Cleaning and oiling my SR9

[thompson 13Bravo]

Let me start by saying im not a noob when it comes to firearms i have owned several handguns over the years and im a field artilleryman in the us army. I just got my SR9 and put 150 rds through it with the only issue being a stovepipe when my wife shot it(i think she was limp wristing it). There are alot of components in the lower reciver that are impossible to get to without taking the trigger mech apart and i dont want to do that. Everything else was easy to clean using M-Pro 7 riflemans kit. My issue was oiling the weapon i put a light coat in the bore, outside the barrel and a drop on each rail and after putting the weapon back together and racking it it feels and sounds a little rough. Am i missing any lube points on this that i dont know about? Any advice would be great thanks. Also this is my first ruger and i love everything about this weapon system from the feel accuracy and the safety. This will be my primary cc weapon for the forseeable future and i plan on looking into more ruger firearms

 

[Clovishound]

I'm certainly no expert. When I clean my SR9c, I put a drop of CLP in all the likely places in the frame. I then use cotton swabs to get into all the spots I can. I usually get some CLP weeping down the external trigger. I wipe this and work the trigger a couple times, wiping in between. Occasionally, I will run a piece of paper between the trigger bar and the frame.

Some suggest spraying liberally with CLP and then using compressed or canned air to blow out the excess. I am thinking about trying this, as it sounds like a neat way to go.

FWIW my trigger was a little gritty when new. It smoothed out tremendously with use. It is very smooth now at about 600 - 700 rounds. I found that soaking the striker blocker button on the underside of the slide with CLP and wiping it off seemed to really make a difference in smoothness. I pay special attention to this part every time I clean now.

 

[freedomcosts]

I do the CLP blast, let it sit a bit, wipe what I can reach with a dry cloth, blow dry.
But add a question, might help OP as well. The new dry synthetic oil, if I'm not mistake you can put some down in the trigger mech. Isn't that right? and I have looked 5 times for dry lube, I get so many websites on google it's really confusing. What's good dry lube for the trigger group? Spray? seems spray would be most effective, long as it doesn't mount up?

 

[KZ_SR]

I spray this, Dupont Teflon Multi Use Lubricant, in my SR9 trigger area, (actually all over the inside) and it works just fine. I buy it at Lowes for $5 a can

 

[cluznar]

Try using Tetra Gun Grease on the rails, works well on my SR9c.

 

[Rei40c]

Lots of good advice here, I just wanted to add the my SR seems to be very forgiving in terms of oiling. I say that because I've run it both "very wet" and "very dry" to use those expressions.

They say most guns like either one or the other. For instance Glocks are known to be a dry gun while the 1911 is considered to be a wet running gun.

With the SR I'm still in the dark as to which is better since it seems to do well in both states.

 

[Rei40c]

Try using Tetra Gun Grease on the rails, works well on my SR9c.

I had some in my hand last trip to the store, I put it back on the shelf not knowing anything about it and never having used grease before. There's some who argue against it but I think it may be a good idea in these summer months. I'mma give it a go and see what happens. So you say rails only? what about where the barrel lug locks in? Seems like a good place as well.

 

[Iron Mike Golf]

I have had an SR9c for about 2 and a half years. Over 3000 rds on it.

1. During break in (first 500 rds or so), the extractor will pull some brass off the cases. Those shavings end up in the striker tunnel. I'd clean the striker and tunnel every 100-200 rounds, until the extractor runs in.

2. I look at the wear spots on the barrel and put a thin coat of Tetra Gun Grease there. It doesn't seem to attract a lot of powder residue. Same thing on the rails (I lube the rail grooves in the slide, cycle by hand without the barrel or recoil spring assembly, wipe off excess).

3. As far as the fire control assembly, I don't want grease or dry lube in there. I want something I can clean completely out with some solvent and a few blasts of air. A couple drops of CLP for me.

I'll do a field strip every couple of range trips. Say 300-400 rounds. I'll run a dry boresnake (I shoot cast) up the mag well and down the bore after each range trip. That takes care of powder residue.

 

[thompson 13Bravo]

Thanks everyone alot of usefull info here

 

[NixieTube]

+1 to everyone who says basic cleanliness is best and advise to be sparing on the lubrication.

I don't have anything constructive to add except that I field strip and blow the gun out with a medium-pressure air compressor from time to time, like 40-50 psi and a rubber nozzle, and I use a Hoppe's #9 Silicone Cloth on the exposed metal surfaces when I feel like making them look pretty. The Hoppe's cloth really makes the stainless slide on an SR9 shine beautifully in the areas it's supposed to shine: the flat, engraved vertical portions (you might actually want to wear gloves!), and it's a nice touch when you want to clean the gun up to present it. It brings out the grain of the metal in the slide and just really makes it look sweet, the reviews are right:

http://www.opticsplanet.com/reviews/reviews-hoppes-silicone-gun-reel-cloth-1218.html

When I really get nitpicky, I use an old toothbrush on the slide serrations and grip checkering, but otherwise I keep the gun as clean as possible with normal disassembly and compressed air. The only thing I do differently is use a little lithium grease (and I mean LITTLE) on the metal parts of the frame rails.

Otherwise internally there's basically good advice here. Less is more with this gun, I think. You don't have to douse it, and you want to keep it from attracting gunk.

Finally in case anyone who owns one hasn't noticed, there are a lot of cross-pins in the gun. I think one additional reason you don't want to fill the thing full of lubricant - in addition to it not being necessary - is that you don't want to encourage them to start moving around all by themselves.

 

[freedomcosts]

http://www.wildbillwholesale.com/remdrilube.html
For the Remington dry lube - good stuff for trigger

 

[axisofoil]

I'm a convert to the cult of Froglube.

My guns clean up (to the point where they are actually CLEAN, no residue etc) from 1,000-rd days with a gentle wipe with a soft cotton cloth and two pulls of a bore-snake (the bore gets fresh froglube each time, everything else gets it every year when I detail strip the guns).

 

[NixieTube]

I'm a convert to the cult of Froglube.

There's a really great video in there somewhere, starring Dennis Hopper and the Sleestacks (badump bump, cymbal crash). :lol:

I am not a chauvinist about Froglube or any other kindoflube as long as it works well and protects well. Looks like a happy cult to me. Onward through the frog!