's copper solvent in the past. Couldn't see that it did much better than standard No. 9. But... I AM still using some of the "real" old time, environmentally unfriendly, good smelling stuff. I'm told the "new" No. 9, which I have a bottle of, too, but have yet to open, doesn't do copper as well as the old stuff.
When I do need some extra help, I use some janitorial strength (10%) ammonia (Ace Hardware catalog #10183A.) Take it outside or you'll burn your sinuses, lungs, eyes and probably some other sensitive parts! Wet a patch well, run it thru the barrel and let it sit a couple of minutes. Next patch thru will show much prettier blue than I've ever seen w/ commercial copper solvents. A quart will last about forever and is pretty cheap.
How often? I usually wait until it looks like I'm getting copper all the way across the groove, from land to land. If cleaning w/ regular solvents just leaves a tiny "splash" of copper, I don't worry about it. First shot's probably gonna leave that much...
Cautions: use outside, of course. Make sure the barrel is completely dry of any ammonia after using it (I just carry on my regular cleaning drill w/ another patch and No. 9, and leave the barrel w/ a light oiling) and don't use a brass/bronze brush w/ the ammonia in there unless you're intent on making a smaller caliber brush.
Rick C
I've used Hoppe's copper solvent in the past. Couldn't see that it did much better than standard No. 9. But... I AM still using some of the "real" old time, environmentally unfriendly, good smelling stuff. I'm told the "new" No. 9, which I have a bottle of, too, but have yet to open, doesn't do copper as well as the old stuff.
When I do need some extra help, I use some janitorial strength (10%) ammonia (Ace Hardware catalog #10183A.) Take it outside or you'll burn your sinuses, lungs, eyes and probably some other sensitive parts! Wet a patch well, run it thru the barrel and let it sit a couple of minutes. Next patch thru will show much prettier blue than I've ever seen w/ commercial copper solvents. A quart will last about forever and is pretty cheap.
How often? I usually wait until it looks like I'm getting copper all the way across the groove, from land to land. If cleaning w/ regular solvents just leaves a tiny "splash" of copper, I don't worry about it. First shot's probably gonna leave that much...
Cautions: use outside, of course. Make sure the barrel is completely dry of any ammonia after using it (I just carry on my regular cleaning drill w/ another patch and No. 9, and leave the barrel w/ a light oiling) and don't use a brass/bronze brush w/ the ammonia in there unless you're intent on making a smaller caliber brush.
Rick C
Iron Mike Golf
Blackhawk
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2010
- Messages
- 945
I have used Hoppes #9 regular, Butch's Bore Shine, Pro-Shot Copper Solvent IV, Gunslick Copper-Klenz, Tetra Gun Copper, and JB's Bore Paste.
Plain old Hoppe's is least effective for me. Butch's and Tetra both have ammonia and while effective, are not friendly in the house. Tetra is real thick and clings, so I use that for heavy fouling.
The Pro-Shot and Gunslick solvents do not have ammonia and are easy on the nose. They dry tacky, like dried dishwashing soap. The Pro-Shot will even suds a bit if you vigously scrub with a bore brush. Both of these do dissolve copper (blue on the patches), but work slower than ammonia.
JB's is effective, if messy. I scrub the bore with solvent just to clean out the JB's residue.
I mostly use the non-ammonia for day to day and add in JB's when I am in a hurry at the range. Now this is with a Ruger stainless barrel, so I am not concened about the JB's abrading the bore.
Plain old Hoppe's is least effective for me. Butch's and Tetra both have ammonia and while effective, are not friendly in the house. Tetra is real thick and clings, so I use that for heavy fouling.
The Pro-Shot and Gunslick solvents do not have ammonia and are easy on the nose. They dry tacky, like dried dishwashing soap. The Pro-Shot will even suds a bit if you vigously scrub with a bore brush. Both of these do dissolve copper (blue on the patches), but work slower than ammonia.
JB's is effective, if messy. I scrub the bore with solvent just to clean out the JB's residue.
I mostly use the non-ammonia for day to day and add in JB's when I am in a hurry at the range. Now this is with a Ruger stainless barrel, so I am not concened about the JB's abrading the bore.
Bucks Owin
Hunter
Rclark said:
Same here. I've tried others, the hoopla didn't pan out, back to good ol' #9 :wink:
For stubborn copper fouling in rifles, I just slop plenty in the bore, place muzzle down on a rag overnight. Repeat if necessary until "the green is gone".... 8)
Handguns may get a little JB or in extreme lead cases the choreboy......
(I'm hoping a recent switch to Veral Smith's LBT bullet lube will let me shoot out any lead if it works as advertised... :? )
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
Here is a thread about copper solvents. I thought this comment near the end was interesting.
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=120111
...JImbo
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=120111
Boge said:
...JImbo
WESHOOT2
Hunter
RB 17, an organic-based (horse poop) copper-fouling removal compound.
After cleaning any bore by any method, I then treat the squeaky-clean bore with Tetragun Oil.
After cleaning any bore by any method, I then treat the squeaky-clean bore with Tetragun Oil.
mrbumps
Blackhawk
For copper I use KG-12. Works Great!
Lefty SRH
Blackhawk
I switched to Butche's Bore shine and I have been happy ever since. I've had some rough and heavily fouled barrel from used guns and Buthce's hasn't let me down yet!
It is a little rough on the nose though....
It is a little rough on the nose though....
7p's
Single-Sixer
I use to use Sweet's 7.62 for copper - worked good but was slow acting on "rough" bores. I now use Bore Tech CU++ - it removes copper pretty fast.
Rick Courtright
Hawkeye
Hi,
Just for giggles, here's a link to some tests done by a fellow who's a firm believer in homebrews and simple solutions (his site is where I learned about "janitorial strength" ammonia some years back):
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm
Rick C
Just for giggles, here's a link to some tests done by a fellow who's a firm believer in homebrews and simple solutions (his site is where I learned about "janitorial strength" ammonia some years back):
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm
Rick C
Olsherm
Blackhawk
Got to have a little humor here. I scrape the copper after it builds up really heavy and sell it to the scrap yard. Brings a pretty good price now. HA HA I have better luck selling the lead on the forum here to all the bullet shooters.
Just funning. Hey! i have three large billets of lead each weighs about 85 pounds. They are about 24 inches long,5 ins high,6 inches thick. Anyone got any idea how to carve up in small pieces so I can get it into my small Lee pot??I tried the power saw.(*(*(*%$% May have to resort to a good hatchet?
Just funning. Hey! i have three large billets of lead each weighs about 85 pounds. They are about 24 inches long,5 ins high,6 inches thick. Anyone got any idea how to carve up in small pieces so I can get it into my small Lee pot??I tried the power saw.(*(*(*%$% May have to resort to a good hatchet?
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
That is an interesting problem. I have no clue. :shock: :shock:Olsherm said:
...Jimbo
Rick Courtright
Hawkeye
Olsherm said:
Hi,
Band saw, w/ appropriate respiratory protection?
Or a great big "never cook w/ this one again" pot and a turkey fryer, then ladle out into ingots that will fit your regular pot?
Rick C
AZshooter
Bearcat
For decades, I've used commercial floor stripping ammonia, Butches, Sweets, Copper Cutter, and I'm sure a couple of others, of which names I've long forgotten.
All work to a degree, and all that contain ammonia can damage blue & wood finishes.
A few years ago someone suggested Outer's Foaming Bore Cleaner. The original stuff was made in Finland, then later made under license In the USA. The stuff comes in a little wussy-sized spray can with a snorkel tube. It doesn't have any smell, no taste & no hazardous properties, BUT it DOES an amazing job at removing copper fouling. I have numerous Milsurp Rifles in conditions ranging from neglected battlefield pick-ups, to factory refurbs, to virtually unfired.
Whether "new" or fouled by my shooting, all clean up with nearly no effort by simply filling the bore with the foam, then walking away for about 30 minutes. When a patch is passed down the bore to push out the spent foam, it emerges dark blue, indicating that the copper has been dissolved. I only need to repeat treat badly pitted and worn barrels, otherwise, the foam completely cleans down to bare metal & it won't harm bluing.
And that anemic little 3 oz spray can? It will clean over 30 rifles.
In rare instances where a badly pitted or neglected barrel needs repeat cleaning, a nylon bore brush does a great job. Avoid copper or bronze brushes, since the Foam cleaner will attack the copper in the brush bristles.
I've used all the major copper cleaners, & the Foam is by far the best.
All work to a degree, and all that contain ammonia can damage blue & wood finishes.
A few years ago someone suggested Outer's Foaming Bore Cleaner. The original stuff was made in Finland, then later made under license In the USA. The stuff comes in a little wussy-sized spray can with a snorkel tube. It doesn't have any smell, no taste & no hazardous properties, BUT it DOES an amazing job at removing copper fouling. I have numerous Milsurp Rifles in conditions ranging from neglected battlefield pick-ups, to factory refurbs, to virtually unfired.
Whether "new" or fouled by my shooting, all clean up with nearly no effort by simply filling the bore with the foam, then walking away for about 30 minutes. When a patch is passed down the bore to push out the spent foam, it emerges dark blue, indicating that the copper has been dissolved. I only need to repeat treat badly pitted and worn barrels, otherwise, the foam completely cleans down to bare metal & it won't harm bluing.
And that anemic little 3 oz spray can? It will clean over 30 rifles.
In rare instances where a badly pitted or neglected barrel needs repeat cleaning, a nylon bore brush does a great job. Avoid copper or bronze brushes, since the Foam cleaner will attack the copper in the brush bristles.
I've used all the major copper cleaners, & the Foam is by far the best.
AZshooter
Bearcat
Olsherm said:
I have large bars of lead that were originally buried for use as a grounding rods for some electrical utility use.
I simply hang them over the edge of a low stool & heat the end with a propane torch, I melt it into either the hot lead pot for immediate use, or into an ingot mould to use later.
I've found that trying to cut or hack it with anything is sheer folly.
sebtool
Blackhawk
You could probably use a coarse tooth band saw blade with flood coolant, or a type of blade wax to keep it from building up. Variable pitch 3/5,4/6 or maybe a woodworking blade, as long as the teeth are raked to create blade clearance. Using coolant should keep any fumes/particles from causing any health problems, but it sure couldn't hurt to wear a mask.
The key would be to run the blade slow, at a metal cutting speed to keep the heat down, similar to cutting unheat treated aluminum, which is gummy as heck!
The key would be to run the blade slow, at a metal cutting speed to keep the heat down, similar to cutting unheat treated aluminum, which is gummy as heck!
Bucks Owin
Hunter
Olsherm said:
You're close...An axe powered by a big hammer is my method :shock: (Obviously a double bitted axe won't work! :lol: ) May take a little time beating the back of that axe, but you'll eventually cut off manageable hunks to fit in your pot... :wink:
