case for a P345

dwd

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
198
I just bought a P345 and I don't think it will come with a case. What case came with the P345? Was it the same gray molded case that came with the P89, P90, P93, P94, P95 etc.? Or was it a different case?
I have the gray cases for all the rest of my P's but it would be nice to have something different just so I would know at a glance which one is my P345.
 
The 345 most likely came with the larger P-gun case that has the specific space for the mag loader. But really all the cases work.

I get mine on ebay as needed.

Congrates on the 345 and post pics. Is it older DC only unit or safe style?
 
This is more than I would pay.
(10 to 20 bucks is the range I have paid)
Got one with a mag and loader for 19.99 but that was a fluke. Guy had it listed weird so no one else bid.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=225618793

24 bucks min bid, 26 buy now.
 
I picked up the P345 tonight and somebody had engraved a number into the plastic frame. Probably some sort of identification number. How can I remove that? Can I buff it out with some light sandpaper?
Also, with the safety on, if you pull the trigger enough times(usually about 4-5 pulls) the hammer will drop. Is that normal? Tomorrow i will try it with a live round to see if it goes 'BANG" when the hammer drops and the safety is on.
 
dwd said:
Also, with the safety on, if you pull the trigger enough times(usually about 4-5 pulls) the hammer will drop. Is that normal? Tomorrow i will try it with a live round to see if it goes 'BANG" when the hammer drops and the safety is on.

That doesn't sound right at all. When the trigger is pulled back the firing pin safety is disengaged and if the hammer falls it should fire. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I would contact Ruger about this.

On Second thought:
I don't have any experience with the P345 but on my P95 if you ease the slide forward with the safety on the slide doesn't go all the way forward and the hammer stays cocked. By pulling the trigger it could cause the slide to move that last 1/8 of an inch or so to let the hammer drop.

Try and rack the slide with the safety on and let it slam forward on its own. The hammer should be down.
 
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Well, it definitely doesn't fire when the trigger drops and the safety is on. I tried it three times with the chamber loaded and "nothing". Probably like fanning the hammer with the safety on, the blocker keeps it from happening.
It just kinda makes your heart stop when you hear that click of the hammer dropping when the safety is on.
I've never had a pistol do this but I don't play with the trigger that much on a gun. I'm just putting this gun through the paces since I just got it.

keith, the hammer always goes down when I rack the slide with the safety on, just like it's supposed to.
 
Call Ruger and get a case, paperwork, lock etc. for pizza money, shipped to your door.
.

Discuss your trigger/safety experience with a service person and don't screw around.

.
 
Well, Ruger tech says that is normal. If you manipulate the trigger enough it will fall. But it is safe because the firing pin block is in place.
 
Nah, I didn't get a case. I'll just get one off ebay.
Any ideas how to remove those numbers somebody etched into my poly frame?
 
dwd said:
Well, Ruger tech says that is normal. If you manipulate the trigger enough it will fall. But it is safe because the firing pin block is in place.

First, my case was the grey plastic one. Not that it matters much...get whatever you like.

On the hammer topic..yes, mine will do the same, but not from just pulling the trigger several times. When I first got it I noticed, with the safety on, if I squeezed the trigger really hard, the hammer would drop. I did not keep doing that, as I was not sure doing that repeatedly might damage something. A regular trigger pull will not drop the hammer.

And also, as you've been informed and verified with your own test, the gun will still not fire with the safety engaged. Actually, I thought engaging the safety moved the firing pin forward just enough to not be able to contact the hammer.

The "block" is so the pistol will not fire when the magazine is removed.
 
dwd said:
Nah, I didn't get a case. I'll just get one off ebay.
Any ideas how to remove those numbers somebody etched into my poly frame?

Could you use something like a soldering iron and gently brush it over the numbers and kind of melt them out?
If you were careful and used a light touch, you might be able to work it out and not leave much of a scar.
 
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