Can't Get Red Eagle Auto Apart

[heatingman]

A buddy that owns A very large and successful gun shop called me recently to help him take apart a Red Eagle auto. I knew something was up as he ain't no rookie. Anyway, this nice looking early 5 digit gun will not come apart as they normally do. First off the bolt will only retract about 1/2". The takedown lever will only come out about 1/2" and seems stuck or blocked in some way. No reasonable force will move it. If anybody has any ideas he and I would sure appreciate the help. Thanks!

 

[SAJohn]

Obviously you are no rookie if a pro goes to you for help. I just did a trigger job on my old Standard so I am current on these pistols. You must know that when the bolt will only retract about 1/2" it usually means the hammer strut is not correctly seated on the mainspring. Even so, that should not jam the takedown lever.

As a last resort, what I would probably try is to drive out the hammer and sear pins.

 

[heatingman]

John,
Thanks for your reply. I have seen a failure to function many times when the strut is not properly seated. I cannot recall tinkering with one that I could not easily remove the takedown lever and get it properly seated. That is a 1st for me. I thought I would ask if anyone else has ran across it previously, before I tear it all to pieces.
Thanks Again!
Heatingman

 

[rugerguy]

Sometimes it is pretty easy, just an "out of order,removal", OR it was put together "out of order" ( strut out of position) but other times it is something serious like a "staked" rivet moving out of position in the mainspring housing and catching on the 'inside' of the rear of the frame, will NOT allow the housing to "swing out" and clear for removal.............easy enough to diagnose and solve, MOST of the time.................. :wink:

 

[Bullseye57]

Easy fix. The hammer is partially cocked. Take a block of wood and place it on the work bench or floor. Tilt pistol muzzle downwards, squeeze trigger and hold it back, and then strike muzzle forcefully downwards onto the block of wood on the floor or bench to force hammer fully forward. Once this is done you can open up the MS latch and field strip. If at first you don't succeed, do it again harder - don't be shy that's what the wooden block is for.

Punching the sear pivot pin is an option but do the wooden block release method first.

R,
Bullseye

 

[heatingman]

Gentlemen,
I finally got time to go give this gun a 2nd look. It turns out the hammer must have been in midpoint position. A few hard raps on the end of the barrel and it came right apart like I am used to. We sincerely appreciate the tip. Nothing beats experience!
Thanks Again!!!
heatingman

 

[Bullseye57]

Glad to hear this problem is solved. This situation is more common with the Mark III because the hammer doesn't have as much freedom to move forward under gravity as it's predecessors did due to the extra safety components. Using the wooden block method just gives the hammer a little extra force to move fully forward for normal field stripping. Every now and then the older versions get hung-up too so save this method for future use in case you encounter it again.

Go out and enjoy your pistol!

R,
Bullseye